We just realized that are rear hatch hasn't been locking with the electric locks. I stuck the ignition key in the hole and can't get the key to lock it. The ignition key only goes to about 10 o'clock or 2 o'clock but no further. I can feel the actuator thumping when holding my hand on the hatch while somebody runs the electric locks. Do I need to lube something up or what?
Thanks
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95 F250 4x4 SC, Alloy wheels, Catectomy, 3.55's, E4OD, Dark Green, Ground effects package, Warn manual hubs, 12k mod, Redline Oil throughout, Big Hayden cooler, Factory AIC, Fuel shimmed, TYMAR air filter & HX mod, Ceramic Hypermax dp BD 5/95, TEE5 code, Timbrens, SCMT, boost, tranny, and pyro in Rocky's overhead pod
90 F350 SRW with Loral Sprayer setup, 38.5" Super Swampers, 4wd, 5 spd, 7.3 IDI, 93 factory turbo motor with Luk clutch, homemade air intake, 3" "99" downpipe, 3.5" straight pipe exhaust
Autometer boost, pyro
My recommendation would be to remove the interior trim pieces along the bottom of the Lift Gate and along the sides. Under these pieces there should be access to the lock cylinder and the cables going to the latches as well as the remote actuator. Look at what is going on when the key is turned. If there is any type of bent cable (Usually a sharp bend constitutes a kink) this may be the cause or there may be a rod that has fallen off os is twisted where it joins the lock cylinder or remote actuator. Look for any interferences to the lock cylinder that would prevent it from fully rotating. From the sounds of what you are describing it, seems to me that it is a problem with interference of some sort not a "needs some lube" type of issue.
Hope this helps.
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2002 PSD Excursion XLT Premium 4X4 (<font color="green">Aspen Green</font>)
Trailer Tow Mirrors, Rear Sensing, Adjustable Pedals, 6Disc CD, Aftermarket Rear Seat Entertainment System (VHS, Wireless, 7" Screen), OBX sticker, Molded Front Mud Flaps, Helwig Rear Roll Bar
The same thing happened on my 2000 Excursion. I cleaned a lubricated everything and it worked for a while but soon retuned to not locking. I finally replaced the entire locking mechanism, not the lock. The parts cost about $100 from Ford and took me about an hour to install with a broken shoulder so was I basically working one handed. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif[/img]
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00 Excursion Limited, Detroit Locker, (rear), X code front springs & f-350 rear blocks, Edlebrock Shocks, Firestone Air Bags, (rear), Helweg Anti-Sway Bars, (front & rear), Rancho Steering Stabilizer, BFG A/T 285's.
As far as the tumbler is concerned. It needs liquide graphite and then just keep moving the key back and forth. Keep squirting in the graphite. This may take a while but it will free up and work as designed. The key doesn't get used much so the tumbler seizes and it is also a trap for the dust that that gets sucked on from the rear design.
I try and use the key a least once a week and use the liquide graphite evey couple of months. I solved mine this way. Hope it works for you. Remmember it may take a while so just keep going back and forth.
DUNC
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Y2K X Ltd 4X4 PSD.Estate Green all options. DI 4 POS CHIP 50-75-100-140HP/K&N,Ram air,Regulated turbo vacume,Zoodad,Banks s/s 4" dwn pipe/exhaust,5" tip. Pre pump,tank mod, 203Thermostat and billet housing, Racor 460 filter-heater-water sensor,coolant filter,shift kit,exhaust brake, T/Q lock up,4X4 Front wheel lockout,High output alt with low rmp curve for max amps,Hellwig sway bar,4X2 Hatch Struts,Air horns,Viar 450 compressor,cab/Runningboard lights(Euro flash),Monroe Reflex,V Springs front,F springs modified rear,PowerSlot Cyro F/R, Hawk LTS F/R,Dueler Revo A/T 285/75/16,PSD badging, Isspro guages.C.B ,APCM, Locking Fuel Cap, Mud Guards, Door Edge, Bug Deflector, Window vents, Custom made Excursion leather jacket, General Coach Y2K 30' Citation T/T, Reese Dual-Cam Sway Bar, Reese Brakeman Digital control,Running light momentary switch.Back-up Camera.
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