I'm DONE!
I think in total I spent about 15-18hours on it, but a lot of that time was spent consulting the Internet and the workshop manuals. I had never removed the turbo or intake plenum parts and fuel bowl etc. if I were to do it all again I think I could realistically cut my time in half.
Lessons learned:
1) Remove belt, alternator, tensioner and bracket at the very beginning when you remove the airbox. It allows more access to the fuel lines on the fuel bowl and it is necessary for the FRX mod. It also allows MUCH better access to the EBP tube/sensor.
2) silicone plenum boots and t-clamps are well worth the money. I think if I had tried putting it all back together using the cheap stock boots and worm clamps I would have ripped a boot for sure.
3) you NEED a good assortment of wrenches. I used my flex-head ratchet wrenches, my stubby wrenches, my long handled wrenches, crows foot wrenches... Basically I had to use the whole arsenal to get the job done. Everything is just so crammed and awkward on these vans that having the right tool really saves a lot of headache.
4) Basically just ignore most of the FRX instructions. They describe how to install the FRX when the fuel bowl is in the vehicle still. I can't imagine that would be a fun task on a van. Maybe a truck, but it would create a TON of headaches on the van. Just pull the fuel bowl out, install the FRX onto the bowl and then put it back in the van.
Anyways, I have a couple more pictures, but nothing too cool. Just my fuel pressure gauge and my coolant filter.
I bought a 90deg fitting that threads into one of the plugs on the fuel bowl. It converted the threads to 1/8"NPT and also came with a fuel-rated Schrader valve. You could technically just put the fitting and the Schrader onto the bowl but it would be tricky to get to it later to test the pressure. So what I did is thread the 90 onto the bowl, then I used a 1/8NPT to 1/4" hose barb which allowed me to run 1/4" fuel line up into the front of the engine bay. There, I installed a T fitting that has the mechanical gauge and the Schrader threaded into it.
Having the Schrader up at the T by the gauge allowed me to bleed the air from the line easily. It also gives me a test port so I can compare gauge readings if my mechanical gauge ever fails. I'm quite happy with this setup. I also have enough hose so that I can swing the gauge up onto the hood and view it while driving if need be to monitor the pressure under load.
Anyways, all is done now and the van started fine and idles really smooth! I'll take it out for a good run tonight and see how it does and report back.