Glow Plug Relay - Diesel Forum

E350PSD · 12-16-2002, 11:04 PM

Another victim… While moving from CA to AR we woke up to a few inches of snow in Grants, New Mexico. Probably the first time I really needed my glow plugs to work the infamous relay decided bulk at the task.

An old timer said to use some starting fluid. Normally this is not recommended on glow plug systems but since they were not coming on what the heck! It started right up without incidence and we were on our way.

It looks like a new relay will set me back a $100. Seems pretty cheesy that this thing fails just after the warranty expires.

Otherwise, the van performed flawlessly towing all our stuff. We were loaded somewhere between 18,000 to 19,000 lbs. Managed 70 to 75 MPH most of the way on I40. Things did slow down and heat up on the grades.

PJC99 · 12-17-2002, 10:47 AM

It's covered under the five year/100K warranty....I'm assuming that that's what you mean by setting you back $100.00.

Glow plug solenoids and starter relays are funny things. They take an awesome amount of abuse connecting extremely high current loads. I've seen them last forever and sometimes not even a year. It seems to be the luck of the draw. I know on one of my plow trucks I end up changing the pump solenoid at least once a year. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img]

One thing that will really kill a solenoid quickly, especially the glow plug one, is if it chatters. I've noticed that sometimes on Fords the solenoid chatters when it disengages.

Larry M · 12-17-2002, 02:52 PM

Rob and others,

There are a couple of good GPR threads

 HERE, HERE, and HERE

Larry

Larry M · 11-10-2003, 12:41 PM

Rob or anyone else,

I've resurrected this thread so we keep the subject in one place and it's getting that time of year again. This will be my third winter on my original GPR and I think I might pick up a spare from IH once I can determine which to get.

Basic question is exactly where is this bugger on our Vans and how hard is it to change. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif[/img]

Also, who have replaced them and how long have they lasted [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif[/img] ... haul_n_horses2 has an active thread over in the 7.3L Engine forum where his supposedly superior Stancor GPR only last 1 month [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif[/img]

Thanks,

Larry

DieselDeaf · 11-10-2003, 03:43 PM

It is in exactly the same place as a truck. OK, if you don't have a truck it is just beside the passenger valve cover, over the intake plenum, towards the front. It is not easily accessed, I got to mine after pulling the resonator and intake hoses off. While you are in there you should check each glowplug for proper resistance through the pins in the valve cover harnesses. The glowplug terminals are the end prongs on either end of the four valve cover plugs. The three in the middle of each plug are for the injectors. My bet is you will have at least one bad somewhere and it will require either a new valve cover gasket, a new under valve cover harness or a repair to the engine harness. Keep your fingers crossed though and you may be lucky!!

As far as GP relays go, I have had good luck with both the IH ones and the Motorcraft ones, probably the same thing.

E350PSD · 11-10-2003, 09:41 PM

[ QUOTE ]
Basic question is exactly where is this bugger on our Vans and how hard is it to change.

[/ QUOTE ]

It’s located between the resonator and alternator, passenger side. The intake heater relay (IHR) and GPR are mounted together. The IHR is much taller and in front of the GPR.

I believe newer vans, late 00’/01’, have a combine solid-state module for the GPR & IHR. This module is very expensive.

Anyway, my resonator won’t come out unless the turbo is removed first. So accessing the GPR from the doghouse is impossible. I replaced mine through the hood by removing the air cleaner assembly and alternator. Be sure to disconnect both batteries before doing this – lots of hot circuits in this area.

I had to remove the IHR first to get to the GPR. Both were difficult to remove because of access. If you drop something it will end up in the valley and your pain level increases dramatically. Odds are you’ll being doing this when it’s cold out making it much more difficult – poor dexterity.

After reading all the threads about GPRs it appears they either work for a long time or die young. I thought about the Stancor alternative but went with the Ford replacement. This is my second season and it’s still working correctly.

As I pointed out my back-up is starting fluid. I used this method for a week before I could get the GPR replaced. Please note this is a very dangerous method. If either the GPR or IHR are ON you will have explosive results.