Join Date: May 2002
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Re: E350 Club Wagon Rear Heat/Air Problem
Thanks to all, I now have the rear heat/air working right again. I first checked the vacuum motors in the dash. This was very, very easy as the access panel just snaps into place on the top of the dash. With the access panel off, both vacuum motors were easily accessible. Unfortunately, both motor arms worked properly when the switch was turned to heat or air. The motor on the right had a "T" connector in the blue vacuum line and I could tell that this line ran back to the rear air and I couldn't find any kinks or blockage from the dash down to the passage under the step well of the driver's door, so I started removing the back panels by the heat/air unit.
First, the panel directly over the heat/air unit has a small section with an air intake grid. The way this section is made makes it appear that it should be removeable. As I bought this van used, several of the air grid ribs were already broken as if something being hauled in the back of the van had fallen on it. Due to this, I decided to pry this section off when it did not snap off easily. It ends up being attached by what appears to be plastic posts extending from the grid into holes on the rear trim panel, but the plastic posts had been heated/melted into rivets and I just broke off each one as I removed the grid. (When I reinstalled this, rather than buying a new grid, which I might do later, I put five small screws through the grid posts/rivets and it is held back solidly and will be easy to remove again, if necessary.)
With the air grid out of the way, I was able to see the rear vacuum motor and the same blue vacuum line attaching to it. I removed the line at a connection about 8 inches from the motor and could feel a very small vacuum in it. I was concerned that the vacuum might not be strong enough so I cleaned the remaining line leading to the motor and then sucked on the line. I could hear the motor arm moving (the motor was attached to a plastic housing and the arm was completely inside the housing so you couldn't see the arm). At the same time, I could see a pivot pin/hinge of the diverter door sticking out of its pivot hole in the housing. This part did not move as I actuated the vacuum motor. Taking needle nose pliars I was able to turn the diverter door and turning on the air put the air out the ceiling vents as designed. As soon as you let go of the door with the needle nose, it would go back from ceiling to floor air. I had to remove the door and motor to see what needed replaced.
In hind sight, there might have been enough (barely) room to get the motor and door out through the air grid I removed, but I removed the trim panel for more access. I had to remove the top trim panel before I could remove the bottom panel. There was one small bolt holding the vacuum motor in place, right at the bottom of the motor. After removing the motor and the door, I could see that the pin where the motor arm connects to the door was broken off. A new door cost $18 at Ford and everything went back together easier than it came apart. Now my wife is much happier since we are taking her family to the Indy 500 next week in the van and she wanted them to have rear air available in case it gets hot.
Thanks again for the help and suggestions. I now have another question about the shocks, but I'll start a new thread about that.