Just finished my V/F code swap. Observations and questions - Diesel Forum

MN_Wild · 10-20-2009, 10:57 PM

Front V codes, very easy bolt in. Lots of info on the web for this swap. Nothing exciting. My only advice is remove the bumper, the 10 minutes you spend removing it could save you your sanity. Its easy and well worth the 10 minutes it takes. Also switch to the newer superduty bump stops. This with the springs and you will have suspension

Almost forgot add a set of energy suspension sway bar bushings while you have it apart, cheap and a usual source for clunking.

Rear F codes, lots of funky info available but here is how it went down for me.
*Got my springs from a 2006 F350 dually long box. Yes dually springs work just fine on the X. I even used the shackles from the duall ysince the yard left them on.
*I did build a "franken-pack" spring utilizing the 2 smallest leafs from the factory X springs added to the F codes. I got a longer center bolt from a Local spring shop. I utilized the F code bottom leaf, I believe it is an overload leaf / antiwrap leaf.
*The rear U bolts I got from the local spring shop as well insert shameless plug for Kremer Spring in Inver Grove Heights, MN (made me custom gr. 8 bolts while I waited). The bolts ended up being about an inch and a half longer than factory.
*I had a birthday so I got some freebies from the family, Billstein Excursion shocks for the rear and F350 shocks for the front. I wanted the custom valved ones Cary T is always talking about but I am not going to complain.
*I also have a helwig I am going to install, still in the box. Any tips or links to an install pictoral?

Impressions are very positive so far. Truck drives like it should have all along. Very soft comfortable ride. Rear sits at 42" and front sits at 40" (I have 285/75/16 tires) The rake is the same as factory. The truck is a few inches higher though, careful if you have a shorter garage door.

Now the question: Steering wheel is a bit canted to the left due to the axle position from the minor lift involved. I know an adjustable track bar will fix it but the words adjustable and MN salty winters really scare me. If I go that route does anyone have a link or a tutoral how to get it dialed in correctly? Brand recommendation? Now the money consious me must ask, can I just use an F350 track bar? Would be dirt cheap at a wrecking yard and would fix my issue correct? Thanks Diesel Stop, couldnt have done it without the help of the members here. Big thanks to Cary T for pushing me in the right directions.