installing new fuel supply pump - Diesel Forum

jjpatter25 · 08-05-2005, 07:55 PM

will replacing the fuel supply pump stop my engine from dying in the first minute or so before the engine slow idles?

dansk · 08-05-2005, 11:03 PM

Don't quite understand the question. Can you be more specific?

cdnsarguy · 08-07-2005, 12:34 AM

Did you try to .........

Do pressure and flow test on the fuel pump at the Schrader valve on the filter (FSS- fuel shutoff solenoid disconnected). Remove the tire valve core and hook a hose and pressure guage on it should see 4-6 psi when cranking. Then do a fuel quantity test same place, should see 1/3 pint in 10 seconds of engine cranking, route fuel to a suitable container with a hose.

If there is a problem with the lift pump and you are changing it, ensure the new pump comes with instructions as to correct installation procedure if it is the newer model pump with the almost straight arm.

jjpatter25 · 08-07-2005, 12:36 AM

i guess my question is: could a bad fuel supply pump be the reason my van dies in the first minute or so of ignition? a few days ago, before the van died, i would turn the key, the engine would start but after a minute or so of running, the engine would sputter and die if I didn't press the gas peddle.

jjpatter25 · 08-07-2005, 01:27 PM

can't do a flow test yet since the engine won't run.

I did replace the supply pump but since the van won't run, I can't tell if I did it correctly. I removed the fuel filter, cranked the engine and fuel DID dump out so that encouraging. I installed the pump as the original pump was. Couldn't tell if the camshaft was it the right place since I don't know how to rotate the starter so that best I could do was crank the engine once in hopes of rotating the camshaft. Screwed up the starting system in the process. It's raining now and I hope it'll lighten up soon so I can work on it. 123 pm EST, 8/7. One of the batteries had to be replaced. and I replaced the regulator but can't tell if that fixed anyting. the original pump had a 1/16" worth of wear on the tip of the arm from the camshaft. I could jiggle the arm easily.

cdnsarguy · 08-07-2005, 03:27 PM

Don't need the engine to run do it with the starter....if you get no fuel or less than needed, pull the pump out and check it over. here are the instructions.

This info pertains to Carter #M60278 pump.

WARNING

This fuel pump must be installed only at the low position of actuator cam.

If the pump is installed at any other position than low cam, the pump will be ruined, the engine will stall and damage may result.

Incorrect installation will loosen the pivot pin and allows the pin and lever to come out of the pump and drop into the oil pan. This can occur immediately or after several hundred miles. This type of failure is not covered by warranty.

To ensure that the cam is at low position, it is necessary to use a mirror and a remote starter switch. Observe the cam through the mounting port and bump the engine around until a one (1) inch wide machine surface is observed. This is low position of the cam. Now complete normal fuel pump installation.

9502CA
1991

jjpatter25 · 08-12-2005, 10:09 PM

how do you remote start the engine?

cdnsarguy · 08-12-2005, 11:11 PM

Don't have to remote start unless your alone. Just remove the FSS wire on the IP, then hook up the pressure guage to filter header Schrader valve and crank the engine as required.

jjpatter25 · 08-13-2005, 12:06 PM

FSS=Fuel supply ____________?
IP=Injection pump?

jjpatter25 · 08-16-2005, 01:42 PM

when the directions say "a one (1) inch wide machine surface is observed" that's referring to the almost triangular part of the cam and that part should be pointing down?

waterdude · 08-25-2005, 12:55 AM

"a one (1) inch wide machine surface is observed" is referring to the flat surface on the cam when it is in the low position.

Picture an apple cut in half with the cut (flat) half on the table (bottom). When the flat part is on the bottom, then the arm of the fuel pump can fit in underneath. Fuel pump should come with instructions too.

--Hugh

jjpatter25 · 08-30-2005, 12:39 AM

I was looking in the Haynes diesel engine repair guide. It says you can test the fuel pump if you hook up a vacuum gauge to the pump's inlet valve when the engine is idling. It also says you can run the engine with the fuel tank hose disconnected. have you tried this? I don't see how the engine can run without the tanks hooked up.

jjpatter25 · 09-02-2005, 10:16 PM

installed pump. van starts. turns out all eight gps went bad. autolites. replaced with motorcraft gps. van still needs work. a lot louder than before. batteries still need to be charged. needs to be timed. loud clicking/knocking present now. valves may need work? just needs a tune up.
haven't done flow test yet. (no point yet. rear wheels need shoes, a cylinder, rear passenger needs springs, both drums need turned if possible.) turns out the leaking "brake fluid" in the rear driver's drum was grease, you know that essential part of ANY brake drum. When my father in law and I pulled off the passenger drum after several hours, everything came with the drum: shoes, springs, cables, all. the adjusting screw simply quit loosening. we considered a cutting torch but managed w/o. turns out the mechanic who looked at the drums didn't add any gear oil to the axle. everything smelt burnt. maybe it'll be drivable in a few weeks...