HPOP info? - Diesel Forum

natsys · 09-17-2009, 07:41 PM

I've searched this site pretty good, and the only info I can find on HPOPs is pretty generic to the 7.3. I'm hoping I can get some input on specifics for the E series.

I had that big oil leak that ran down the back of the engine and dripped off the starter motor and blew all over the oil and tranny pans. Checking here revealed that I should delay blaming the rear main seal and take a good look at the top of the motor--sure enough, when I cleaned out the mouse nest there it was loaded with oil. Looking forward under the turbo, it appears that there is a drip coming off of the HPOP. I can't see it at idle, I can only see a residual drip after driving.

One source I really respect advises change the HPOP NOW! It will likely strand me. From what I've read here, I'm wondering if I should try to replace any o-rings or lines. Working on it is a real PITA so I don't want to do the job now and then again in 6 months. Any experience with HPOP leaks in the later 7.3's? Mine is a 2003 E450 with 71K, and it is a work vehicle, so it has to be ready to go every day. Funny thing is that the leak was pretty bad on Monday, leaving small puddles under the van--especially after highway driving. Now, on Thursday and more highway driving, not a drip. This kinda has me stumped.

One other note. I put in a DP Tuner chip about 3 months ago. Jody worked up some concoction to increase my fuel economy. Since I normally get around 10 mpg and now I'm about 11 I'd guess 10% improvement is pretty good. Did higher HPOP pressures cause a leak? Thanks in advance for any suggestions offered.

blageurt · 09-17-2009, 08:53 PM

I think your model has o-rings . witht only 71 K or so I severely doubt you need a new HPOP, They last at least 100K IF you change the oil as specified in the manual ( 5000 miles Normal service , and 3000 miles Severe service ). Take the lines off and replace the o-rings on both ends and maby inspect the ICP o-ring along with the IPR and you should be done . International is cheaper for the o-rings . Ford wants 5 bucks for 2 and International sells them in 10 for like 3 bucks. . .Good luck

Matt0987 · 09-17-2009, 08:58 PM

Ok, HPOP? What does this acronym stand for?

Evel486 · 09-17-2009, 09:41 PM

High Pressure Oil Pump. Supplies oil at pressures varying from 500-3000 psi to operate the injectors.

natsys · 09-18-2009, 07:15 AM

I thought that 71K was a little soon to blow something so important as the HPOP, but I'm a little in the dark about such things. And yes, I do change the oil every 5K. I've also heard that the new CJ-4 oils don't contain the lubricants our pre-2007 engines need and that CI-4 is preferred. Next oil change I'm going to try to find some--it can't hurt.

Does the pump have to come out to change the o-rings, or can it be done on the vehicle?

Matt0987 · 09-18-2009, 12:18 PM

You may want to check out; CJ-4 WEBSITE
See the FAQ section.

Another site to look at is; Whitfield Oil Company: Understanding API CJ-4

I googled "cj-4 vs ci-4 oils" and got those sites.

It seems that, according to the first FAQ #6, the new oil meets more difficult standards because of the more sensitive engine parts.

In some jargon you might say that they are declaring it backwards compatable.

Jason01stroke · 09-18-2009, 03:22 PM

if u need to replace the HPOP i would look at one from dieselsite.com

blageurt · 09-18-2009, 10:26 PM

No the pump stays where it is . The o-rings are on the lines itself at either end , along with the ICP and the oil rail plugs on each head . . .

Yardbrew · 09-21-2009, 05:18 AM

Natsys,

Keep us posted on how you make out on this problem.

It's good info for the forum.

Yardbrew

natsys · 09-21-2009, 06:09 PM

Will do. Was away for the weekend, but the leak has slowed considerably. I'll order an o-ring kit and schedule some time to install--probably based on how bad (or not) the problem continues to be. In the meantime, I'll monitor the oil level more carefully.

Matt0987 · 09-21-2009, 07:49 PM

So you have an oil leak down the rear of the engine?

Have you gotten out your handy dandy mirror with the extendable handle on it and looked to see where the leak is coming from?

huj · 09-21-2009, 11:08 PM

i seen one time gasket leaking between hpop and housing wash it out with brake cleen blow out with blow gun run and look with small mirror.

huj · 09-21-2009, 11:10 PM

pull the dog house off look with the flashlight under the turbo look at the hpop pump or check the 2 hoses.

natsys · 09-24-2009, 02:40 PM

I mentioned in my first post that I had only looked at the HPOP from the rear of the engine--pulled off the doghouse and shined a flashlight under the turbo onto the HPOP--but I could only see a drop of oil on the rear of the pump. It was right below the big opening with the retaining clip next to the rear plug. Since the leak isn't bad enough to drip constantly while idling I'm having trouble finding a "smoking gun". I seriously doubt that it's leaking from the retaining clip opening as that's very rare from the research available here--I think the oil is dripping off there because its simply the lowest point on the pump--but as I said, I haven't had a good enough look to conclusively identify the source. The extension mirror is a good idea (why didn't I think of that?) so I'll pull off the intake plumbing and have a look see. Thanks.

natsys · 11-05-2009, 09:16 PM

Well, I finally got some time to see if I can make the oil freckles in my driveway stop appearing. I ordered the o-ring kit from Bob and decided to see what I could see. After removing the filter housing and first intake tube I could see a little better and there was some oil near the pressure lines, so I decided to go ahead and install the o-rings. I had to unbolt the A/C compressor and tilt it down in front of the engine to get at the discharge fittings, but it wasn't too complicated or impossible to work on. The end plug at the back of the HPOP was completely an act of faith as I couldn't see any of it. I let it set overnight to let the locktite dry, filled the reservoir and after some cranking it fired right up. The next time I started it there was some cranking delay but now it fires right away like it always used to. I don't know if I fixed the oil leak or not since I didn't bother to catch all the oil that drained out, so it ought to be a week or so before I can expect it to all drain/fry off of the top of the engine.

Here's what I don't like. I have a dp tuner chip that really gives it a kick. I have to be really careful on take off as the throttle tip in "jumps" or "snaps" when you give it just a little nudge. Since the repair, though, its sluggish on take off. The rest of the range is as I remember it, and it starts right up every time, but it just doesn't seem to have that same kick from a dead stop. When I put the springs back in on the discharge fittings I had to put them in the pump and screw in the fitting afterwards since they wouldn't stay in the fitting at the angle required to screw them in. I assume they seated in the recess of the discharge fittings when I screwed them, but if they didn't could that be causing the output pressure to be restricted? I know I installed them right side up, and I drove it about 30 miles on and off the highway so I don't think there's still air stuck in there.

Any thoughts?