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E-Series Vans Technical discussion of topics related to vans powered by any of the Navistar engines. This covers a broad number of years, but there isn't enough demand to split it any further.

       
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Old 06-27-2005, 06:43 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Horn inop and brake rotors

Hi All!
1. My horn quit. Relay clicks. Any idea where horn is??

2. Brake rotors warped again. Dealer cut them twice under warranty. Suggestions welcome as to where I go from here.

Many thanks!
Marty
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Old 06-28-2005, 12:51 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Re: Horn inop and brake rotors

Did the dealer install new rotors first time is that why the warranty. If so I think he may have used Chinaman or Meksico made, request the Moog or OEM Ford as they must be pretty thin now. One other thing could be your rear brakes are not adjusted up and taking their fair share of the load.
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Old 06-28-2005, 06:48 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Re: Horn inop and brake rotors

Dealer would not replace rotors. Only cut them twice!! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img]
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Old 06-28-2005, 09:03 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Re: Horn inop and brake rotors

Too bad about rotors........ the horns are usually placed under the batteries different sides different truck years.... [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img] Check the engine compartment fuse box for relay and a 20 amp fuse.. does the Speed control work it's on the same fuse in my truck 93.
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Old 06-28-2005, 06:29 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Re: Horn inop and brake rotors

If I may; rotors don't warp, they get brake pad material built up on them and it feels like they're warped. I would first ask what material the pads were. If they were organic, or cheap, the problem occurs much faster. Rotors can only be turned to a certain size, so if your rotors can be turned again, have them turned. Unless they're deeply gouged there is very little material removed.

Then demand a high quality semi-metallic, or semi ceramic pad and bed them in correctly.

The single biggest reason people complain about warped rotors is because the new rotors/pads weren't bedded in correctly. Use the 30/30/30 method, it's easy to remember. 30 stops from 30 mph with 30 seconds cool down time in between.

The most important thing is to not come to a complete stop in between stops. That is when most material transfer occurs. Blazing hot rotors with blazing hot pads pressed against them, this is where 90% of the damage is done. So get up to 30 and mash the brakes, don't skid, but brake hard. Right before you come to a complete stop let off the brakes and roll out. Speed up after thirty seconds of coasting and do it again 29 times. You will then be able to use your brakes with vigor and will get very little warp-feel.

When my van brakes are hot I never come to a complete stop at a light or at a sign. I stop 10 yards back and slowly creep forward. So my hot pads are never pressed against hot rotors. Our vans are heavy, with alot of weight up fron so the front brakes take alot of beating. Try this, you'll be glad you did.
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