E-Series VansTechnical discussion of topics related to vans powered by any of the Navistar engines. This covers a broad number of years, but there isn't enough demand to split it any further.
Now I'm really confused. I thought that E vans didn't have intercoolers and that was why the engines were detuned. But, my 04' donor van clearly has an intercooler placed right behind the radiator. Since I'm pulling the motor, should I consider doing any mods ? And as long as exhaust temps are in check why not up the power ?
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93 E-350 Sportsmoblie, 4x4 7.3idi, non -turbo
The vans run reduced power because they can't get enough air through the engine compartment to cool. More power = more heat = more problems. So Ford reduced the power to the same as IH on the same engine.
Mike
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04 E-350 Ext. 6.0L PSD 4.10LS 9700# w/driver
Sportsmobile camper conversion w/penthouse top
125W solar panel. Sportsmobile off-road trailer.
54,311 miles. 16.47 mpg average
From Cal to Alaska and Key West and points in between
Salem Kroger coil spring 4wd conversion - 4" lift
05 F350 front axle and aluminum wheels 275/70-18 tires. 46 Gal tank - harpooned pump vent tube.
Scangauge
162 days in the shop - not counting the 4wd conversion time - Replaced front springs, 2 injectors, Trans housing, 3rd gear, Reverse planetary assy, Turbo, Alternator, Turbo hose fitting, Block Heater, Door lock - all under warranty. AC hose, not under warranty.
i've never measured the front grille area of the F vs. the E. From casually looking at them side by side the F appears slightly bigger allowing for more entry air flow. But I suspect you're talking about air flow through the grille, into the engine compartment and on out the undercarriage that might be more restrictive when compared to the F series.
If this is the consideration, does the hood scoop scenario offer more flow ?
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93 E-350 Sportsmoblie, 4x4 7.3idi, non -turbo
I'm not sure why the problem is. My guess would be the engine compartment is so tight that you can't get enough airflow through it. If air can't go out, air won't go through the radiator.
It's clear the engine compartment is tight, no room for a battery, must remove a motor mount to get the p-side valve cover off, minimal room for a hand to change the upper fuel filter, etc.
By comparison, the F-series has a ton of underhood room, yet the need vents in the fenders for the 6.4L. Another heat issue?
Mike
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04 E-350 Ext. 6.0L PSD 4.10LS 9700# w/driver
Sportsmobile camper conversion w/penthouse top
125W solar panel. Sportsmobile off-road trailer.
54,311 miles. 16.47 mpg average
From Cal to Alaska and Key West and points in between
Salem Kroger coil spring 4wd conversion - 4" lift
05 F350 front axle and aluminum wheels 275/70-18 tires. 46 Gal tank - harpooned pump vent tube.
Scangauge
162 days in the shop - not counting the 4wd conversion time - Replaced front springs, 2 injectors, Trans housing, 3rd gear, Reverse planetary assy, Turbo, Alternator, Turbo hose fitting, Block Heater, Door lock - all under warranty. AC hose, not under warranty.
The engine compartment in the van is MUCH smaller than that of a pickup. Basically the motor in the van is right up against the side of the engine compartment, so there is no external cooling available.
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1985 International rollback, 6.9L 5 speed "Li'l Big Truck"
Nah, you need to cut the sheet metal in front of the wheel well and straight up to 2 inches below the hood channel and then take the cut toward the windshield and firewall.
Then take the cut foward to the front of the truck and follow the line down along the headlights.
Tack in some 14 gauge spacer plates to push the nose out 10-12 inches, and then tack in a V shaped piece to fill in the gap between the panel and the hood.
Extend the hood and rails last, and re-inforce the joint with 3/4 sqaure thin wall tubing aand consider adding an air scoop to the hood.
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Small business fleet of identical 1998 E-450 Cutaway vans with custom 7.3L engines, Banks Kits, extended nose with Intecooler, Dual 16.5ti Warn winch, Quad PIAA lamps, 10*24" canister air filters, dual fuel tanks, 12ea frame mounted D series batetries, dual Onan Quiet-Diesel generators, and multiple MIG/TIG and Plasma welding systems. Three extra leafs in rear springs, Firestone air bags, Hadley horns, dual Oasis compressors, quad 24 gallon (96 gallons, 14 CFM), torpedo tanks # 200 PSI, with autodrains, and 6ea DEKA 8D AGM marine cells. Mitshubishi 300 Amp alternator in the upper position, and Custom Leece-Neville 200 amps alternaor in the lower slot. Partially boxed frame rails.
If you give your E-Series a nose job and add an oversized intercooler you will get drastically improved performance.
With the extra space you can add two Group 31 batteries under the hood, a Espar heater, an oil heater and bypass oil filter, complressor, etc, and all of it under your hood.
The funniest one we tried was to take tins off a F450 Series and just transplanted the hood intacts and then had to fight with the side sheet metal. After several manglings we decided to just do some plastic surgery on Econoline sheet metal.
