E-Series VansTechnical discussion of topics related to vans powered by any of the Navistar engines. This covers a broad number of years, but there isn't enough demand to split it any further.
I'm 1500 miles from home with a 1995 e-350 powerstroke Born Free RV 120K that won't start when warm. It starts and runs fine all day but won't restart until the temp guage is back to cold. It's been doing this for 2 days.
I stopped at a Ford dealer in El Paso today and they ran a scan when the engine wasn't running that kicked the code PO478 and said that wasn't the start problem (EPB control valve). They wanted to start a tear down to check for a high pressure fuel leak and that would be another $200 and it was most likely going to be expensive when they did find the problem so I said "no thanks" paid them $132 and waited for the truck to cool down and drove down the road to an RV park where I am now.
I plan on installing a spare cam sensor that I carry in the morning to see if that helps.
Any ideas or leads on a good mechanic in the El Paso area?
Thanks, Bob [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/sick.gif[/img]
This is just a guess with my limited knowledge of PSD's.
I'm thinking maybe a worn out HPOP is not building enough pressure with hot, thin oil at cranking RPM's. But once the oil cools down it gets more pressure, enough for the injectors to fire.
Who did the last oil change? Is it possible that they used a thinner car type oil? I believe the new Fords are spec'ing 0w20.
Back in '02 I bought a new PSD and for my first oil change I underfilled the oil (thinking it used the same 10-11 qt as my old 6.9 I had at the time) and the motor threw a fit, it cranked a long time to start.
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1985 International rollback, 6.9L 5 speed "Li'l Big Truck"
I have to agree with Madvan. Its probably the O-rings in the IPR. You can find them on E-bay quite regularly. You have to drain the oil in the HPOP resevoir first before you change it. Removing the filterbowl assembly is the easiest way to access the IPR. It depends how mechanical you are and how big your hands are.
Good Luck
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95 E350 PSD HD Cargo , BB shim , E4OD , B&M aluminium Trans pan , HD cooler , Cat sleeps with the fishes , 3:55 D70FF, Michelin LTX " E " ,Not installed yet DP flashed PCM (60 Tow )Autometer Triple Pillar Guage pod , New Injector O-rings /IPR /lift pump / filterbowl @ 235K
1977 F350 Dually Dump , 460 , 429 POLICE heads , 4:56 D70FF, Edelbrock Intake , Holley 850 dbl pmper ,MSD IGN , Custom HiPo C-6 Trans , Dual Exhausts , Bridgestone "E" Tires
1983 KZ1000R , Yoshimura Stage I
1982 KZ1000 , 1045 Wiseco , Turbo ready
1990 KX500
It's not the oil. I just changed it and it's full.
I called a person on the help list and he gave me the name of a good mechanic about 20 miles from here so I'm on my way there now.
I checked the IPR and it's not loose or leaking so I think it's time for a mechanic.
Thanks for all the help and I'll let you know what the problem was.
Bob
bob kir, you said its been this way the last two days? This is when it started to act up? is this when the oil was changed? I heard from head mechanic at ford dealer tell me , he has gotten some bad off-make-filters that has caused problems. (just a shot in the dark, even though I would think it would be affected hot or cold) Also, if it did just start in last two days, was there any other thing which was done/worked on?
The oil was changed 1500 miles ago before I left MI. I have been using Mobile Delvac 1300 for the last 100K so I don't think that is the problem. The oil filter is a Ford Motorcraft.
It ran fine for the first 1400 miles after the oil change. The problem started after I got to texas.
The Ford dealer i took it to today first said it was injector O rings or high pressure fuel pump and the IPR was good. Then they said it was the IPR and high pressure fuel pump and they would replace both at the same time because they always do it that way because they are "old". $1800 for the whole job! $620 for IPR and $790 for a rebuilt pump. That sounds like a lot for an IPR if you can buy a rebuid kit for under $20.
Will it do any harm to continue driving it? I have an EGT gauge and the temps haven't changed. It seems to run fine. Could it get to the point where it will stop running altogether?
My options are to head home and repair it myself. I have a shop and have been a motorcycle mechanic for 20 years. Haven't worked on diesels but it looks doable.
I could continue west and try and find a shop that would start by changing the IPR and not the pump to see if that is the problem.
I have until Monday morning to decide.
