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2000 E350 - Maintenance & Upgrades

13K views 84 replies 5 participants last post by  bork 
#1 ·
Hey guys,

Im currently elbow deep in upgrades and maintenance on my van. Taking a nice road trip (about 2000 miles round trip) to the south east and south in June and want to make sure we are in good shape as I do have 271k on the clock. The original plan was to take care of an annoying oil drip I had from oil leaks somewhere in the valley and a boost leak. I think I found my boost leak as the worm clamps on my intake were not very tight. Some new silicone boots and t-clamps should take care of that. Got a majority of parts from riffraff diesel and rockauto which include: Bellowed up-pipes with 2” heat wrap, Turbo Re-install/O-ring Kit, FRx, Stainless HPX, Intake Plenum Reinforcements, Air Intake Delete, Complete fuel bowl O-ring kit and fuel filter, Fuel pressure gauge and Schrader valve, Full hpop O-ring kit with hose fitting repair kit, hpop gasket & serviceable hpop plug (longer threads).

I really didn’t want to remove the pump in fear I may damage something and I didn’t have the tool to remove the high pressure oil lines at the pump but once I got the valley open after removing everything else, I noticed how wet it was by the pump. I would have been kicking myself if I didn’t address this and buttoned everything up, soooo out it comes! At this point, I have gotten everything out, cleaned up and re-sealed. I bought the shop manuals and have an electrical reference book for the 2000 Econoline which I highly recommend to anyone doing their own work. I honestly NEVER looked forward to digging into the vans engine for maintenance/upgrades considering the limited space but it honestly has not been that bad. As most say, a good assortment of tools and A LOT of patience will get the job done. Time to put it all back together. Just wanted to document what I have done thus far for anyone that may need any additional references/ideas/pics. I’ll also be doing coolant system maintenance and exhaust upgrades as well but that will be later on down the road. I attached some pics as I cant figure out how to place them in the thread.
 

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#2 ·
Also forgot to mention I gutted the ebpv system and tapped the hole with a 1/2-20 tap and will thread a bolt in there and seal it up with RTV. Im hoping I wont notice too much of a difference in the winter. We shall see.
 

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#4 ·
In image 3of5 , the steel fuel line that runs from rear of passenger head, is that part of the change out with the new system? If not, some of them get a hole rubbed into them, approx 1/2 way up, IIRC from clamp. Mine did, on vacation, with a pretty good spray. Had to order & wait for part.
 
#3 ·
Fuel bowl and AIH Delete.....Thanks to erto1 for the fuel pressure gauge notion!
 

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#5 · (Edited)
Nice work, djbonsu! I agree with you. Working on a diesel van is really not bad as long as you're willing to just remove some extra stuff to gain the necessary access. Some things are actually easier! Do you know how long any turbo or up pipe work takes on a truck? ;) I don't think you'll regret removing the EBPV. You can still plug it in on cold nights and get a high idle tune if you don't have one already. If you would like to make your turbo outlet a true high flow (without any crazy welding or metal work), remove your butterfly in the exhaust outlet by cutting off the 2 rivets. Pull out and twist to remove the center rod. Use a 5/8" bolt to knock the sleeve out of the open end that the rod came out of. Then buy two 3/4" x 1/4" freeze plugs, NAPA part # 381-3038. Buy two 3/4" snap rings. Press the plug by driving it just past the groove (round side towards inside of pipe). Insert the snap ring in groove to prevent from blowing out. Then you have a true high flow outlet for less than $5! It can always be converted back to original.
If anyone thinks this won't work, they can buy a Rotomaster high flow outlet and see that they just sell the factory style outlets with added freeze plugs. These are just common 1960's-1980's freeze plugs found on lots of domestic cars. Metal Fashion accessory
I'd rather use the extra $70 elsewhere! Happy wrenching!
 
#6 ·
Nice work, djbonsu! I agree with you. Working on a diesel van is really not bad as long as you're willing to just remove some extra stuff to gain the necessary access. Some things are actually easier! Do you know how long any turbo or up pipe work takes on a truck? ;) I don't think you'll regret removing the EBPV. You can still plug it in on cold nights and get a high idle tune if you don't have one already. If you would like to make your turbo outlet a true high flow (without any crazy welding or metal work), remove your butterfly (wastegate flap). Then buy two 3/4" x 1/4" freeze plugs, NAPA part # 381-3038. Buy two 13/16" or 7/8" snap rings(can't remember which fit best but they are cheap). Press the plugs (round side towards inside of pipe. Insert one snap ring in groove per plug to prevent from blowing out. Then you have a true high flow outlet for less than $5! It can always be converted back to original.
If anyone thinks this won't work, they can buy a Rotomaster high flow outlet and see that they just sell the factory style outlets with added freeze plugs. These are just common 1960's-1980's freeze plugs found on lots of domestic cars. View attachment 93138 I'd rather use the extra $70 elsewhere! Happy wrenching!

