Steering Problem on '01 X

[DPetersen]

I bought the X used 5 months ago, the steering didn't seem right so I had the steering box rebuilt, but it still seems to wander no matter what kind of surface I am driving on. Is there something that I am overlooking?

[Hoowasat]

The Excursion's common wandering ailment originates in the rear suspension. Basically, it's suffering from spring-wrap, but when the spring-wrap is unequal side-to-side, the rear axle gets out of square with the X's centerline, thus steering the X without notice. The link is a long read, but worthy ...

http://www.fordexcursions.com/forums...?threadid=2417

[DPetersen]

Hoowasat, thanks for the info. I'll contact Landyot for info on ordering parts. thanks again

[ScaldedDog]

I think there are other things that can cause it, too. On our 01, I replaced the worthless stock steering stabilizer with a decent one (Rancho 5406, IIRC), tightened the steering box a little (takes 2 minutes), installed a Hellwig sway bar in the back, and made sure the toe was set correctly. Worked great!

Mark

[fordmastertech]

There is a TSB 01-3-2 for checking the ball joints for being too tight and to check the steering box. Had to do it to mine before I bought it, The previous owner was complaining about it. I drives like a dream now but I need shocks in the spring. Waiting for the buy 3 get 1 free Rancho deal if it comes out again on the RS9000X.

FORD: 1999-2001 SUPER DUTY F SERIES
2000-2001 EXCURSION


ISSUE:
Some vehicles may exhibit stiff steering, wandering, or poor returnability after turns. This may be caused by alignment, steering gear meshload, or a lower knuckle ball joint that becomes sticky and degrades steering returnability.

ACTION:
Check alignment and check steering gear meshload or install greaseable ball joint and lube every 8000 kilometers (5000 miles) or at every oil change (whichever comes first). Refer to the following Service Procedure for details.

SERVICE PROCEDURE

Verify stiff steering, wandering, or poor returnability after turns. Proceed as follows:

Check alignment and correct if not to specification.
NOTE: USE 0.75 DEGREE OR LESS CASTER SLUGS TO CHANGE THE CROSS-CASTER. IF THE CASTER REQUIRES MORE THAN A 0.75 DEGREE CHANGE YOU MUST USE CASTER WEDGES THAT ARE INSERTED BETWEEN THE AXLE AND LEAF SPRINGS. USE IDENTICAL CASTER WEDGES ON BOTH SIDES TO CHANGE CASTER.



If alignment corrects the condition, return vehicle to customer.
If alignment does not resolve condition, continue to Step 2 (steering knuckle torque to turn test).
Perform the following steering knuckle torque to turn test:
Place vehicle on alignment rack with front wheels on low friction plates. Wheels must be pointing straight forward.
Remove tie rod from steering knuckle. Install a nut and bolt into the steering arm hole and tighten.
NOTE: WHEELS MUST BE LOADED AND ON PROPERLY OPERATING TURN PLATES TO PROPERLY CHECK TURNING TORQUE.



Use a click-style torque wrench and position it on the bolt head so that the handle is pointing toward the front of the vehicle.
Set the wrench at 135 N-m (100 lb-ft).
Pull on the torque wrench so that you are turning the front wheel outboard.
If the knuckles turn without the wrench clicking, then ball joint turning torque is acceptable. Return vehicle to customer.
If the wrench clicks before the wheel breaks free and begins to turn, then the torque to turn the knuckle is too high. Continue by replacing ball joints (Step 3).
Perform this procedure on both front wheels.
If the torque wrench clicks before the wheel breaks free and begins to turn, then replace the lower ball joint with the greaseable Lower Ball Joint (1C3Z-3050-AB) and replace the upper with the current replacement part (F6TZ-3049-AA). Refer to the appropriate model/year Workshop Manual for removal and installation procedures.
Follow this procedure to torque the ball joints after knuckle installation.

