E-Series VansTechnical discussion of topics related to vans powered by any of the Navistar engines. This covers a broad number of years, but there isn't enough demand to split it any further.
so I had a new tranny installed cause I smoked the other
van seemed to run fine before it was installed
try and start to test drive and the pass side of the motor runs no different whether the valve cover plugs are plugged in or not
I have started the process of taking the valve cover off
(is there a secret on these vans for getting to the bolts besides a extension and swivel?)
what are the chances of all this hapening at once
is it normal for front and back to go out like this?
seemed to have good power before is it possible one set was out and I didnt realize it or is it common when these go bad its the whole side that screws up???????
or am I barking up the wrong tree
injector driver? something in the harness a ground?
something else?
thanks guys
it started hard about 2weeks ago and I have used starting fluid in the cold a couple times if that matters
oh and it didnt throw any codes and I already disconnected the batteries praying for a reset
Ussually when one goes bad they are all going bad.Everything that is connected to the valve covers must be removed . Clean everything AND be meticulous on your dissassembly and replace all fasteners that look baked .I took the intake boots and Turbo off because I had a Major fuel leak and had to remove Filterbowl assembly . My fuel lines were rotten . I changed ALL the fuel lines and rebuilt the filterbowl completely. The secret for the covers is removal of AC compressor and alternator.I removed the harness when I did mine to check everything.I also removed both front engine brackets to repair /Install the new lines in the front and the EBP tube and sensor. That means empting about half a pail of coolant and the top rad hose as well. If you take the intake boots make sure you duct tape them up so crap does not fall into the engine . For Valve cover removeal Use 1/4 drive ratchets with universals and palm ratchets with various extensions. I used 1/2 in. copper pipe as ahelper on the end of the ratchet to remove the stubborn ones. My hands are XXL. Tape the stuff together so you don't loose stuff down the frame. Passenger side is the Hardest so do it first. You might need the harness repair kits forthe main harness. Buy Ford Under Valve harnesses NOT Delphi. Good time to change gaskets too. I changed every godammgasket / O-ring there was because thats the way I am. I feel that it takes so long to get to the godamm things you might as well make sure you only do it once. Also check Glow plugs while you are there to ensure they are good, because if you don't you will have to do it again. If you smell the connectors and they smell burn't you should change everything. Buy one of those magnetic pick-up thingys because you WILL drop about 10 thing in the engine valley before you are done so it's well worth the money . TORQUE EVERYTHING CORRECTLY
I even painted my covers for that glamourous look !
Goodluck and be patient and Beer cures all wounds [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/warmsmile.gif[/img]
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95 E350 PSD HD Cargo , BB shim , E4OD , B&M aluminium Trans pan , Twin HD coolers , Cat sleeps with the fishes , 3:55 D70FF, Michelin LTX " E " , DP flashed 60 Tow , 140 V idm , Autometer Triple Pillar Guage pod , New Injector O-rings /IPR /lift pump / filterbowl @ 235K , Timbrens SES kit , replaced lift pump /ICP/ IDM @ 256 K
1977 F350 Dually Dump , 460 , 429 POLICE heads , 4:56 D70FF, Edelbrock Intake , Holley 850 dbl pmper ,MSD IGN , Custom HiPo C-6 Trans , Dual Exhausts , Bridgestone "E" Tires
1983 KZ1000R , Yoshimura Stage I
1982 KZ1000 , 1045 Wiseco , Turbo ready
1990 KX500
it is the pass side thats dead
unfortunately I am 2500 miles from home and dont have the time or money to replace alot I just dropped 2500 on a tranny and install plus extra week in hotel and all exp.. that go with it......
the plug and wires dont look bad at all they arent melted or anything
Have you tried to post this on one of the Engine and Drivetrain forums? Sounds like your problem is not van specific and you might get some more help there...
Sorry I can't be more help myself, but I'm pretty new to this stuff...
Good Luck. Stu
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1999.5 E-350 XLT Extended 12 Passenger Wagon 7.3PSD. 100% stock except for dual K&Ns, but looking to change that...
Is the inner plug, under the valve cover, secure? They have been known to come off over time and kill one side of the motor?
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Hypermax stage 2 injectors, 4" intake with Ram scoupe, QSSB Turbo, Snow Meth inj, BTS trans no spacer, Salem Kroger 4x4, Sway and traction bars, APX drivers seat, 4" straight exhaust & DP, 4" lift, 18" wheels with 325 nittos, custom valve Bilsteins, DP PCM and F5
...Stuff to make it almost as fast as a pickup.
everything was snapped together when I tookit apart
ok put a meter on center shows ground out 2 (gp) show ground?
while cranking the driver side jumps the meter when set at 15v dc
pass side does nothing not even a twitch
Dipaco is the most reasonable for IDM's. Glad to hear you solved the problem. When you install the new one run a bead of RTV sealant around it. Vans have a tendancy of IDM failures due to water getting in them due to the design of the hood/valance. I was going to suggest IDM but since your VAn is newer than mine I thought it was OK. I'm on my third IDM (225 k ). [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/warmsmile.gif[/img]
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95 E350 PSD HD Cargo , BB shim , E4OD , B&M aluminium Trans pan , Twin HD coolers , Cat sleeps with the fishes , 3:55 D70FF, Michelin LTX " E " , DP flashed 60 Tow , 140 V idm , Autometer Triple Pillar Guage pod , New Injector O-rings /IPR /lift pump / filterbowl @ 235K , Timbrens SES kit , replaced lift pump /ICP/ IDM @ 256 K
1977 F350 Dually Dump , 460 , 429 POLICE heads , 4:56 D70FF, Edelbrock Intake , Holley 850 dbl pmper ,MSD IGN , Custom HiPo C-6 Trans , Dual Exhausts , Bridgestone "E" Tires
1983 KZ1000R , Yoshimura Stage I
1982 KZ1000 , 1045 Wiseco , Turbo ready
1990 KX500
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