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HPOP is leaking... What else should I do while I'm in there?

7K views 31 replies 7 participants last post by  StockKnocker 
#1 ·
I recently sprung a fairly substantial leak and I've tracked it down to the HPOP... I didn't get a good enough look to determine exactly what part on it is leaking, but I purchased the complete O-ring set from dieselorings.com and the HPOP gasket and a handful of other goodies. I plan to replace as many O-rings and seals as possible while I'm in there, but is there anything else I should look at doing at the same time?



I also purchased the threaded adapter so that I can add a fuel pressure gauge off the fuel bowl and I will do all the o-rings on the fuel bowl then too.



But are there any worthwhile mods to do at the same time? I already have the international up-pipe kit.



Thanks!
 
#2 ·
Oh and I just purchased a HPX line that I'll install at the same time.

For reference, my van is an 02 E350 with the 7.3 and 4R100 and the Quigley 4x4 conversion.
 
#4 ·
I'll certainly take some pictures along the way... assuming I don't get wrapped up in the project and forget :)

I made another order today... my todo list looks like this:

-Replace as many O-rings as possible (HPOP and Fuel Bowl) using dieselorings.com combo pack
-Clean out fuel bowl
-Clean EBPV sensor and tube
-Install adapter and Schrader test valve onto fuel bowl
-Install HPX line
-Install Riffraff FRx line
-AIH delete
-Riffraff High Flow CVD fitting set
-Install RPD Plenum Reinforcements and T-Clamps
-Put it all back together and hope I fixed the oil leak that started this whole rabbit trail of upgrades... Hahaha

I'm not chasing big HP gains or economy for any of this... (though any mpg gains would always be a welcome change :) ). I just want to make things run smoother/quieter and be a bit more robust than before.
 
#5 ·
Thats a good list to start with! Im hoping to be doing the same thing as I have a very small drip when I park the van and I think a boost leak....maybe but she still run strong.

I didn't see intake boots on your list nor turbo o-rings but maybe you have done those already.

What is the purpose of the riffraff highflow cvd fittings & "Install adapter and Schrader test valve onto fuel bowl"?

Good Luck with it all!
 
#7 ·
No I don't have intake boots on my list... are they a common weakpoint? I haven't looked into them at all TBH...

Turbo Orings are coming in my combo kit from dieselorings.com

This is copied from the Riffraff site regarding the high flow CVD fittings:
By removing the restrictive stock check valve fitting and replacing with our custom machined high flow check valve delete fitting you not only remove considerable turbulence, but also allow more than 3x more flow than stock.

I think they would be a little more important if I was running different injectors, but they're cheap and I figured I can easily do them while I'm in there. It can't hurt to do em.



I just emailed Clay this morning regarding which spring to use with my setup. Thanks!
 
#6 ·
Your Van should run great when you finish.


When you do the Install Riffraff FRx line, some people use the stock spring and some people use the middle spring that comes with the kit. Ask Clay when you go to install it.

Don't throw your stock fuel bowl spring away. Keep it if you use one of the supplied springs.

Your doing a great job, good luck and take your time on the fuel system job.
 
#9 ·
Yeah you should definitely be able to get more boost than that. I can hit 23lbs with my TS Chip set on 75hp (also using my scangauge for the readings)

I think I'll inspect the boots once I get in there... I should be able to source those locally off the shelf at most of the performance shops nearby so I shouldn't have to order them in advance.

FYI I heard back from Riffraff today and they suggest using the gold spring in their FRX kit. I'm using a totally stock fuel system/pump and stock injectors.
 
#10 ·
Boxes are starting to arrive in the mail :) it's a good feeling.

I'm also adding a coolant filter to my todo list for this round of upgrades. I picked up the filter and base at Napa this morning.
 
#11 ·
ert01,

When you go to flush the engine for your new coolant, be sure to locate the two (2) plugs on the bottom of the engine block that allow the water to drain and there will be a bunch of sand and gunk from the cooling system. One near the starter and one near the oil filter.