Torque lower ball socket nut to 47 N-m (35 lb-ft).
Torque upper ball socket nut to 95 N-m (70 lb-ft), then advance nut to the next slot to line up with hole and install cotter pin.
Retorque lower ball socket nut to 190/217 N-m (140/160 lb-ft).
NOTE: THE NEW GREASEABLE LOWER BALL JOINT MUST BE LUBRICATED AFTER INSTALLATION.



SERVICE SCHEDULE FOR GREASEABLE LOWER BALL JOINT

If a greaseable lower ball joint is installed, it must be serviced per the below schedule:

At every oil change or at 8000 kilometer (5000 mile) intervals (whichever comes first)
The recommended lubricants are:

Premium Long Life Grease (XG-1-C, or equivalent meeting Ford Specification ESA-M1C75-B)
Hi-Temp Wheel Bearing Grease (E8TZ-19590-A, or equivalent meeting Ford Specification ESA-M1C198-A)
Measure steering gear meshload. Reference the appropriate Workshop Manual for the procedure for measuring meshload.
If it is less than 0.45 N-m (4 lb-in), reset to 0.56-0.68 N-m (5-6 lb-in).
NOTE: THE MESHLOAD MEASUREMENT IS THE AMOUNT OF THE TORQUE INCREASE THAT THE TORQUE WRENCH SHOWS AS THE STEERING WHEEL IS ROTATED THROUGH THE CENTER OF ITS TRAVEL (I.E., IF THE STEERING WHEEL TORQUE TO ROTATE IS MEASURED AT 0.45 N-m (4 LB-IN) ON THE ENDS, AND THEN IT MEASURES 1.13 N-m (10 LB-IN) AS IT IS ROTATED THROUGH THE CENTER, MESHLOAD = 0.68 N-m (6 LB-IN). MESHLOAD = CENTER - END (1.13 N-m - 0.45 N-m = 0.68 N-m OR 10 LB-IN - 4 LB-IN = 6 LB-IN OF MESHLOAD).



Once meshload is OK, procedure is complete. Return vehicle to customer.

PART NUMBER PART NAME
1C3Z-3050-AB Ball Joint - Lower (Greaseable Type)
F6TZ-3049-AA Ball Joint - Upper
XG-1-C Premium Long Life Grease
E8TZ-19590-A Hi-Temp Wheel Bearing Grease

[Hoowasat]

All I know is this is one of two suspension "mods" I've done. I don't consider replacing shock absorbers to be a mod (I did install Rancho 9000s), and the Hellwig swaybar was the other mod. I've had no front end work done at all in the 2 years I've owned my '01 Ltd. After the rods were installed, the wandering stopped, and the ride quality of the rear suspension became a lot smoother ... no more rear-end jumpiness.

[towrig]

Hey FordMastertech,
This old thread is all I could find for adjusting steering gear meshload on my 2001 4x4 Ex. I see you were able to post up a TSB from Ford. I would like to check my meshload before I start tightening anything. Can you post up Section 211-00 from the Workshop Manual? This is the section TSB 03-19-10 called out for checking it.
Thanks. And thanks to DaveBey for compiling these TSB's in one spot.

OK. After further searching during lunch, I found several threads that mostly suggest the "turn it until it feels right" method, which I have done a bit. But I am afraid to go to far and get the "bye-bye steering box" as one member put it. I think it would be interesting to read the recommended Ford method for this. Then I could adjust it by feel and check it against the actual spec.

[FamilyRide]

[ QUOTE ]
I think it would be interesting to read the recommended Ford method for this.

[/ QUOTE ]

-Hold vehicle in bay, out of customer sight for 2.25 hours. Hold steering wheel with right hand, observe front drivers wheel while attempting to turn steering wheel. If movement is detected in front wheels, add comment to customer ticket, "steering lash tested within spec. Issue closed". If 3.1 hours have been exceeded, flag .25 hours to Ford warranty, otherwise charge dealer labor of 3.5 hours to customer.

