"I know with my 7.3, F*rd says not to idle for more than 10 minutes to prevent engine damage."
Michael
Just bought my first X a week and a half ago. Living in NJ I have to deal with the occasional mega traffic jam during which sitting at idle for 10 minutes or more is not an unusual occurance. Is there a mod that can help with this issue or does Ford really expect me to keep shutting down the engine (and the AC)?. This would not be fun on those 95 degree days surrounded by trucks and buses on the NJ Turnpike. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bleh.gif[/img]
I have been a working road medic for the last 9 years and we sit in our ambulance for 10-12 hours a day with no problems. The company I work for has over 50+ ambulances on the road daily, And have never blown a diesel, Maybe the occasional injector, and multiple belt tentioners. The highest mialage diesel in are fleet and still on the road is at 297,000+ and runs like a raped ape....
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"I know with my 7.3, F*rd says not to idle for more than 10 minutes to prevent engine damage."
Michael
Just bought my first X a week and a half ago. Living in NJ I have to deal with the occasional mega traffic jam during which sitting at idle for 10 minutes or more is not an unusual occurance. Is there a mod that can help with this issue or does Ford really expect me to keep shutting down the engine (and the AC)?. This would not be fun on those 95 degree days surrounded by trucks and buses on the NJ Turnpike. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bleh.gif[/img]
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No, f*rd doesn't. If you are sitting in traffic, (in drive) the load of the torque converter & the A/C if you are running it present enough load to keep the engine at operating temps. I haven't seen the temps drop below 300 in the conditions you describe. Wet stacking starts a 275 I'm told. The problems start to happen when you idle for a long time in park.
Read the Powerstroke supplement to your truck. There's lots of good information in there.
If it really, really, really, really worries you, use a fuel additive that has some extra detergent in it. Stanadyne or Power Service. That will help keep unburnt fuel build up off the valves.
I have been following the several posts now regarding this extending idling issue. On and off construction sites, my X is started,runs and idles ALL day, gets shutdown at night. It is just a baby now and I do not want to hurt it. Any suggestions?
CAN SOMEONE DEFINE "WET STACKING" FOR ME....PLEASE.....
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2001 PSD Excursion Limited, 3.73LS - White/Beige, minus the roof rack crossmembers, Door Badged, Quad Pod - 4 Autometers (EGT, Eng Oil, Trans Oil, & Coolant Temps. on the A-pillar), Turbo Temp Monitor, Firestone Ride-Rite Rears, Edelbrook IAS Shocks, X-pel Light Protection, Weather-Tech Window Deflectors, Grill Guard, GoRhino Hitch Step, Bob Riley's Coolant Filter System, Magnefine Tranny Filter, Garmin Street Pilot III GPS. Fumoto Drain Valve, Gofia Bug Screen, Custom Built Wheel-less Trailer, XM Radio - Always detailed body, undercarriage, & engine.
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I have been following the several posts now regarding this extending idling issue. On and off construction sites, my X is started,runs and idles ALL day, gets shutdown at night. It is just a baby now and I do not want to hurt it. Any suggestions?
CAN SOMEONE DEFINE "WET STACKING" FOR ME....PLEASE.....
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Wet stacking is caused by incomplete combustion. When the engine is cool, the fuel does not get totally burnt. This unburnt fuel can lacquer, or build up on, the exhaust valves, eventually causing the valves not to seat fully.
Wet stacking is POSSIBLE in PSD, but a rare occurrence. To get the engine cool enough, the outside temp must be pretty low. During non-winter months (in most parts of the country), even at idle, the engine will not cool down enough to cause a wet stacking concern.
If you are really concerned about this, run a good detergent additive, such as Stanadyne Lubricity Formula or Power Service DieselKleen in the Summer, and the Standadyne or Power Service product with anti-gel in the winter (I forget the names).
The other option is to install the AIC (auxillary idle controller). This lets you "idle" the engine at higher rpms so that the engine temp does not drop too low. The AIC may be just the ticket for your situation.