Gooch coolant flush for the 7.3L engine, to switch from the green coolant to the new Red ELC Coolant. Zerex makes the ELC, CAT makes the ELC coolant, the ELC does not need test strips and additives. It comes pre-mixed and in concentrate gallons. Most people buy the concentrate I believe and add the distilled water. Remember to always use the distilled water for your system. You can back-flush with the tap water, then add the distilled at the end of the flush. Then you buy a new large plastic container to mix your gallons of concentrate with the distilled before you pour in your cooling system. Be sure to buy a new Doorman Degas Bottle with the cap, this way you will have a tight cooling system. Many people have a bad bottle cap and the system will not work well.



http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f47/coolant-changing-instructions-163800/#post1324063

 
#12 ·
Good info!

I started on the van this morning... Still have a long ways to go before I'm done though.

I got a lot of it pulled apart and I have the HPX installed, the plenum reinforcements done, AIH delete done (and code eliminator installed), the resonator box capped off (used a 2" ABS pipe cap... Fit perfect), and I got the EBP system mostly sorted out (cleaned the sensor and the tube, but the exhaust manifold fitting stripped so I need to find a replacement before I can put it back together).

Also, the fuel bowl is out and it's stripped apart and ready for a good cleaning before I re-seal it and put it together.

I also bought some new silicone plenum boots and T-clamps to go in as well as a new serp belt and fuel filter.

I learned today that those High Flow check valves won't be getting installed... The rear one is easy to get to on the passenger side head but the drivers side head is terrible to try and access. It's directly below/behind the AC pump and it is just horrid to try and get a wrench on it. I think I'm going to leave the stock check valves in and I might look at putting these high flow valves in later this spring when I go to refresh my AC system. I'll remove the pump at that time to gain the access I need. I just don't want to get into that right now.

I took a couple pics but I'll get them posted later
 
#14 ·
Pictures!

After removing everything on top of the block, I can finally see daylight from inside the cab!


I found it was really helpful to leave a full set of tools inside the cab as well as a full set outside...


A handful of the stuff I removed. I have a bunch of ziplock bags and as I was removing bolts and pieces, I'd put them in a ziplock and label it. That way I won't forget anything when putting it back together. I labeled the bags with the size of wrench/socket I need too for reassembly. Should make it pretty painless in the end:


Old and dirty:


New and shiny!


I have one table full of parts/orings:


And another table for my workshop manuals/paperwork/laptop:


Cleaning the fuel bowl:


Assembled and clean with the FRX installed and the fitting for my fuel pressure gauge. I chose the lower port (post-filter) because I want the actual pressure of the fuel rails. Pre-filter readings don't really mean much IMHO.


And the pesky EBP tube and the fittings... The old stripped fitting next to the new one. It cost me $1.50 at Princess Auto. For future reference, it is a 1/4" NPTM to 5/16 JIC (37deg) connector.



That's it for now... Gotta go outside and get back to work!
 
#15 ·
A few more pictures...

I ended up taking the alternator and belt tensioner and alternator bracket off (they all use a 13mm deep socket). It made a TON of room! I should have done it right from the start.

I didn't unhook the electrical connections... Just unbolted it and swung it over to the drivers side.


Now, I had really good access to the front port on the passenger side for the FRX to tie into. (I'm pointing at it with my torx wrench in this picture).


And here's the rear port on the drivers side that the FRX ties into. Easy access here.


With the alternator moved, it also gave really good access from the front for the fuel lines on the fuel bowl. When I removed these lines, I did them from the rear, but if I were to do it again if do it from the front.


Here you can see the FRX bolted to the fuel bowl:


Also, removing the alternator/tensioner/mounting bracket gave WAY better access to the EBP sensor and tube.
 
#16 ·
Nice work! Getting dirty and digging right in! I likes! This will definitely help me when I need to do the FRX, turbo o-rings and intake plenum boots. I honestly fear the fuel bowl as I have heard/seen all of the nightmares regarding that as well but removing the alternator seems to be the right way to go for access!
 
#17 · (Edited)
I'm DONE!

