"F" Billet Thermostat housing can work on vans

[sixiron]

Constant problem with seepage from the thermostat housing...the stamped steel "neck" wouldn't seal properly anymore even using new ones...

finally got it to stop leaking...or seeping...

got an F series billet housing from bob riley (dieselsite) ...I put studs into the 3 housing holes and installed new billet housing ...its much shorter... http://www.dieselsite.com/index.asp?...amp;ProdID=188
I then cut the flange off an old stock http://www.dieselsite.com/index.asp?...amp;ProdID=334 unit,cut about 2" off, and married the two together with HD 1 3/4 straight radiator hose...working fine now with no seepage, etc...

This has been a royal PIA for a long time, trying to get this housing to seal properly...once you change a water pump and then have to go back 2 other times for housing leaks it get old fast...

Anyway the F series billet housing can be made to work on the van..
FWIw
bill

[MADVAN]

Bill
Do you know the I.D. of the housing. Is there enough material to maybe tap it and run a alum nipple into it. Or turn down the outside lip and thread thread it.
I'am fighting the same leak once again. I have loss of coolant but i do not think its the pump. Just to cold out to see.

I was thinking to have one tiged up.

Bill

[bork]

I dont understand, in the 2nd link it shows an oem but after you read 1/2 way down into description it says "They are made of stamped steel and are not treated very well from the factory against rust. They rust and the seat becomes very uneven. We offered this part for those that wanted to eliminate the chance of leaks when changing your thermostat." What is the "we offered this part"? sounds like Bob is saying the oem stamped steel is nothing to brag about & you gamble with rust/leaks, so they offer an option. what?
Bill, you have any pics? I'm not too crazing about linking pieces but I suppose its easier & less time consuming than fab/welding.

[MADVAN]

Might just use Bill's method for ease of install. His way is fine,cheap and easy.(sounds like a good date)
Bob's part is oem relpacement. Stamped.

Bill

[bork]

Looks like like I need to get lined up for this, since waterpump is next on list. I dont want to see how long it will go before I get stuck out in middle of timbucktoo.

[BlizzardVan]

I'm testing right now to see how long you can go with a seeping water pump seal? Lets see I noticed the drip back in september...

[puttputtwannabe]

My van's been seeping for a couple of years now, mostly when it's colder weather.New pump waiting!

[Super_Dave]

Nice work, Sixiron!

[sixiron]

I just got in from NYC and no leaks, drips, or errors...


will catch up and respond later

bill

[sixiron]

[ QUOTE ]
Bill
Do you know the I.D. of the housing. Is there enough material to maybe tap it and run a alum nipple into it. Or turn down the outside lip and thread thread it.
I'am fighting the same leak once again. I have loss of coolant but i do not think its the pump. Just to cold out to see.

I was thinking to have one tiged up.

Bill

[/ QUOTE ]

Bill, I hope I understand your question..I assume you are talking about the billet housing and not the stock type....I didn't measure the housing but it was a good 1/4 inch thick , both base and sides...plenty enough to tap threads into...you could possible take Bob's base and fab the stock neck onto it..that would eliminate the hose as a connecter....that would be a good project......

From Memory...the billet housing diameter has to be near 1 1/2" inside diameter measurement...cause 1 3/4" radiator hose fit over the outside of the housing...housing wall probably 1/4" thick so I am guessing at around 1 1/2" ...may call Bob Riley and ask , he should have specs...

anybody thinking of doing what I did, please doublecheck the crook, or the bend of the pipe to make sure that it doesn't interfere with the serpentine belt...its no biggie just make sure the neck part is turned in the right direction when tightning the hose clamps...on my first test fit I had the "bend" facing more toward the front end than it should be and had to turn it back toward the engine to get the proper clearance...once you look at it you will see that in the stock setup it is still close to the serpentine belt...

so far I have run about 1500 miles and its OK

fwiw...bill

[clev]

If anyone is into replacing/repairing the T/stat housing, you may want to consider replacing the t/stat. The original t/stat temp is less than 200 degrees but the engine supposedly works better at greater than 200. I replaced mine with a 203 degree t/stat and the engine does 'seem' to work more efficiently.

[dansk]

Mine was leaking the first time I put her back together. I took a different approach to fixing it. Everything stock. Just a small addition. Going on vacation to Panama for 12 days, and when I get back I will try to post some pics if I remember. It's a very easy fix.
Dann

[bork]

Thanks for the cliff hanger.