I have a question about my Excursion’s front wheel hub bearing. I need some expert advice with this problem? I have replaced the right front wheel hub bearing 3 times in less than three weeks. I purchased it from Car Quest, their part number BGS 515020. It has National stamped on it. They say it is failing because of a poor install or something else in the front end which is causing the failure. I have replaced this part using the guidelines in this attached tech tip http://www.thedieselstop.com/content...ll%20Joint%20I . Can anyone offer any advice or solution to this problem?
Is it just the needle bearings you are changing or is it the whole hub that you are changing? 3 times in 3 weeks is very costly, these hubs can run from $170-$450 each depending on where you purchase them.
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00 "X" Limited 7.3L PSD 4X4, 4" Turbo Back Exhaust w/BTM, Edge Juice W/Attitude, EVO, Pro Comp Ultra Lite Trans Temp Gauge, Pyro, and Boost, Pro Comp 4"Lift, 35's w/Welds 16.5X10, Exhaust Brake, Airaid Cold Intake, Clear Headlights and Turn signals, Billet Overlay Grill, Centric Slotted Rotors, Zoodad, IC Wrap Delete, CCV Mod, WW, Nathan K3LA Horns w/5gal tank, 6.0 Trans cooler,.
I have a 2000 Excursion LTD 4x4 Diesel and you are correct the hubs are expensive to change. I have changed all the axle seals and it still fails I hope someone has a solution to this problem?
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2000 4x4 PSD Limited Excursion The Beast
DPTuner 40Tow, 60Tow, 80Econo, BTS Valve Body, AIS Intake, AIH Delete, MBRP Stainless 3.5" DP and 4" Exhaust, 5" All spring Edge lift, Rize Traction Bars, CV joint driveshaft, 315 BFG ATs on Alcoa wheels, Warn Transformer with multi mount winch power front and back, 1000 watt power inverter, VCR, 4.10 gears and ARB Lockers Front and Back
The whole wheel hub is so loose that it binds to the disk brake assembly. If you hoisted the truck you can move the wheel by hand in all directions, the axle shaft moves etc. Its is unbelievable, I can't even drive it!
Can't figure out what part number this is for. I assume you are replaceing the whole unit bearing. Hard to believe 3 have gone bad. Wow. A signature would be helpful. There is nothing on the front end that could cause this. Just steering linkages. Are you driving in 4x4?
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2000 4x4 PSD Limited Excursion The Beast
DPTuner 40Tow, 60Tow, 80Econo, BTS Valve Body, AIS Intake, AIH Delete, MBRP Stainless 3.5" DP and 4" Exhaust, 5" All spring Edge lift, Rize Traction Bars, CV joint driveshaft, 315 BFG ATs on Alcoa wheels, Warn Transformer with multi mount winch power front and back, 1000 watt power inverter, VCR, 4.10 gears and ARB Lockers Front and Back
This part number is for a whole front wheel bearing assembly. I agree that all there is is a stearing linkage and a front right asle shaft. This truck is the same as yours a 2000 4x4 PSD Limited Excursion but completely stock.
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2000 4x4 PSD Limited Excursion The Beast
DPTuner 40Tow, 60Tow, 80Econo, BTS Valve Body, AIS Intake, AIH Delete, MBRP Stainless 3.5" DP and 4" Exhaust, 5" All spring Edge lift, Rize Traction Bars, CV joint driveshaft, 315 BFG ATs on Alcoa wheels, Warn Transformer with multi mount winch power front and back, 1000 watt power inverter, VCR, 4.10 gears and ARB Lockers Front and Back
Is it possible if the front axle is not completely seated into the knuckle seat would cause this? Is the wheel hub failing because it has a defect or not robust enough? This particular hub is an import item for Car Quest and they still say it is failing because of how it is being installed?
I had the driver side hub assembly replaced in the X at 165K miles. Bought the hub at a parts store run by two old guys who basicly live in the parts store if that's what you call the madness for $200. 4,500 miles later the steering wheel started to pull hard and found a small fire on the calliper bracket on the driver side. Upon inspection it was clear that the wheel was not straight from top to bottom.
Had AAA tow the X to my mechanic who I've used for years with excellent luck. When he's too busy to wrench on my stuff I've brought stuff elsewere only to have to bring it back to him to fix it right. The large nut on the end of the hub came loose and caused the rotor to rub against the caliper bracket. The rotor was turned, new seals were installed, the hub was replaced for free, and I payed cost on the loaded caliper with bracket, $53. The X has about 5,500 miles on the new hub and so far so good.
The parts guy didn't say he'd never seen it happen before and did not a couple weeks prior to my misshap they switched brands. The dually had one put on the driver side prior to that and that ones been ok.
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99(4/99)F350 PSD 4X4 crew cab long bed dually lariat isspro triple pod air bags with compressor
99(6/99)F250 PSD 4X4 X-cab short bed xlt 5in str8 piped air bags autometer ultra light triple pod bought 8/15/01 w/40k miles first diesel
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65 Mustang 289 V8 4brl
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I have since spoken to others about this problem and one has also recommended that I turn the rotor because it could be warped. This could cause a vibration or enough of a wobble to destroy the bearing hub over time. I have just taken it all apart and now I’m in the process of putting on new seals, hub and will turn the rotor. Hope that this solves the problem because Car Quest says that this is the last replacement I will get from them?
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