I think in total I spent about 15-18hours on it, but a lot of that time was spent consulting the Internet and the workshop manuals. I had never removed the turbo or intake plenum parts and fuel bowl etc. if I were to do it all again I think I could realistically cut my time in half.


Lessons learned:

1) Remove belt, alternator, tensioner and bracket at the very beginning when you remove the airbox. It allows more access to the fuel lines on the fuel bowl and it is necessary for the FRX mod. It also allows MUCH better access to the EBP tube/sensor.

2) silicone plenum boots and t-clamps are well worth the money. I think if I had tried putting it all back together using the cheap stock boots and worm clamps I would have ripped a boot for sure.

3) you NEED a good assortment of wrenches. I used my flex-head ratchet wrenches, my stubby wrenches, my long handled wrenches, crows foot wrenches... Basically I had to use the whole arsenal to get the job done. Everything is just so crammed and awkward on these vans that having the right tool really saves a lot of headache.

4) Basically just ignore most of the FRX instructions. They describe how to install the FRX when the fuel bowl is in the vehicle still. I can't imagine that would be a fun task on a van. Maybe a truck, but it would create a TON of headaches on the van. Just pull the fuel bowl out, install the FRX onto the bowl and then put it back in the van.


Anyways, I have a couple more pictures, but nothing too cool. Just my fuel pressure gauge and my coolant filter.





I bought a 90deg fitting that threads into one of the plugs on the fuel bowl. It converted the threads to 1/8"NPT and also came with a fuel-rated Schrader valve. You could technically just put the fitting and the Schrader onto the bowl but it would be tricky to get to it later to test the pressure. So what I did is thread the 90 onto the bowl, then I used a 1/8NPT to 1/4" hose barb which allowed me to run 1/4" fuel line up into the front of the engine bay. There, I installed a T fitting that has the mechanical gauge and the Schrader threaded into it.

Having the Schrader up at the T by the gauge allowed me to bleed the air from the line easily. It also gives me a test port so I can compare gauge readings if my mechanical gauge ever fails. I'm quite happy with this setup. I also have enough hose so that I can swing the gauge up onto the hood and view it while driving if need be to monitor the pressure under load.


Anyways, all is done now and the van started fine and idles really smooth! I'll take it out for a good run tonight and see how it does and report back.
 
#18 ·
Oh and I forgot to mention, I didn't pull the HPOP at all. It was dry as a bone once I got a really good look at it. The oil leak was a combination of a leaky HPOP reservoir plug o-ring, a leaky seal on a fuel line at the bowl fitting, and my turbo o-rings.

I am still thinking that maybe I should have just pulled it and rebuilt it when I was in there, but part of me feels like I should just leave it alone if it's working fine.

I guess time will tell if I made the right call or not...
 
#19 ·
Good work ! ert01. Funny, I put my cooler filter in same place. I had to fab the bracket. Did you fab your bracket too? Looks identical to mine. I always wanted a fuel gauge in cab, but wanted to tie in one of those oil sending units somewhere & run wires to gauge.(probably not as accurate, but good for reference.)
 
#21 ·
Thanks! This was my first real experience digging into the depths of the beast :)

Yeah I made the mount for the coolant filter out of some 1/8" aluminum plate I had laying around. It fits so nicely there and allows really good access to change the filter in the future.

You can read more about the FRX here:
http://www.riffraffdiesel.com/fuel-rail-crossover-frx/

Basically it allows the fuel heads to have a return path to the bowl and this allows air bubbles to go back to the bowl rather than be forced out through the injectors (causing damage to them). That's the main benefit. The secondary benefit is that you can change the springs to adjust fuel pressure... I believe the 7.3 PSD likes to be between 45-65psi and the stock regulator is set at the low end of that range and can get weaker with time. With the gold spring installed in the FRX, I'm right around 63psi which is a much more optimal pressure.

It provides no filtering. Just replaces the stock pressure regulator with a better system. Kinda like a cheaper version of a regulated return I believe.
 
#22 ·
Great job,

Can you list the exact sizes and the types of silicone boots you used?

And take some pi8cs o9f the FRx installed without the airbox on the van?

Did the metal crossover work with the resonator on?