Thanks for all the input.
Bob
You can buy the parts for half the price you were quoted on quite a few different websites. Its not that hard a job if you are meticuous with torquing , cleaning and dissasembly. You basically have to remove the filterbowl assembly and part of the intake system to access all the lines , wires and hoses you have to disconnect. You could do it in a weekend easy , going real I mean real slow.
I boughtmy IPR for 100 brand newin the Ford package and have seen HPOP pumps for 300 - 500. You will also need about 2-3 ft of 400 psi fuel line and good clamps. You can get the pump TESTED for proper pressure almost anywhere with a good scantool. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smokin.gif[/img]
Goodluck
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95 E350 PSD HD Cargo , BB shim , E4OD , B&M aluminium Trans pan , HD cooler , Cat sleeps with the fishes , 3:55 D70FF, Michelin LTX " E " ,Not installed yet DP flashed PCM (60 Tow )Autometer Triple Pillar Guage pod , New Injector O-rings /IPR /lift pump / filterbowl @ 235K
1977 F350 Dually Dump , 460 , 429 POLICE heads , 4:56 D70FF, Edelbrock Intake , Holley 850 dbl pmper ,MSD IGN , Custom HiPo C-6 Trans , Dual Exhausts , Bridgestone "E" Tires
1983 KZ1000R , Yoshimura Stage I
1982 KZ1000 , 1045 Wiseco , Turbo ready
1990 KX500
Bob
They dont know what it is and sounds like they want to throw parts at it.
Have you noticed the loss of oil during trip? You would lose oil into the fuel system and burn it.
I would drain the fuel filter to see its color. If its black it could be o-rings
The o-rings can leak one way or another.
1- oil leak into fuel---Black fuel,loss of eng oil, ex smoke.
2- fuel leak into oil---oil rises in oil pan,smell of diesel in the oil, poor mpg.
If you donot have above its not inj o-rings.
To run fine and have bad hot starts i go right for the IPR.
Bill
OK --Good Sign--Smell the eng oil.
Now go drain some fuel out of the water seperator. Clear container so we can see the color.
If your eng oil is real clean you might not be able to see it in the fuel.
Oil pressure is higher than fuel pressure so oil will go into fuel. You have not lost oil so i would say your o-rings (inj) are fine.
I would bet if you were to drain the HPOP while motor is hot and filled it with fresh oil it would start/stall/sputter.
You have been to 2 dealerships and still no Diagnosis--Ford BS
I would stop by and international dealer get an IPR o-ring kit and go for it. Or give the RV to them for repair.
Good Luck
Bill
Bob
Here are the numbers for the places I was telling you about last night
Westside Trucks 877-647-5600 its the one just up the road a little bit from the dealer you were at.
Boarder International 800-678-7007, they are in Las Cruces seem to be a decent outfit, it is were we take our Firetrucks for warrenty work.
Valley Diesel 505-525-3998, the shop outside of Las Cruces I talked about,
Give me a call and let me how I mite be able to help if I can.
Stay safe out there
Roy [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif[/img]
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ALL GAVE SOME, SOME GAVE ALL 9-11 WE WILL NOT FORGET YOU BROTHERS!!
96 C.C.XLT, SRW, Short Bed, 3:55, Rebuit E4OD with Transgo shift kit & Tru-Cool Max cooler, Home made Open Air Element, H-Max downpipe, 4" straight piped, Tony's Wildmans 4 position chip, A-Piller with Auto Meter Z-Serries Pryo, EGT, and Trannie gauages, Gooseneck, Ride-Rite Air bags, Nerf Bars, Home built custom headache rack, 60 Gallon Aux. fuel tank, front bumper,and rear bumper....
Member of IAFF Local 2362 (International Association of FireFighters) My Truck Work Truck
Bob
Here http://cw-diesel.com/LuxSite/IPRInfo.htm http://forums.thedieselstop.com/ubbthrea...&PHPSESSID=
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Found an easy IPR test.-----Thank You LARRY (little secrets)
Motor hot/cold test.
I would test 2 times 1hot 1cold to see if motor does same at time of unpluging.
While motor is running remove the connection off of the IPR.
Motor should stall if IPR is good. (holds oil)
Motor will run or ruff idle with bad IPR. (leaks oil)
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If you do above test you will know if its the pump or the regulator