No start '91 E350, runs when started

[eshallbetter]

Hey Guys,

I just joined the forum after lurking for a long time. I finally have 2 diesels (2002 f350, 91 e350 ambulance van) and figured it was time to join!

Here's the Q.

I have the 91 E350, and it runs when it is started, but will not start. It continued to get harder and harder to start until it finally would not start at all. Cranks over strong. Towards the end it would crank and finally start, but would idle rough for a few seconds and die. It would then usually start again and would run fine once going. It would always start when the engine was warm. Now it will not start at all.

Thanks for any advice.

Erik

[rsr911]

Sounds like air is getting in the system. Do a search on the 7.3 IDI forum for the "clear line test" If you find air is getting in the system the bast place to start is replacing the o-rings, lines and caps in the return system.

[505live]

Sounds also like GPs or GPR. Had a 93 IDI, unlike the PSD if a couple GPs go bad the resistance is such that the GPR shuts down too quickly powering none of the GPs long enough to get it started. It will start like a champ though once the engine is warm.

Time the WTS light for the cold start, usually it goes out quicker than normal if the GPs are bad.

I know starting fluid is a controversial subject, but I've used it on the idi and not blown myself up. Just pop the hood, give it a short 1 sec spray, and walk leisurely around the front and start it up immediately, do not wait for the WTS light. If it is GP related it should pretty much fire right up with a cloud of smoke and a hearty "Hi-o-silver".

I used to have the procedure for the GP/GPR test, but that computer has since died and taken everything with it to the grave. You should find the procedure easy enough searching the IDI forum tho.

[eshallbetter]

Using starting fluid and skipping the glow plugs was standard procedure in the winter. I am pretty sure the glow plugs are shot on the thing. Starting fluid would still not get it started.

I searched some of the recommended areas and have alot of good knowledge to start in on.

Thanks for the help you guys!

ES

[Kaliburz]

Something funny.... open the hood and do a 'sniff' test. If you smell a strong odor of diesel (raw fuel smell), especially when warm, then you have a fuel leak. That means that the return lines are leaking and 'siphoning' fuel out of the injector lines causing a hard start/no start. Also, take a flashlight and peak around for any 'moist' looking areas (also drips under the engine of fuel is a good indication).

An old beater van I have had a difficult time to start yesterday (after a night/morning of 21F). I thought it was the GP's, but she fired to life after about a total of 1.5min of cranking (not all at once). And I plugged it in for 45 min (but usually a the block heater will not help THAT quickly if the GP's are shot).

Oh, experiment.... if your block heater works that is. Plug the engine in at least 12 HOURS if over 32F. If below 32F, wait 24 HOURS. If the engine starts with in three tries, and smokes BAD, then it is your GPs. If it doesn't start at all, then it's fuel related.

On one of my 1990's, the supply line (HOT LINE) that goes to the GP relay had an issue. GP controler and relay were fine, but the hot line had a issue. Usually in the harness. Some say it could be at the engine harness plug- which is located about/above the alternator area. I ended up bypassing the original supply hot wire (taped off the end just in case) with a 4 gauge battery cable, a mega fuse and wiring it directly to the passenger side battery. Working on the GP controller/relay is 'simple' since removing the inside engine cover exposes it right there. Granted, sometimes getting said cover out is not so easy..... But a test light is needed for sure. My supply wire would work if you wiggled it... but as soon as an electrical load (GP-ing) was put, the test light would go out...so I knew something was horribly wrong w/ the wire.

Good luck.

[moosiah]

I went through this too. I changed all the fuel return O rings and hoses on the injectors and pulled the fuel filter housing out and changed the tiny O rings in the head of the housing ; the fuel heater ,temp and water sensor...as well as the fuel return anti back wash valve . it's a little brass fitting on the filter head that keeps the filter from inhaling return fuel and air out of the return lines on the injectors when the engine cools down . when the fuel cools ,It pulls a slight vacuum and any air get sucked right into the filter so when you start it again the injection pump gets a big slug of air..... fixing this made a big diff .. Well , I also changed all the GP's for the Beru ones , that helped too.