Good work.
 
#23 ·
The only ones I used so far were the 2 blue ones shown in the pictures for the plenum intakes. They were 3" ID and 2.5" long each.

At some point I would like to change out the elbow that runs from the CCV intake section back to the turbo for a new silicone one as well but that will take a bit more figuring I think. I'll be sure to post sizes for that when I do it.

I have a "b_palmer intake" enroute so I will take more pictures of the FRX when I take out my airbox to install his system.

I am not sure if the resonator box would fit back on. Even without the box on there, the intake tube was tough to get back in place. The line running from the FRX to the rear of the drivers side head is really in the way and it was really tight trying to get the intake tube in place. The hose clamp for the resonator box is riveted to the intake tube and the head of that hose clamp was rubbing against the FRX line. I had to cut the rivet and rotate the clamp so that it didn't rub the FRX line.

I drove the van for half an hour last night... I cannot believe how quiet it idles now. Even my wife commented that the van "just sounds happy". I don't know exactly what component contributed the most towards that, but it is definitely noticeably smoother and quieter. The downside of doing a lot of mods at once is that you can't really pinpoint which mod had which effect... oh well. I'm quite happy with how this all came out. Time will tell if I got the source of my oil leak sorted out, but I'm feeling confident that I got it.
 
#24 ·
Nice Job!
 
#25 ·
ert01, quick question....did you need a special tool to replace the HPx? Alos, did you replace the HPx because it was leaking or you did it because you had everything apart? I just bought some shop manuals and im looking to do the same exact things you did. Also any links for the intake plenum reinforcements, t-clamps and boots? Thanks in advance!
 
#26 ·
The HPX is a new crossover line that is simply added to the engine by screwing it into some ports on the heads that are normally plugged. It requires no special tools... it's a purely bolt-on engine modification. Just remove the plugs and add the new line in. I added it on just because I had everything apart at that point and it was easy to do while I had everything pulled off the engine.

See more here:
Stainless Steel HPX for Ford 7.3L 99-03



If you are digging into the HPOP though, it does require a tool for disconnecting the oil lines.

I bought this one from dieselorings.com when I bought my o-ring kit from them:
#8-6595 HPOP Hose Quick Release Tool



I bought the remainder of my parts from Riffraff:
RDP Plenum Reinforcing Inserts? - Ford 7.3L 99.5-03
Plenum CAC Boot Kit for Ford 7.3L 99.5-03
7.3L Diesel Fuel Rail Crossover? (FRx) 99-03 Powerstroke
AIH Delete Plug for Ford 7.3L 99-03
Air Intake Heater Plug Code Eliminator for Ford 7.3L 99-03


Riffraff also sells the t-clamps but I just got mine locally.
 
#27 ·
Awesome!! Thanks for the links and info!
 
#28 ·
Nice job!

Ert, looking good! You really got after it. So far on my van, what quieted down the cackle the most was doing the Hutch mod. I was wondering if you have done that yet because the fuel pickup and fuel line fittings pre-pump are a crappy design that sucks in tons of air! I am planning on doing the frx and hpx in the near future so I am looking forward to an even smoother idle as you reported. I also have had great luck with using the Napa Echlins CPS that Marylanddieselnick did another great write up on. I have read multiple posts stating that 63-65 psi fuel pressure is right in the sweet spot for fairly stock engines, so you're right on target. Mine runs great right around there too. I wouldn't worry about the banjo bolts too much as there are just as many posts saying they don't make a huge difference at all. I have 2 questions; Did the stainless hpx install fairly easy without any clearance or other troubles? I am interested to hear your feedback on that, as other posts have mentioned buying an oil crossover that was slightly longer (1 1/2" I think) for our vans. And did you find a yard sale worth of stuff in your engine valley? I cleaned mine out when I cleaned and rebuilt my fuel bowl and replaced HPOP. First item I found was the little purple silicon sleeve that is supposed to keep stuff out of the ICP sensor plug! After that, I found a socket, some old fuel bowl drain bolts, etc.! Thanks for posting your pics and results! -Jason
 
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