My next door neighbor's 2000 Excursions' door locks (all) sometimes work (only one side at times) for the last year and he asked me to look into it.
Not having a manual, I noticed something odd, when switch is activated (either open or, lock) you can see the lock try to move, and also hear the soleniods try to work and sound weak. I find it hard to beleive all failed. Is there a relay that might be weak somewhere?
The dealer quoted him $275/door to investigate the problem, not including parts! He has me looking to start replacing the solenoids (actuators)one at time, I'm not comfortable just throwing parts at it.
Does the drivers door controll all? Is it possible the drivers door is the weak causing high power draw and not allowing the others to work?
Anybody else with similar problems? [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img]
__________________
2001 Excursion 7.3 PSD, 2WD, Limited Edition, 3.73 gears, 230,000 miles, Hpypertech Stage 3, Boost,Trans Temp and EGT, 22+ MPG, Love this SUV!
I HAVE THE EXACT SAME PROBLEM ON MY NEW TO ME 2000 X I DONT SEE HOW ALL WOULD GO OUT. MOST OF THE TIME THE DRIVERS WORKS BUT NO OTHERS. IT SURE GETS OLD AFTER ABOUT A DAY I'LL CHECKUP ON THE POST L8R [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img]
__________________
2000 psd excursion 06 front end w/hid's 8" lift 37-13.5-22 kumho's w/mazzi hulks ,dual fox's w/res up front singles in back, amp research running boards, super chip 1705, gauges,afe stage 2 intake,complete 100 watt police siren setup,leslie rs3l real deal train horn, "hate to be you when you cut me off" w/viair on board air 4" turbo back no cat no muffler = neighbors love me
I had the same issue it is failed thermistors inside the motors of the actuators, I had three fail within 24hours they had the same issue weak and not working. you can pull them out of the doors and pop them open and solder a jumper wire inside the motors to fix the issue. I found the actuators challenging to remove most here on these forums say they are easy I disagree with that however they are certainly not impossible for the amature mechanic, I did the first one in 2 hours and the second and third in one hour each.
WOW
My 2000 back passenger door just stopped working also. I will keep this post marked for when it gets warmer. At least its on the drivers side so I just have to reach in while getting into the truck.
__________________
2000 4x4 PSD Limited Excursion The Beast
DPTuner 40Tow, 60Tow, 80Econo, BTS Valve Body, AIS Intake, AIH Delete, MBRP Stainless 3.5" DP and 4" Exhaust, 5" All spring Edge lift, Rize Traction Bars, CV joint driveshaft, 315 BFG ATs on Alcoa wheels, Warn Transformer with multi mount winch power front and back, 1000 watt power inverter, VCR, 4.10 gears and ARB Lockers Front and Back
I changed them all out myself....for me it was about an hour per door...."BUT" i did it the hard way.....
"IF" you check back on this website, you'll see some of the guys left instructions on how to do it in 15 minutes per door....
Parts are about $38/ per solenoid @ local stealership....
I bought those so-called 'universal' ones.....too much mickeymousing around..... I just snapped the new ones [ford's] in and everything has been fine since they redesigned the part.....
I installed these Door Lock Actuators from part express. They piggy back onto your current actuators, and so far, the eight that I have installed are doing great with no failures.
__________________
New addition:
2006 f-550 service body with a 20 foot stellar crane.
Arrest me red 2006 F-250 6.0 Even more loaded
Black 2000 F-250 4X4 PSD Lariat, loaded.
Green 2001 4x4 Excursion Limited with PSD, loaded
White 2004 F-250XL, it is loaded with just a LS. I can't find the other options.:P
Finally got around to installing new lock actuators on 2 of the five doors on neighbors Excursion, and with the help of the procedure provided by one of the members, after doing the driver door (about35+ minutes) the second door took a total of 15 minutes.
New actuator is by far, a better design. He is now a happy camper!
How too???
The last time I removed a door panel they had screws on panel to remove.
How do you remove the door panels on our "X"'s?
I have the same lock problem.
Thanks
Ken
__________________
2006 Lariat Chrome Edtion Red F350 CC 4X4 Dually w/4:10 Gears Born 04/26/06 w/ color matching speedliner, PCM Reprogramed to Level "L",@ 24,535 miles AMSOIL Front to Back, AMSOIL By Pass Filter BMK-11, Amsoil Coolant Nitrogen in all 6 tires @ 75 PSI W/ 34.2 x 102" wide Coachman Royal TT.
Gone but not forgotten 2001 “X” 7 years / 218K w7.3
There are two screws that must removed, one is behind the light lense cover, and the other is behind the swtich panel. The switch is held in with snaps, and simply pry it and, remove the screws. If doing a front door, besure and remove the verticle cover (it too is held in with snap clips)
Once the screws are removed, lift the panel up, and out of the way.
__________________
2006 Lariat Chrome Edtion Red F350 CC 4X4 Dually w/4:10 Gears Born 04/26/06 w/ color matching speedliner, PCM Reprogramed to Level "L",@ 24,535 miles AMSOIL Front to Back, AMSOIL By Pass Filter BMK-11, Amsoil Coolant Nitrogen in all 6 tires @ 75 PSI W/ 34.2 x 102" wide Coachman Royal TT.
Gone but not forgotten 2001 “X” 7 years / 218K w7.3
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.