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Small business fleet of identical 1998 E-450 Cutaway vans with custom 7.3L engines, Banks Kits, extended nose with Intecooler, Dual 16.5ti Warn winch, Quad PIAA lamps, 10*24" canister air filters, dual fuel tanks, 12ea frame mounted D series batetries, dual Onan Quiet-Diesel generators, and multiple MIG/TIG and Plasma welding systems. Three extra leafs in rear springs, Firestone air bags, Hadley horns, dual Oasis compressors, quad 24 gallon (96 gallons, 14 CFM), torpedo tanks # 200 PSI, with autodrains, and 6ea DEKA 8D AGM marine cells. Mitshubishi 300 Amp alternator in the upper position, and Custom Leece-Neville 200 amps alternaor in the lower slot. Partially boxed frame rails.
Like this? [image]http://photos.thedieselstop.com/showphoto.php?photo=25436&papass=&sort=1&a mp;thecat=500[/image] scoop
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Hypermax stage 2 injectors, 4" intake with Ram scoupe, QSSB Turbo, Snow Meth inj, BTS trans no spacer, Salem Kroger 4x4, Sway and traction bars, APX drivers seat, 4" straight exhaust & DP, 4" lift, 18" wheels with 325 nittos, custom valve Bilsteins, DP PCM and F5
...Stuff to make it almost as fast as a pickup.
You can search this forum to find much expounding regarding the power difference between Vans and PUs. I think it has more to due with end use and market needs than air flow around a watercooled motor? If you have your 6.0 out contact Wide open Performance in Utah and look into head studs and fire rings. Ask for Zane the econoline specialist. If your 6.0 isn't leaking oil from a rear plate and you get your heads clamped down you can make decent power with a 6.0.
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Hypermax stage 2 injectors, 4" intake with Ram scoupe, QSSB Turbo, Snow Meth inj, BTS trans no spacer, Salem Kroger 4x4, Sway and traction bars, APX drivers seat, 4" straight exhaust & DP, 4" lift, 18" wheels with 325 nittos, custom valve Bilsteins, DP PCM and F5
...Stuff to make it almost as fast as a pickup.
I was wandering what a wide hood scoop like blzzards (but almost full width of hood) would look like with the inter cooler on hood, in the scoop? Never mind, I just realized the plumbig will have boost pressure & thus cant open or close hood. My dumb.
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The vans run reduced power because they can't get enough air through the engine compartment to cool. More power = more heat = more problems. So Ford reduced the power to the same as IH on the same engine.
Mike
[/ QUOTE ]
Yeah, but the IH VT365 6.0L has 230HP and 620ft/lb torque @1400 rpm vs 235HP and 440 ft/lb torque @2000 rpm for the E350 6.0 PSD.
i called ATS and discussed the 6.0 troubles. Charlie who I spoke to said that all the troubles of the 6.0 point to the adjustable vane turbo applying too much boost causing the head gasket, coolant and various aliments associated .
He recommended that I look to resolve the turbo by replacing it. As you all well know there is a TSB that offers instruction and a kit to clean the turbo of deposits that can cause the vanes to get stuck.
Are there other adjustable turbos out there ?
Is Wheeze being serious with his mods ? Blizzard, can you offer any evidence (other than looking really cool) that your scoop has helped cool ? Aren't we really talking about cooling exhaust temps and reducing intake air (for more condensed air) ? Don't we want the motor itself to be warm for more efficient combustion ?
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93 E-350 Sportsmoblie, 4x4 7.3idi, non -turbo
I never claim an air intake cools the motor? I'm just pointing out air flow around the motor has a marginal effect on a water cooled system.
The intake was built to feed the turbo I installed. The intake had to be built because the stock intake was being sucked flat, like a cheap straw sucking on a milkshake, when the turbo spooled up. I saw a drop in EGts via my pyro because my entire system was choked off and wasn't getting close to enough air to burn the fuel charge being put in the cylinder. Lots of air reduces egt's but won't make any more power once the fuel is used up. I.E. Nos in a diesel.
To your last question, that is why you can purchase a 203 therm. from Bob Riley at diesel site.
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Hypermax stage 2 injectors, 4" intake with Ram scoupe, QSSB Turbo, Snow Meth inj, BTS trans no spacer, Salem Kroger 4x4, Sway and traction bars, APX drivers seat, 4" straight exhaust & DP, 4" lift, 18" wheels with 325 nittos, custom valve Bilsteins, DP PCM and F5
...Stuff to make it almost as fast as a pickup.
That system is offered and does work in a shaker style hood. That is what I had to do with my intake.
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Hypermax stage 2 injectors, 4" intake with Ram scoupe, QSSB Turbo, Snow Meth inj, BTS trans no spacer, Salem Kroger 4x4, Sway and traction bars, APX drivers seat, 4" straight exhaust & DP, 4" lift, 18" wheels with 325 nittos, custom valve Bilsteins, DP PCM and F5
...Stuff to make it almost as fast as a pickup.