Stuck rotor - any tips for getting the #@%#$ thing off ??

[Sudsy]

Replacing the front rotors and pads with Powerslots and Hawks - ran into a little problem.

Drivers side front 2000 4wd 7.3 PSD has a badly warped front drivers side rotor. I got everything else off (other side was a piece of cake) but the rotor has no desire to come off the hub
I've sprayed it, soaked it, beat it half to death with a dead blow hammer, even gave it a few softer whacks with a ball peen hammer
- it ain't moving

Now what ??

[klhansen]

BIGGER HAMMER!!!

If you're replacing it, don't worry about hurting it. The heavier the hammer, the quicker it will come off. It'll just laugh at a ball peen.

You've got to deafen those rust molecules that are holding hands, keeping it stuck on. Make 'em let go and cover their ears.

[Sudsy]

5 lb sledge and a fit of anger took care of it

Thanks

[Firebomb_k]

Yes when in doubt use a bigger hammer. I perfer an 18lb sledge myself.....it gives such a perfect twang.

Travis

[detroitfd]

When mine got done, he used an air hammer attachment on the compressor and both came off in 5 seconds.

[clamgulch]

Originally Posted by Sudsy

5 lb sledge and a fit of anger took care of it

Thanks

LMAO!!!! Well put.

[2dedge]

Worst case, you will need to pull the unit bearing and put the whole assembly in a press. I had to do this on a chevy a few months ago.

[coldair]

take a 3 lb sledge ans smack in around the center. the vibration usally will amke it seperate from the hub

[rock_doctor]

Put a block of wood under the rotor and slowly let the truck down onto the block of wood. It will break free just be sure to not let it down too fast you don't want the rotor to flop forward onto the studs. It can crack.

[turbodave]

Are the rotors seperate from the hub assembly? If so, I wonder why my local stealership told me there's a set of grease seals required with a rotor change???

[rock_doctor]

Turbo Dave since you have a 2wd then your rotor does have the bearings mounted inside. If you need to replace the rotor you will need to install the bearings, seal and make sure you grease it all real well. The original poster has a 4wd so the rotor is mounted on a hub assembly that contains the bearings and studs. It is a different animal.

[boatpuller]

Good idea to use never-sieze between the rotor and hub when you reassemble it. I also use it on the lug nuts so if my wife is driving it and has a flat, she can get them off.

[turbodave]

Originally Posted by rock_doctor

Turbo Dave since you have a 2wd then your rotor does have the bearings mounted inside. If you need to replace the rotor you will need to install the bearings, seal and make sure you grease it all real well. The original poster has a 4wd so the rotor is mounted on a hub assembly that contains the bearings and studs. It is a different animal.

So if I understand you correctly, my rotors are NOT seperate from the hubs???

[JADFPE]

Originally Posted by turbodave

So if I understand you correctly, my rotors are NOT seperate from the hubs???

Dave - You understand correctly.

Hope this helps,
John

[Zaphod]

I found a plumbing torch and a 12lb sledge were the answer. My front rotors weren't too bad, but since I got 100k miles (160 k km) and about 3.5 years on my stock brakes, the rear rotors were amazingly difficult to remove.

I bought an MBS plumbing torch for the task (although the standard propane probably works). I used the torch to heat the portion of the rotor that was in contact with the hub. After about 2 or 3 minutes, I shut off the torch and went at it with the sledge. It came off with a fair amount of effort. I added anti-seize to the replacement before I mounted it.

I had tried the 12lb sledge for about 20 or 30 minutes before the torch. I was not effective for me. I was not trying to save the rotors, but no level of violence seemed to help.

A little bit of heat is magic. Whenever you're doing this, heat the outside thing. IE: bolt stuck in something, heat the something, not the bolt. You want to expand the outside thing with heat, not the inside thing.

I would assume you want to be careful not to cook the hub or it's grease, etc. There's a lot of metal on this truck --- so it's not that hard to heat the rotor without significantly heating the hub.