Many thanks for the definition and the lead to the other forum. I have read all and feel a little less stupid...no comment...Unfortunately, this gives me one more thing to worry about.
TOM
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2001 PSD Excursion Limited, 3.73LS - White/Beige, minus the roof rack crossmembers, Door Badged, Quad Pod - 4 Autometers (EGT, Eng Oil, Trans Oil, & Coolant Temps. on the A-pillar), Turbo Temp Monitor, Firestone Ride-Rite Rears, Edelbrook IAS Shocks, X-pel Light Protection, Weather-Tech Window Deflectors, Grill Guard, GoRhino Hitch Step, Bob Riley's Coolant Filter System, Magnefine Tranny Filter, Garmin Street Pilot III GPS. Fumoto Drain Valve, Gofia Bug Screen, Custom Built Wheel-less Trailer, XM Radio - Always detailed body, undercarriage, & engine.
Many thanks for the definition and the lead to the other forum. I have read all and feel a little less stupid...no comment...Unfortunately, this gives me one more thing to worry about.
TOM
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Being a worrier myself I can understand, but don't sweat it too much. Like the people in this forum said, it's not really much of an issue in the summer. If my AC is running, on a 60 degree day (outside) I'm idling about 280-290 (after the motor is warm). If it's 80-90 outside she's running right at 300. Get an EGT gauge and then you'll know if you're possibly causing yourself a problem. My engine has to run pretty fast in the winter to hold 300 degree's if I'm idling (1700rpm) and I think this is your worst case.
Regards,
Dave
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2002 Excursion Limited - 7.3 PSD, 4x4, Auto. Tekonsha Prodigy Controller. ISSPRO EV Gauges in A-Pillar mount. Diesel Turbo Lifesaver. Pre-pump Mod. SCMT-Trimode. AIC. Back Door storage bins. Banks 3 1/2 inch Monster Exhaust. AIS. "U-Code" Springs. Powerstroker Exhaust Brake. Husky Liners. Bilstein Shocks. ART Brakes, Helwig Rear Anti-swaybar. Zoodad Mod. Airlift Rear Airbags. Racor 3550 CCV. Forest River Wildcat 26FBS TT.
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Being a worrier myself I can understand, but don't sweat it too much. Like the people in this forum said, it's not really much of an issue in the summer.
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Agree, unless you are looking for something to worry about. In winter months, run some Stanadyne (Ford approved for PSD). The extra detergent will help with the build up. Also, why not just shut the engine off if you can?
Generally, long idle times for any engine are not that good. Keeping the oil temps up is important. Also not really good is the every day one mile trip to the store, school, work etc. The engine and the oil need to get up to normal operating temps. I realize that for some of us this is not reality.
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Too much junk/toys to mention, ever changing due to too getting bored too quickly. I need a 10 step program!
Want to call? I'm in the book. Want to argue....First explain the square root of negative one....lol
Yup, I have to work pretty hard to get my engine up to temp for a trip to Lowe's or something like that as it's only 2-3 miles away . .so I just decided the heck with it an moved the family 20 miles out into the country. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]
(this weekend as a matter of fact . .sitting here in an empty house and the only thing working is the computer and the internet connection. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img] )
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2002 Excursion Limited - 7.3 PSD, 4x4, Auto. Tekonsha Prodigy Controller. ISSPRO EV Gauges in A-Pillar mount. Diesel Turbo Lifesaver. Pre-pump Mod. SCMT-Trimode. AIC. Back Door storage bins. Banks 3 1/2 inch Monster Exhaust. AIS. "U-Code" Springs. Powerstroker Exhaust Brake. Husky Liners. Bilstein Shocks. ART Brakes, Helwig Rear Anti-swaybar. Zoodad Mod. Airlift Rear Airbags. Racor 3550 CCV. Forest River Wildcat 26FBS TT.
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