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E-Series Vans Technical discussion of topics related to vans powered by any of the Navistar engines. This covers a broad number of years, but there isn't enough demand to split it any further.

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Old 07-31-2007, 08:37 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Rear Shock Removal?

I just spent almost 2 hours under the back of my van and got NOWHERE! The upper stud nut on the shock is hard to reach, and I can't get it spun off with a 15 mm wrench. There's not enough space to get anything other than a regular wrench in there. Anyone have a suggestion? I actually got it most of the way off by setting the wrench against the undercarriage and twisting the shock body with my hands, but that's not going to work for the last couple threads.
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'04 E350 XLT SuperDuty "Crew Van"-3 rear benches removed,
equipment shelving installed.
Specs: 5.4 V8, 3.55 open rear, K & N with modded snorkel, Black Magic Extreme 16" electric puller fan, In-Dash Auto-Meter Phantom electric coolant and ATF temp gauges, Derale Deep Transmission pan cooler, TransGo Shift Kit, Gabriel Hi-Jackers rear air shocks, polished aluminum billet grill, Euro-clear corner lenses with 18 LED amber bulbs, Euro-clear headlights with Sylvania Silverstar Ultra bulbs, Lund bugshield, 55 watt driving lights, stainless trim rings with chrome deep lug nuts, Valley Class 4 Receiver Hitch
Purchased 5/2006 w/44k, 69k as of 3/2008
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Old 07-31-2007, 09:43 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Re: Rear Shock Removal?

I cut the stud with a small hack saw first, lock a vise grip on the nut and spin the shock.

Another option is a pass-through wrench. Facom makes them (and others do too, I imagine). It's a right angle wrench that's open on top for a stud to pass through.

McMaster Carr carries them.

If you can stand to wait, PM me your address and I'll loan you mine.
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Old 07-31-2007, 09:57 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Re: Rear Shock Removal?

Hey, thanks for the offer! I think I'll try your first suggestion, I already tried to get my hack saw in there but no dice. I have a homemade rig, it's a hack saw blade taped to a stick, that may do the trick. Thanks again...
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'04 E350 XLT SuperDuty "Crew Van"-3 rear benches removed,
equipment shelving installed.
Specs: 5.4 V8, 3.55 open rear, K & N with modded snorkel, Black Magic Extreme 16" electric puller fan, In-Dash Auto-Meter Phantom electric coolant and ATF temp gauges, Derale Deep Transmission pan cooler, TransGo Shift Kit, Gabriel Hi-Jackers rear air shocks, polished aluminum billet grill, Euro-clear corner lenses with 18 LED amber bulbs, Euro-clear headlights with Sylvania Silverstar Ultra bulbs, Lund bugshield, 55 watt driving lights, stainless trim rings with chrome deep lug nuts, Valley Class 4 Receiver Hitch
Purchased 5/2006 w/44k, 69k as of 3/2008
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Old 07-31-2007, 10:31 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Re: Rear Shock Removal?

dremmel it off and get a new nut for the new shock
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Old 07-31-2007, 10:44 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Re: Rear Shock Removal?

Get a box wrench on it and slide a pipe over the wrench and do the Rambo . . . If you have a torch heat up the sucker till its red and then reef on it. Or as Six says Dremel or Cut off wheel / Sawsall or other electric / Air powered cutting tool. I have never struggled with bolts I just break them. (20 years of Powerlifting Helps}. I also have a large assortment of cheater bars / BFH's etc.
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Old 07-31-2007, 11:34 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Re: Rear Shock Removal?

Can't fit a dremel in there, or it would already be done. I may just torch and bust it off....
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'04 E350 XLT SuperDuty "Crew Van"-3 rear benches removed,
equipment shelving installed.
Specs: 5.4 V8, 3.55 open rear, K & N with modded snorkel, Black Magic Extreme 16" electric puller fan, In-Dash Auto-Meter Phantom electric coolant and ATF temp gauges, Derale Deep Transmission pan cooler, TransGo Shift Kit, Gabriel Hi-Jackers rear air shocks, polished aluminum billet grill, Euro-clear corner lenses with 18 LED amber bulbs, Euro-clear headlights with Sylvania Silverstar Ultra bulbs, Lund bugshield, 55 watt driving lights, stainless trim rings with chrome deep lug nuts, Valley Class 4 Receiver Hitch
Purchased 5/2006 w/44k, 69k as of 3/2008
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Old 08-01-2007, 01:59 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Re: Rear Shock Removal?

You can spin the shock with a 12" pair of Channellocks. The Griplock series works very good. Two of them held together 90 degrees apart will help avoid simply crushing it. Resist the urge to just crush it until you are sure the nut is off. I know there is room to get a nut splitter on the right rear. You still have to get vicegrips or something onto it afterwards. Those with diesel tanks can be less cautious about cutting torches than those with gas tanks.
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Old 08-01-2007, 11:11 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Re: Rear Shock Removal?

I believe locking onto the nut and spinning the shock body is the key to changing most of these -- I think only the right front can be done "properly." I considered doing this myself this last time, and quickly gave up on that idea. I gladly paid my 4wd shop $200 to do it for me, and it only took him 2 hours (30 mins on the passenger side, the rest on the driver's side), which he considered a long time. Mine came with nylon lock nuts, most of which he tossed due to their applying too much friction while trying to spin the shock body to tighten them up -- he used regular nuts and doubled-nutted them instead.
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