Does the popping and creaking I'm getting under the drivers floor-boards mean the ball joints are shot or just noisy? I get this when I exit a steep driveway or hit a bump while turning. Can I tighten them?
Is replacing them easy or let the dealer do it? What would it cost to do this? This is for a 2001 4x4
Thanks,
WannabePSD
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2001 PSD Excursion 4x4 Limited 7" Superlift Softride lift, 315/75/16 Toyo M/T, Fox shocks, Hellwig rear sway-bar, Air-lift airbags, Autometer Ultra Lite tranny/pyro gauges, DP tuner, Swamps 175/146 single shots, Wicked Wheel, AFE Progard 7, 4" turbo-back exhaust, John Woods tranny w/ 6.0 billet TC, and T/C lock-up switch, Tru-Cool Max tranny cooler. Topped off by Jody's famous tunes.
Audio System: Eclipse 8053 head unit, Arc Audio XXK4050 amp, Arc Audio XXK1500 amp, 6" Morel Integra, JL12w6v2.
I was getting the same pop you are getting for some time.
Took it in to the dealer last year and was told they couldn't duplicate it.
Recently took mine in for some other issues and mentioned the pop again. They told me they found subframe bolt(s) that were loose. Tightened and now I don't get the pop anymore.
I understand it's also very common for the ball joints to wear out in addition. Haven't had to go there yet.
Your balljoint would have to be really shot to get a clunk when you turn and you would see tire wear.If you think it's a balljoint jack up the truck and grab the tire at the top and bottom and pull on it and see if it moves,then try pulling on it at the 9 and 3 o'clock position and do the same (pull back and forth).See what you get. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif[/img]
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2000 Excursion Limited 4X4, 5" Hypermax Exhaust,TS 4 Bank chip(D/P Tuner- stock,Tow,Econo,Race) A Pillar DiPricol Gauges (white face)Hellwig swaybar,Skyjacker stablizer,AFe Stage2, Slotted&cross drilled rotors,BB Turbo,Pioneer AVIC D2 <font color="RED"> *** ALL GAVE SOME, SOME GAVE ALL(FDNY 9/11/01)***
I really don't know. (shame on me)
I've been under the truck numerous times looking for loose nuts/bolts ever since I was getting the popping, but never saw anything.
The dealer came back and said they found at least one sub-frame bolt 3/4 backed off.
Cost me $80 for them to tighten bolts! Oh well. I'm going to investigate this a little further so I can do it myself if there is a next time. I'll try to remember to post to inform what I found out.
Whatever they did really worked. No more popping on full turns, especially when turning up a bank - although I was getting it all the time in just about every condition.
Combined with new front brake pads and turned rotors, my Ex. feels like a brand new truck again!
I'll try and crawl under there tomorrow and look around...see what I find. If you do find what the dealer tightened...let me know. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/warmsmile.gif[/img]
WannabePSD
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2001 PSD Excursion 4x4 Limited 7" Superlift Softride lift, 315/75/16 Toyo M/T, Fox shocks, Hellwig rear sway-bar, Air-lift airbags, Autometer Ultra Lite tranny/pyro gauges, DP tuner, Swamps 175/146 single shots, Wicked Wheel, AFE Progard 7, 4" turbo-back exhaust, John Woods tranny w/ 6.0 billet TC, and T/C lock-up switch, Tru-Cool Max tranny cooler. Topped off by Jody's famous tunes.
Audio System: Eclipse 8053 head unit, Arc Audio XXK4050 amp, Arc Audio XXK1500 amp, 6" Morel Integra, JL12w6v2.
I bet they mean the bolts for the body mounts. They look like hockey pucks stacked on end and flex with the body. They seem to go bad and loosen up. I still seem to be ok but this is a very common problem. I guess tightening them works but in most cases you need to buy a new body mount. There are quite a few under there, maybe 10 or more.
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Some people are like Slinkys. They are good for nothing but still put a smile on your face when you push them down a flight of stairs. 2003 X Limited Ultimate, Mineral Grey Metalic. DVD, Limited Slip, Badged, Cab Lights, Magnaflow, Thule Rack, 3" Lift, T Prodigy, Air Bags, Edge Programer, XM Radio, Extreme sound system. 315/70/17s on AR Chrome/Aluminium.http://community.webshots.com/user/stellinm
The body mount under the drivers feet is easy to tighten. Remove the kick panel, pull back the carpet. You will see a oblong rubber plug. Under this is the bolt. Tighten to 80 ftlbs, see if your clunk goes away.
If this does not work you can replace the bolt and lower insulator in about 10 minutes. You don't have to replace the body puck. The clunk results from the threads in the lower insulator wearing out from the constant body flex if the bolt is not tight.
BigM ,you said that Ford snugged up a sub frame bolt did you ever locate that bolt(s). Because I just started to experience the same noise. I'll be crawling under the X today to look for a problem. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img]Thanks FJF
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2000 Excursion Limited 4X4, 5" Hypermax Exhaust,TS 4 Bank chip(D/P Tuner- stock,Tow,Econo,Race) A Pillar DiPricol Gauges (white face)Hellwig swaybar,Skyjacker stablizer,AFe Stage2, Slotted&cross drilled rotors,BB Turbo,Pioneer AVIC D2 <font color="RED"> *** ALL GAVE SOME, SOME GAVE ALL(FDNY 9/11/01)***
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