Rear Wheel Spacer Size Question - Diesel Forum

mbender · 06-27-2007, 03:36 PM

Deleted.... Did some measuring and found out that they wont fit due to me having a sliding door...

Mike

Mr_Roboto · 06-27-2007, 08:10 PM

You can adjust the sliding door so it sits further out when opened. It has been done before to clear a wider rear track.

amolaver · 06-28-2007, 11:09 AM

since the subject came up [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img] i have a 2000 e350 RB. i found an ebayer selling AL spacers, but have no idea what the lug spacing is - can someone tell me which ones are right? i know they're 8 lug [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img] the ebayer is here:

http://stores.ebay.com/ACCESSORIES-P...RS_W0QQfsubZ18

i'm thinking i'd like to add a 2" spacer on each rear wheel, although that sounds like a BIG spacer to me. we run 'em on the race cars, but 5/8" is about the biggest anyone runs. is 2" really safe to run (especially pulling a 10K trailer)?

ahm

**MikeL46** · 06-28-2007, 12:07 PM

You need the early Ford/Chevy spacers - 8 x 6.5".

The price ($79.95 + shipping) is really good. He also has some 1.5" spacers.

And he has some adapters from the old (8 x 6.5") to the new (8 x 170mm) that will let you fit new F-Series wheels on the van. And the price is a lot better than the $300 I paid for mine 3 years ago.

Mike

Mr_Roboto · 06-28-2007, 12:26 PM

I bought those - you don't want 'em.

The reason is - they countersink the holes almost all the way through. So while the aluminum spacer is thick, there is actually very little metal carrying the weight. If they would have only countersunk the holes half way through I would have found them much more structurally acceptable.

Had they been made of a stronger material, say steel or iron, the countersink depth would have been fine.

There are iron spacers that "are" safe to use for towing.

STurbo90 · 06-28-2007, 02:59 PM

I don't have an E-series,

but if you are going to use spacers,

http://www.arrowcraft.com/

this is where you want to get them.

All Steel AND Hub Centric.

All the aluminum ones I have seen are lug centric.

Mr_Roboto · 06-28-2007, 04:23 PM

The aluminum ones COULD be hub centric, but they machine a big chamfer in them to open up the inside hole at the ends. Probably to keep them from sticking on from galvanic corrosion.

Good idea, poorly executed design.

**MikeL46** · 06-28-2007, 05:02 PM

[ QUOTE ]
All the aluminum ones I have seen are lug centric.

[/ QUOTE ]

The adapters I got were aluminum and lug centric on one side and hubcentric on the other. Custom made to order by:

http://www.wheeladapter.com/home.asp

He will make them anyway you want/need. Good work, fast, not cheap. But, you call him up and tell him what you need, he knows all the specs and can turn them out in short order.

Mike

toalpi · 06-28-2007, 05:55 PM

[ QUOTE ]
I bought those - you don't want 'em.

The reason is - they countersink the holes almost all the way through. So while the aluminum spacer is thick, there is actually very little metal carrying the weight. If they would have only countersunk the holes half way through I would have found them much more structurally acceptable.

[/ QUOTE ] How is this different from a factory wheel as far as the thickness? You would want the first set of lug nuts to land about where the original lug nuts landed on the factory studs. If I were to get some, I would go for the 1-1/2" ones. They have to make the holes deep enough so that the lug nuts do not protrude beyond the new wheel mounting surface. The 1-1/2" ones will/would require more of the factory studs to be trimed off. I trimed mine many years ago so that I could use some "McGard" brand 'duplex' lug nuts.

bork · 06-29-2007, 12:25 AM

I bought the 2" cheap ebay ones & they run out fine , but I do wonder about the strenghth. I could find no one that could tell me if they were really T-6 alum. alloy. Someone told me that many wheels are cast & you dont see problems with them. I just hope there is a warning if they decide to go. I dont want to see a wheel by itself, passing me!

mbender · 07-02-2007, 05:21 AM

[ QUOTE ]
You can adjust the sliding door so it sits further out when opened. It has been done before to clear a wider rear track.

[/ QUOTE ]

I went out and looked at it and couldnt figure out how it adjusted. I also did a search and came up with nothing. Any help would be great since I would like to add the spacers.

Thanks

Mike

STurbo90 · 07-25-2007, 03:36 AM

[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
All the aluminum ones I have seen are lug centric.

[/ QUOTE ]

The adapters I got were aluminum and lug centric on one side and hubcentric on the other. Custom made to order by:

http://www.wheeladapter.com/home.asp

He will make them anyway you want/need. Good work, fast, not cheap. But, you call him up and tell him what you need, he knows all the specs and can turn them out in short order.

Mike

[/ QUOTE ]

All I meant was when I was looking for mine, all the ones on the shelf were not hub-centric.

Anything can be done if it is going to be custom.

I actually almost had some aluminum ones custom made, but I ended up getting the Arrowcraft's cause I found out they were hub-centric and on the shelf ready to be shipped.

Even after shipping the Arrowcrafts were $20.00 cheaper then getting custom aluminum ones, and that was local, no shipping.