Thanks man and yea, taking things out to make room on the van isnt all that bad but putting them back can be challenging lol. Nice info on the freeze plugs...Ill consider it when I do my exhaust.
 
#7 · (Edited)
Got it all back together! Started up on the first try but was a little rough due to air in the oil system probably but worked itself out after a few minutes idling. Aside from a leaking fitting on my fuel pressure gauge, so far so good. Fuel pressure if right at 66 PSI at idle but didnt get to check it while driving around due to the leak.

Did I say working on vans isnt that bad?? Yea right...lol. The fuel bowl o-rings at the discharge and fuel in ports put up a good fight as they we wedged in the fitting pretty good. For some reason I didnt realize that there were high pressure fittings for the oil at the head too which also have o-rings in them but they werent leaking so I hope they stay that way. Other than that, I havent seen any leaks in the valley. One thing to remember is to be very careful when re-installing the gear drive bolt to the HPOP as the washer can fall down in the front cover which would be NO BUENO. I was super nervous as I didnt want to lose the thick washer that sandwiches in between the bolt and gear.Throttle response was the first thing I noticed that has gotten better. She moves about pretty good now. Boost apparently is better as well but when I really get on it, The "service engine soon" light comes on then goes out....anyone experience that? Seems to do it when boost builds to 20 PSI or so.

Nothing much to show but I did attach some pics of the final process. Coolant flush and change to an ELC and 4" exhaust are next on the list.
 

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#10 ·
Thanks CJ!
 
#13 · (Edited)
It really isn't all that bad BUT it is time consuming. I'm not sure if you can access it from the front/under the hood of the van but maybe if you remove the fuel bowl and hpop reservoir, you can?? I accessed the pump through the valley after removing the turbo, pedestal, resonator, intake y, and fuel bowl. Then you will see the back of the hpop and the valley will be opened up for you to analyze where leaks are coming from IF you have any.

Once the valley is opened up, here are the steps I took to remove the pump:

1) Using an old but clean hand soap/hand sanitizer pump, evacuate as much oil from the reservoir. This can be accessed by removing the Allen head plug located at the top right of the reservoir

2) Remove the serpentine belt and the clamp from the heater core hose at the top of the water pump housing and also remove the ebp sensor and disconnect the line at the sensor bracket. You don't have to remove the line entirely unless it maybe clogged. Now would be a good time to inspect the line and sensor. Clean or replace the items if needed.

3) Remove the ebp sensor bracket/hpop gear bolt cover (same part) by removing the two small bolts. Behind there you will find an 18mm bolt which has to be removed.

4) Now here is the tricky part. First, attempt to remove the gear bolt using a slim 3/8 or 1/2 breaker bar and an 18mm socket with a 2" extension or 18mm deep socket (be careful of the cooling fan so u don't damage it. You can remove it but I didn't) Watch the crank pulley as you attempt to remove the bolt. If it doesn't break loose and the crank/engine turns, you have to get another person to hold the crank pulley still while you attempt this. I didn't have that luxury so I got another breaker bar and 15/16 socket and with my breaker bar/18mm socket resting in the a/c compressor (put a rag in between them) I turned the engine crank clockwise to break the hpop gear bolt loose. Once loose CAREFULLY remove the bolt and thick washer. Take your time as you don't want to drop that washer down in the front cover. If you do.....you will have to pull the front flip and cover to retrieve it.

5) now go back into the valley and remove the ipr sensor wiring hpop discharge fittings using the hpop discharge fitting tool (riff raff diesel, diesel o-rings or Amazon sell this tool)

6) Remove the two 10mm bolts at the back of the pump. I used two LONG 1/4 drive extensions and a 1/4 ratchet to remove them. You a longer ratchet or breaker bar for this and the bolts will more than likely be in there good so u need some good torque to break them free.

7) Once the bolts are out, hoses and wiring is removed, you can take the pump out!

