Head light conversion - Diesel Forum

dutydave · 12-08-2007, 04:55 PM

I want to replace my sealed beam head lights on my 2003 E 350 with some thing that I will be able to see with at night. If I replace them with the oem euro style lamp assembly with these be Brighter or should I be looking for some thing else. If I was to just swap out the oem sealed beams with the all plastic style do I need any other parts besides the lights?

Super_Dave · 12-08-2007, 06:30 PM

Well, if you want to do HID's with the square beam, it is doable.
http://www.suvlights.com/product_inf...eff01a84a8ad33

If you go with a new off shore housing off ebay then some bulbs, it will be good. Putting HID's in that won't work as well as doing the replacement above because the reflectors aren't made for HID. It's is different.

Mr_Roboto · 12-08-2007, 06:43 PM

I have the same question, my buddy has an 04-ish Econoline truck that has the sealed beams, and he complains he can't see nearly as well as in his Superduty pickup with the aero lights.

What all do you have to change besides the lights themselves?

dutydave · 12-08-2007, 09:27 PM

Ok You have confused me. If I remove the stock sealed beam light and try to install a stock plastic lens type light and a bulb that is isntalled from the rear of the plastic can I do this with no problems?

Jakey · 12-09-2007, 12:27 AM

The factory composite assemblies are brighter, or at least put out a better light pattern. For reference, I use the higher output Sylvania 9007 bulbs.
I had Sylvania Xtravision halogen sealed beams which weren't as good as the factory composite headlamps.

The header panel has segments where two long steel slide clips are installed to secure the headlamp "pegs." The steel slide clips are for bulb replacement, slide them up and the lamp comes out, slide them down to lock the lamp in. There's 3 pegs on each headlight; fixed length; straight adjustable(horizontal aim); and right angle adjustable(side-side aim.)
You will need connectors for the bulbs too, my recommendation if using butt splices is to get the ones that have heat shrink insulation built in.

IIRC Green is High beam; Red is Low beam; Black is Ground.

Another way of getting better power output is installing a relay system that minimizes loss through the factory wiring and switchgear.

Mr_Roboto · 12-09-2007, 12:49 AM

So the header panels are the same and you have to add the "pegs" for attachment of the aero lights?

Jakey · 12-09-2007, 09:48 AM

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Mr_Roboto</div><div class="ubbcode-body">So the header panels are the same and you have to add the "pegs" for attachment of the aero lights? </div></div>
Yes, if the headlamp doesn't have them.
The pegs twist-lock into the backside of the headlamp.

Mr_Roboto · 12-09-2007, 10:37 AM

OK thanks. I was going to try to find used parts for my buddy just wanted to know exactly what I needed to remove from donor vehicle.

Super_Dave · 12-11-2007, 07:50 PM

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: dutydave</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Ok You have confused me. If I remove the stock sealed beam light and try to install a stock plastic lens type light and a bulb that is isntalled from the rear of the plastic can I do this with no problems? </div></div>

I think the link I posted would replace the OEM Ford square sealed beam with a real HID replacement that is complete. So, the focal points of the reflector and all is made for the HID lighting.

Personally, I don't think the molded OEM Ford light is really great. The OEM ones seem to be diffused a whole lot more than they should be. I bought some clear lights off Ebay for $100 a pair. Those helped me get more of the light out onto the road where the OEM ones didn't.

Maybe this link will help with understanding what I did. There wasn't a good way to do HID's.
http://visionsportsridingschools.com/headlights.html

Late99EconoWagon73 · 12-14-2007, 09:53 AM

Pretty sure that changing from the sealed beams to the factory composite headlamp assemblies will also require a change to the wiring harness as I believe the connectors at the headlamps are different. Not sure if this requires just a short jumper harness change or some custom splicing...

I was actually considering changing from the composite lights to sealed beams as I don't really like the beam pattern of the composites and thought maybe I could find some sealed beams that had a better pattern... Maybe not...

Good to hear that the header panels are the same either way. Just need to see what mouning parts are required for the sealed beams and what wiring changes may be required.

Good luck with the conversion! Stu

Mr_Roboto · 12-14-2007, 10:28 AM

The wiring connectors are a simple cut and splice. They are both 3 wires, just different ends.

I bought an ex ambulance that had been stripped down and I had to change over because the parts truck I used had the sealed beams.

fordnut350 · 12-20-2007, 02:51 AM

I changed out the sealed beams to composite on a 95 E-350. The header was the same, but I did need to change the headlight plugs. I found a pair on a 90's Ford Taurus at the wrecking yard for cheap. I also had to buy the retainers that hold the lights in place from Ford. Each side took two and the are an L shape piece of sheet metal with two slots in it. They cost me like $90 for the four at the stealership, could have found them for less, but didn't want to wait.