injection pump removal and install for 1993 E350 7.3l

[dmancoulter]

I am installing a new injection pump in my 1993 E350 Van - problem is I cannot get to the bottom two screws on the pump to remove the old one. What kind of wrench do I need to get to it. There is just no room to turn it once the wrench is on the nut...

HEY GUYS!! I got it done!! I ground down the closed end of the wrench small enough to fit over the nut and between the pump. It worked great!! I also got the pump on and after bleeding the lines it fired up on the first try.!!

[yaric008]

I believe what you need is the special funny bent looking wrench. I've never used it.. but i've seen pictures of it, i assume you can get it at automative hardware places...

BTW... welcome to the diesel stop. Nice to see another IDI vanner, [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif[/img]

Oh yeah.. try posting this over in the 7.3 IDI forum, there are alot of guys over there that can help you.

[RayHell]

Welcome,
I had my pump out this summer, and tore off a lot of hair before I got that last nut out, the big problem was the one closest to driver. I got it out with a "normal" open wrench, but had to lurke it down below all the cables and tubes and at last I got the open end on the wrench (not the ring end) to grip. Was just enough space to loosen it and do the rest with my fingers. Tried to use a bent S-wrench, but in vain, mine was to thick to get it on the nut. Tried to cut it open, but then it got too weak and slipped...Might be a better tool for this in the stores somewhere.

The other nut is easier, remove the bracket holding the start advance solenoid and you should get to it both from the front and from incab.

Good luck [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]
Another tip: When replacing the IP, check that no return lines etc. get trapped between the IP and the valley pan, did this on mine, did not see it, and could not figure out why it did not match in the gear hole.. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif[/img] Also check the surface of the valley pan where lines contact it, mine was nearly worn through by a return line vibrating against it. (Glued on a piece of plastic on that area.)

[beaker]

I ground the excess metal off the sides of an open-end wrench; it gave me a few extra degrees of movement to work with.

[barkermd]

I used a crow's foot wrench on mine. It's just the head of an open end wrench that fits on a 3/8 in ratchet driver. Let's you turn it from about any angle. Just be sure to get the kind that is open, like a C, designed to grab the sides of the nut. At first I got a set designed to grab the edges, shaped like a star with a small opening, and couldn't get it in that tight space. Sorry I'm not sure of the names of these different types. I also was able to get at that nut with an open end wrench with the alternator or a/c compressor removed, after I busted my cheapo crow's foot wrench.
Good Luck
Mike