A few things you need are

- high pressure hose removal tool
- torque wrench that can get down to 18 ft.lbs (torque needed for the 10mm bolts during re-install. Do not over tighten these bokts)
- hpop gasket (throw the old one away)
- good assortment of tools
- lots of patience

That should get the hpop out. Now when putting it back in, you only need to tighten the gear bolt enough to turn the motor. Shop manual spec calls for 95 ft.lbs But that really isn't necessary from the research I've done. Riffraff diesel & diesel irking both sell the extended hpop orings kit which replaces every orings in the hpop and the discharge fittings. You may want to replace the orings at the high pressure hides at the heads as well while your in there.

Good luck on that adventure. I may have left something out but let me know if you have any trouble and don't forget to refill the reservoir before starting it.
 
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#14 ·
Thanks Rob! Thought I broke something lol
 
#15 ·
Thanks for the write up, is that the vacuum pump bracket with the pulley on it? do you have dual alternators? i believe my van is different? i have to check? did you have to remove that bracket also?
 
#16 ·
No the bracket shown with the pulley on it is the alternator and belt tensioner bracket I believe. I have a single alternator setup.
 
#18 ·
When I pulled the turbo and pedestal I noticed a lot of oil leaking around the rod that actuates the butterfly in the exhaust. I simply didn't want to buy a new pedestal so I gutted the rod and replaced it with a bolt and rtv. Only downside is that the ebpv will not close the butterfly valve to heat up the motor in the colder weather and the is a soft code on the pcm but there is nothing to worry about. Truck will just take a few minutes longer to warm up and High idle still kicks in. AIH delete was done because it rarely ever is used and I wanted to use that location for a boost port instead of the map sensor. Just a preference of mine. Unplugging it will also set another soft code on the clock but once again, nothing to worry about.
 
#20 ·
Be sure to check the codes, to play it safe!
After the first time I had the service light pop on I pulled over and checked. My Freind's F250 also triggers the overboost light...
 
#21 ·
Whats the best way to check codes, if it does not stay on? & it only tickles light, under WOT?
 
#22 · (Edited)
I immediately pulled over and plugged my scanner in, it showed an overboost. When I started driving away the light went off.

It's been a while, but I think the codes are held in the computer for a bit after the light goes off.
 
#23 ·
OK dj, we followed along as you got all that work done. Us van guys fully understand all the contortionist and acrobatic maneuvers it takes to work under there! So what we're waiting for now is to hear how she's running for you! Hope it's sounding sweet.
 
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#26 ·
That's great news! Glad to hear. Forgot you have 4wd, until you mentioned 35's. Man, that sucker must sit high! Only problem changing gearing on a 4wd is you have to change it out in both. Not sure how the rest of your exhaust is holding up in the salt belt, but if it is o.k., you might want to consider just cutting out the factory muffler and installing a Walker BTM. I installed mine a few weeks ago and am real happy with the straight thru design. They're less than $50 from Summit or Rock. It was a pretty easy install and I did not have to rotate the S pipe ahead of it. It did require making some hangers or you could have a muffler shop weld them on them after the install. I went that route so I could wrap everything and buy a turbo blanket. I couldn't wait to toss that tin heat shield and bracket in the trash. I can now change fuel filters, hook up fuel pressure gauge, access everything behind the fuel bowl, by just reaching in from doghouse! I am glad to hear that beast is running great!
 
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#28 ·
Thanks! Yea, he sits pretty tall. Still getting used to that first step in and out. My front gears are 4.10. Just need to match them. Was going to change them but I got a steal on a D60 full floater with 4.10s and Im hoping a posi as well. Have to find time to go pick it up.

good Job DJ! i just got new boots, turbo kit, hpop lines and clamps to go into the valley. I'm waiting for the FRX and i will be all set. Just finished up the coolant system and oil cooler. i want to seal this pup! what are you using to monitor your EGT?
Thanks Cj! I have an egt gauge with a thermocouple probe in the drivers side manifold. Good luck on the install! Are you pulling the hpop as well or just changing the lines?
 
#27 · (Edited)
good Job DJ! i just got new boots, turbo kit, hpop lines and clamps to go into the valley. I'm waiting for the FRX and i will be all set. Just finished up the coolant system and oil cooler. i want to seal this pup! what are you using to monitor your EGT?
 
#30 ·
Cj, I had my HPOP and bowl in place when I installed my Frx. Not too bad to do, but I disconnected battery grounds and pulled belt and alternator. Wire brush clean and use some PB Rustbuster on those fittings ahead of time. A small 4"-5" vise grip is what worked on the front one which is more difficult to access. I recommend putting 3/8" wire loom over both lines before install too. On mine, I slipped 3/4" marine shrink wrap over both fuel rail ends (and lapped over the loom) and shrunk it down over the metal ends. Then high heat tape over the back hose end after install.
 
