E-Series VansTechnical discussion of topics related to vans powered by any of the Navistar engines. This covers a broad number of years, but there isn't enough demand to split it any further.
OK, call me a pain in the backside. I am currently running stock fuel lines and have completed the in tank mods (van style of course!). So I go out to fuel up and see if I notice a difference. A some different noises at idle not really a knock - very rythmical and only at idle. After about ten miles on the freeway, things got a little quieter. Now my van wasn't that noisy to begin with but you could easily hear the engine at 65mph. after about 20 miles I started to hear a light roar. It took me another 2 miles to determine that it was my tires. I haven't ever heard my tires when driving this van! By the time I ended my test drive at around 30 miles, I could distinctly hear wind noise from the doors. I was running at about 67 mph and upset that I could hear my tires!!! Imagine that! By the way, on a flat highway at about 67 mph I have to strain to hear the engine--over the tire noise!
Perhaps I should rethink my recommendation of not doing the in tank mods. Silence truly is golden!
Colin
I don't know what else to say. The van is noticibly quieter. If I listen closely I can hear the ticking of what sounds like rockers on a solid lifter engine. When we hooked up the vacuum pump and drew down the stock lines to 20"hg, the only big leak we found was the fuel pump inlet fitting. On my van this is the way the fuel line is routed: tank to A/C type double oring quick disconnect flexible hose. Flexible hose to another quick disconnect(same style) to steel line. Steel line runs along frame rail to about 8" in front of tank where there is another a/c style fitting connecting to a black plastic hose that connects to the fuel pump with a horseshoe type clip. I am going to install the pre pump filter in the short plastic line. It's the easiest place to break into the line and install the filter. It's also where my air leaks.
What else would you like to know?
My van is relatively quite at 65 MPH, I get to 70-72 and I get a droning noise from the exhaust. No tank mods or exhaust. Go past 72 MPH and everything quites down again but wind noise from the mirrors picks up. What the heck, its a truck. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif[/img]
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2003 E350 Super Duty Commercial Extended 7.3L Premium Van Group, 3:55 Posi,Turbo Life Saver, Pioneer MP3, Cobra 75 WXST, New Ford AIC(EBAY $260) Draw-tite Activator II Trailer Brake Controller 5500, Autometer(Boost/Pyro/Trans)K&N Air Filters,3.5" down pipe w/ 4" SST back exhaust,KYB shocks,1.5" rear stablizer
You say that your only air leak is just behind the pump? Interesting... Based upon noticed differences between the van and truck, does this imply that the rest of fuel line is probably "okay?"
Also, where do you intend to mount the filter if you break the line there?
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2001 E350 PSD, Deep Emerald Green, 3.55 LS, Premium package, dual alts, rear A/C. Quigley 4x4, Transfer Flow rear tank (27+26), handicap mods, custom interior, Reunel tire carrier w/ Hi-Lift, Sportsmobile nerf bars (black), Amsoil lubes and Dual-Gard bypass oil filter, Amsoil air filters, Eclipse/JL Audio sound system w/ Sirius & 120GB Neo Car Jukebox (MP3 player), J&J stainless grill, Reunel Stainless bumper, 12000# Warn winch, PIAA lights, Bilstein shocks, Ultra Magnum wheels, Michelin tires (265/75-16), Correctrack rear wheel spacers, Bushwhacker flares (painted), Velvet-Ride spring shackles, p/s filter, external tranny and coolant filters, Autometer gauges(5), Optima Yellow Tops, Airdog.
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Steel line runs along frame rail to about 8" in front of tank where there is another a/c style fitting connecting to a black plastic hose that connects to the fuel pump with a horseshoe type clip. I am going to install the pre pump filter in the short plastic line. It's the easiest place to break into the line and install the filter. It's also where my air leaks.
What else would you like to know?
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My time is always so limited... And I've got a bike to build right now.
Anyway, the air leak is from the plastic line? Or the fittings? My bus is kind of like a big resonator, but if there's anything I can to do quiet it down, I'm game to look at it and give it a whirl.
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Super Dave
2006 E350 6.0PSD
2003 Excursion Limited 4WD 7.3PSD - Sold
1996 E350 Super Duty bus 7.3PSD - Sold
I think the fuel line is ok up to the fuel pump. I am going to remove the short section between the hard line and the fuel pump and insert the filter there. On my van, there is plenty of space to mount the filter base.
youngster
Larry,
Not there was nothing holding the black umbrella on. Yes I'll try to get some pictures of the pan inside the tank when next it comes down. Dennis wants to see it also. I think I have the pan problem figured out see my other post about the van specific mod.
I take it this will be mounted "outside" the frame?
Okay to the fuel pump -- you mean, until the last quick-connect at the fuel pump, which leaks air?
I'm just trying to get this straight, since I'd rather not have to replace the entire pre-pump fuel line if it's not really necessary FOR VANS due to differences in components.
Sounds like you may have hit on something, if that's actually the case. Keep us posted!
--Matt
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2001 E350 PSD, Deep Emerald Green, 3.55 LS, Premium package, dual alts, rear A/C. Quigley 4x4, Transfer Flow rear tank (27+26), handicap mods, custom interior, Reunel tire carrier w/ Hi-Lift, Sportsmobile nerf bars (black), Amsoil lubes and Dual-Gard bypass oil filter, Amsoil air filters, Eclipse/JL Audio sound system w/ Sirius & 120GB Neo Car Jukebox (MP3 player), J&J stainless grill, Reunel Stainless bumper, 12000# Warn winch, PIAA lights, Bilstein shocks, Ultra Magnum wheels, Michelin tires (265/75-16), Correctrack rear wheel spacers, Bushwhacker flares (painted), Velvet-Ride spring shackles, p/s filter, external tranny and coolant filters, Autometer gauges(5), Optima Yellow Tops, Airdog.
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I'm just trying to get this straight, since I'd rather not have to replace the entire pre-pump fuel line if it's not really necessary FOR VANS due to differences in components.
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Once you look at the pre pump line between the tank and the fuel pump you'll find that it's probably eaiser and better to just disconnect everything and run a new 3/8" line.(this will also reduce the pre pump vacuum and help to not release any entrained air). That's what I did and simply left the factory line hard line there and put baggies on it to keep dirt out. Putting aside the issue of these o-rings drying out I can put my system back completely to stock in like 20 minutes. You will need a 3/8 QD disconnect tool to get the QD on top of the tank off. If you don't drop the tank the hardest part is putting the worm clamps on the top of the tank. You can only get one hand up there and really need a second person to hold the clamp in the proper orientation to tighten it ... especially the clamp that goes on the other side of the ridge on the male QD. Just double clamp everything and they go back in a couple of days and the say a week or so and recheck the tightness since the hose will relax some after first tightening the clamps.
Larry
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Larry,
Why run a rubber hose when what is there will work (and doesn't leak)? Based on what I saw and heard when I pumped down the lines with a vacuum pump (to 22"hg), only the one fitting at the fuel pump inlet leaks. To return my system to stock would take me less than 5 minutes which would include unbolting the filter assembly from the frame rail.
Also, I don't know how small your hands are but mine are none too big and there is no way I could get the supply line off the tank without atleast lowering it. Working a hoseclamp and nut driver would be totally out of the question on the top of my tank. Do you have a steel tank or plastic one with a skid plate?
youngster
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