This book is about 2 years old so it may have changed. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif[/img]

[fordmastertech]

NOTE: The engine should not be running.

Turn the steering wheel from right lock to left lock at least once.

Remove the driver air bag.
Remove the cotter pin from the pitman arm.
Remove the castellated nut.

Separate the drag link.
Use the Pitman Arm Puller to separate the steering sector shaft arm drag link.

Rotate the steering wheel to the left stop and then rotate the steering wheel back approximately 45 degrees.
NOTE: The peak preload torque must be within 0.23-1.13 Nm (2-10 lb-in) or a new steering gear must be installed.

Attach an inch pound torque wrench to the steering wheel bolt and slowly and evenly rotate the steering wheel clockwise 1/2 turn (180 degrees).
Record the peak preload torque.
Rotate the steering wheel to its centered position (approximately 1-1/2 turns from either stop). Place the torque wrench on the steering wheel bolt with the handle in the vertical position. Rotate the torque wrench slowly and evenly 1/4 turn (90 degrees) from each side of center.
Record the peak on-center torque.
NOTE: The on-center torque must be 0.56-1.02 Nm (5-9 lb-in) greater than preload torque without exceeding a total of 1.92 Nm (17 lb-in). The on-center torque minus the preload torque is the meshload torque.

If necessary, carry out the following steps to adjust the on-center torque.
NOTE: Rotate the meshload screw clockwise to increase and counter clockwise to decrease.

Adjust the meshload screw to the proper rotating torque.
Hold the meshload screw and loosen the lock nut.
Adjust the meshload screw.

Verify the rotating torque is to specification.
Readjust if necessary.
Tighten the lock nut.
Hold the meshload screw.
Tighten the lock nut.

Install the drag link, castellated nut and cotter pin.
FMT

[towrig]

FMT, thanks for the information. I can see why folks use the "until it feels right" method. At some point in the coming weeks, I'll adjust it the easy way, and check my results using the full procedure. It gives me an excuse to mess around with the truck without spending any money.

FamilyRide, I can't believe that would ever happen. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif[/img]

[billindenver]

I'm not sure, but I think you had better go drive a new one. The first thing I noticed was that the steering wandered. I drove it for 3 hours, and was always annoyed by the wandering steering. I then drove the 3/4 ton GMC duramax and it handled normally. The next day I took an F-250 diesel for an afternoon. The steering wandered and any time I hit a bump of any size the steering wheel would jump under my hand. Very disconcerting in a brand new truck. I have not yet written off the ford, because the inside room is greater than the GM, but the off line sluggish start, then ZOOM turbo rush as well as the very weird front end handling has me on the fence.

Bill

[towrig]

Bill, I don't have that bad of a problem anymore. When I bought it used last year, it was scary. But by doing the usual mods (Hellwig, steering stabilizer, shocks and rods) talked about here and on other forums, the problem has drastically improved. I'm just experimenting to see if I can get it perfect. If I can't get it any better, at least it is only time lost at this point.

[Fordasaurus]

I read with interest the whole 01-03-02 TSB and noticed that it references the warranty this way:
"WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under The
Provisions Of Bumper To Bumper Warranty Coverage"

Is this the 36k(Full)or 100k(partial) warranty?

Thanks,

Mark

[fordmastertech]

[ QUOTE ]
I read with interest the whole 01-03-02 TSB and noticed that it references the warranty this way:
"WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under The
Provisions Of Bumper To Bumper Warranty Coverage"

Is this the 36k(Full)or 100k(partial) warranty?



[/ QUOTE ] It would be the 3 year 36000 mile bumper to bumper warranty unless you have one of the better Ford ESP extended warranty's.
FMT

[Fordasaurus]

Thanks FMT, I was just hoping...

I believe that this TSB applies to the conditions that I am experiencing and had suspected ball joints. I know the TSB suggests particular Ford based components. Can anyone comment on how the parts offered in the link below stack up against what Ford recommends?

Ball Joint Link

Thanks,

Mark