#35 ·
Bork, I would have thought so too, originally. After researching negative pressure, it sort of made sense. You don't have to wonder if adding more rise to the CCV would work. I've already done it and it helped a-lot! Still get a little oil in there but not nearly as bad. Rotated the hard plastic piece in the trunk 180*. Then made @ 6" more rise like this: Auto part Pipe
Auto part Engine Fuel line Carburetor Vehicle
 
#37 ·
Bork, I would have thought so too, originally. After researching negative pressure, it sort of made sense. You don't have to wonder if adding more rise to the CCV would work. I've already done it and it helped a-lot! Still get a little oil in there but not nearly as bad. Rotated the hard plastic piece in the trunk 180*. Then made @ 6" more rise like this: View attachment 93890 View attachment 93898
I was wondering about using the same stock set up for CCV but install a loop up as high as possible & reconnect. (without rotating truck 180*)
 
#40 ·
CJ, I found good prices on them at Rock around $15 each. I think the down pipe clamp is Ford # f81z8287ea or DORMAN #904251 (100 mm v-band clamp for up to 4" diameter)
 
#39 ·
I know on my 1999 a spray-paint can lid/cover would fit in nicely, but I got drone noise, so I put box back on. IIRC the later vans had bigger intakes on the turbo wye to head. maybe the resonator is slightly larger also?
 
#45 ·
I know what you mean! A-lot of them have about 1/2 gallon of Speedy Dry or cat litter left in there from past oil leaks! Makes it hard to find a future leak later on. The cap will be fine!
 
#53 · (Edited)
New Issue: A/C blows warm in traffic

So, I have a new issue gents. While driving on the hwy, my A/C blows nice and cold. When I hit traffic, it gets warm. Anyone have any insight on this? I did check to see if my compressor clutch engages and disengages and it does. I don't know much about A/C systems so any help would be great before I consider taking it to a shop (I don't trust most shops lol)
 
#54 ·
So, I have a new issue gents. While driving on the hwy, my A/C blows nice and cold. When I hit traffic, it gets warm. Anyone have any insight on this? I did check to see if my compressor clutch engages and disengages and it does. I don't know much about A/C systems so any help would be great before I consider taking it to a shop (I don't trust most shops lol)
try to evac the system and put in new freon. also make sure your condenser is clean
 
#55 ·
Ok, if the condenser is right in front of the radiator but aft the tiny tranny cooler then, yes the lower right corner of it is pretty mucked up with grime. I'll have o get some a/c coil cleaner. Some of the fins are bent as well. Sigh...

Not sure how to evacuate the system but I think my go to mechanic may. Hopefully he has time as he just started a new gig and closed his shop. Hence I have been doing all my own work lately lol. Thanks for the tip CJ.

My question is if these condition pre-existed last year and the year prior, why all of a sudden is it acting up? Is this common in some systems? I have an 05 TL that I bought in 06 and never had to touch the A/c system and it runs a lot more than my van.
 
#56 · (Edited)
check your condenser box in the engine compartment passenger side, mine had a hole in it and i had to patch it with fiberglass. vacuum out the old Freon and check for leaks and refill. make sure all AC lines are tight.
 
#58 ·
Ford clutches are notorious for slipping when they get worn, so a shim can be removed that closes the gap more & will give you a while longer use. I hope this wasn't the problem, only & the dealer made money off a simple fix.
Do a search "ac shim"
 
#61 ·
Yea, I had tools with me and tried a few different shim configs but I still got the same erratic behavior. Upon taking it to Ford, i told them the clutch is probably just work out and they ran the diagnostics and came back with one side of the compressors's pressure was low.....blah blah blah. At that point I just gave them the go ahead to replace it and whatever else needed replacing.

i seem to have a similar problem with my AC also, it defaults to defrost after the AC blows cold for a while or if i put the fan speed on low it changes to defrost?? also is there anyway to incorporate a rear AC?
Like Bork said, seems you have a vacuum leak somewhere. I had this same issue but it happened to me the same time my brake booster went out so that was my issue.
 
#59 ·
i seem to have a similar problem with my AC also, it defaults to defrost after the AC blows cold for a while or if i put the fan speed on low it changes to defrost?? also is there anyway to incorporate a rear AC?
 
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