E-Series VansTechnical discussion of topics related to vans powered by any of the Navistar engines. This covers a broad number of years, but there isn't enough demand to split it any further.
The guy that sold it to me handed me the several sets of keys and two push button door keyring unlocks and a magnet to put a key in and under the vehicle so I could get in if locked out. He said the keys were all the same.
Sure enough two days later I'm locked out with no way in because I hadn't put the magnet key holder under the van. Luckily the local police got me in by wedging the drivers door from the top back edge and reaching in with about a four foot piece of rebar, click and we were in in about five seconds.
The passenger door is the only door that will accept a key to open and it broke a few days ago so no key will let me in any door.
Sure enough I locked myself out again, inadvertently bumping the power lock switch getting out I suppose. I had the key in the magnet holder but no lock would accept it. So there I stood.
Luckily I was at home and having seen the cop put the wedge in and reach in there with a bar and hit the power door lock, I did the same thing and after a few tries and kids all over the place and in the rain I got in the same way the cop did. No damage done.
One of my pushbutton door lock key holder works and the other doesn't, I put new batteries in both.
So I hold onto the one battery operated hand key holder door lock with my life. I will not be so lucky next time.
How can I cure this problem. I need to be able to keep my motor running while parked here in the winter or I would disable the locks and the problem would be solved.
We have some "theft" problems around here and I don't want to leave it unlocked unless I have too.
I have a "club" theft control bar lock for the steering wheel and I am also putting a bicycle cable lock on the steering wheel to the door panel opening so the theft problem except by experts is solved.
I hate having everything riding on that one battery operated key ring.
Does anybody have a cure for this, are these door handles and locks very fixable or are they hundreds of dollars for a fix.
I got to do something, a work around or a fix.
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Bumper to bumper, Full Synthetic!!! Rotella T 5-40(7.3L) -- Mobil 1 Mercon V(E40D) -- Amsoil Extreme 75-90(Danas 60) -- Detroit Lakes, Minnesota -- "Boating has always been a rich mans hobby". -- 1996 E350 XLT Club Wagon 15 Passenger Van. -- Purchased 10-21-2009 for $700 cash with 620,000 miles on it! -- It's mint and beautiful! -- I love it! -- I am 64 years old and a professional mechanic and truck driver for over 45 years. --I am now a rich man driving a $50,000 prime time Ford that gets 21 MPG(HWY) & 16 MPG(Town).
hmm, disconnect the power lock linkage for each door. check the door locks manually and see if they work, if not replace the key lock itself. typically when the door lock actuators go bad, it creates havoc locking and unlocking with a key, remote, or keyless entry with just about any ford.
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1995 Ford E350 cutaway, 7.3L DI Turbo, E40D, 4.10 Posi, SRW, ambulance prep package. Wheeled Coach box.
hmm, disconnect the power lock linkage for each door. check the door locks manually and see if they work, if not replace the key lock itself. typically when the door lock actuators go bad, it creates havoc locking and unlocking with a key, remote, or keyless entry with just about any ford.
Thanks, I will try that.
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Bumper to bumper, Full Synthetic!!! Rotella T 5-40(7.3L) -- Mobil 1 Mercon V(E40D) -- Amsoil Extreme 75-90(Danas 60) -- Detroit Lakes, Minnesota -- "Boating has always been a rich mans hobby". -- 1996 E350 XLT Club Wagon 15 Passenger Van. -- Purchased 10-21-2009 for $700 cash with 620,000 miles on it! -- It's mint and beautiful! -- I love it! -- I am 64 years old and a professional mechanic and truck driver for over 45 years. --I am now a rich man driving a $50,000 prime time Ford that gets 21 MPG(HWY) & 16 MPG(Town).
hmm, disconnect the power lock linkage for each door. check the door locks manually and see if they work, if not replace the key lock itself. typically when the door lock actuators go bad, it creates havoc locking and unlocking with a key, remote, or keyless entry with just about any ford.
How do I find and disconnect the power lock linkage at each door? I got to do something.
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Bumper to bumper, Full Synthetic!!! Rotella T 5-40(7.3L) -- Mobil 1 Mercon V(E40D) -- Amsoil Extreme 75-90(Danas 60) -- Detroit Lakes, Minnesota -- "Boating has always been a rich mans hobby". -- 1996 E350 XLT Club Wagon 15 Passenger Van. -- Purchased 10-21-2009 for $700 cash with 620,000 miles on it! -- It's mint and beautiful! -- I love it! -- I am 64 years old and a professional mechanic and truck driver for over 45 years. --I am now a rich man driving a $50,000 prime time Ford that gets 21 MPG(HWY) & 16 MPG(Town).
I have the door panel off and I am in there. Passenger side front door.
The key works in the lock and pushes the button up and down but it does not let the door handle from the outside open the door. The inside door handle works perfect.
The button on my key ring also pushes the button up and down just like all of the doors. All of the other doors will open with the outside handle when unlocked.
NO DOOR will open with the key when they are locked, the only thing that works is the remote control. It unlocks all the doors and they all will open except the one I'm working on. So if that button don't work or gets misplaced or lost or decides not to work or the battery in the van or the button goes dead I am locked out. No good. I don't want to have to bust a window. I will be alright with it not locking any door if I have too, that will be OK, need be.
The door handle from the outside acts funny.
I can't figure out how to unhook the actuator and try what you thought might help.
I think the door handle linkage itself is messed up and everything else is OK.
I would like to disable a door that can't lock itself under any conditions, buttons, keys or anything else and this is what I would like to do with this door or another door if the handle is to messed up on this one so that I can NOT be locked out of my van. This one is all apart it would be ideal.
Any suggestions?
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Bumper to bumper, Full Synthetic!!! Rotella T 5-40(7.3L) -- Mobil 1 Mercon V(E40D) -- Amsoil Extreme 75-90(Danas 60) -- Detroit Lakes, Minnesota -- "Boating has always been a rich mans hobby". -- 1996 E350 XLT Club Wagon 15 Passenger Van. -- Purchased 10-21-2009 for $700 cash with 620,000 miles on it! -- It's mint and beautiful! -- I love it! -- I am 64 years old and a professional mechanic and truck driver for over 45 years. --I am now a rich man driving a $50,000 prime time Ford that gets 21 MPG(HWY) & 16 MPG(Town).
Last edited by midwestconnection; 11-26-2009 at 06:33 PM.
I pulled the fuse for the door locks and the door windows in the fuse box by the brake peddle.
I can no longer lock my van or use the power windows but I can't be locked out either unless we lock all three doors after getting out or lock the side door from the inside and the back door from the inside and then go out the drivers door and push it's lock down too. -- Not likely to happen, especially when we know what a nightmare it is to get locked out. If it did happen I would have to bust a window I guess to get in.
Major problem temporarily solved. I do miss being able to lock up and use my windows though.
I'm no body man!
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Bumper to bumper, Full Synthetic!!! Rotella T 5-40(7.3L) -- Mobil 1 Mercon V(E40D) -- Amsoil Extreme 75-90(Danas 60) -- Detroit Lakes, Minnesota -- "Boating has always been a rich mans hobby". -- 1996 E350 XLT Club Wagon 15 Passenger Van. -- Purchased 10-21-2009 for $700 cash with 620,000 miles on it! -- It's mint and beautiful! -- I love it! -- I am 64 years old and a professional mechanic and truck driver for over 45 years. --I am now a rich man driving a $50,000 prime time Ford that gets 21 MPG(HWY) & 16 MPG(Town).
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