E-Series VansTechnical discussion of topics related to vans powered by any of the Navistar engines. This covers a broad number of years, but there isn't enough demand to split it any further.
I've been experiencing what I thought was freezing moisture/wax build-up in my pickup filter screens. I live on Long Island and it's been cold enough to cause what most people would think is gelling or waxing. After a trip to the dealer-whereby they dumped in anti-gell, changed the filter in the separator and warmed the truck overnight- and several misserably long trips home from work put-putting on the shoulder while other PSD's whiz on by [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif[/img], I finally dropped the tank. Lo and behold, the sump was all aglitter with what looked like small flakes of silver paint [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif[/img]. The two strainers inside the mixing chamber were all crapped-up with the same. As I peered inside, I could see what amounts to total failure of the internal coating. I could also see a rust "bath tub ring" corresponding to aproximately 3/4 tank fill. Since my Van is an 02, and I drive it 100 mi plus per day, I surmized that this truck must've sat in the dealer lot for a long time with a bad load of fuel. The bottom line is that I've had to order a new tank and sending unit (the fuel sending part of it is all rusted and will fail soon) to the tune of $450 & $375, respectively [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/sick.gif[/img]. I'm very interested in hearing if any other Vannes have had this tank problem.
I plan to also install a pre-pump filter while still using the the stock pickup assembly - sans the two screens inside the chamber and in the p/u foot. I've read all about the tank mods and this will be my twist on it. I think it's important that the p/u assy. rests on the bottom of the tank as it is the only way water can be removed. I would do the full tank mod if our tanks had a bottom drain to get the water out. I'm also toying with the idea of having a drain installed on the new tank before I install it. If I can figure out how to do that I will do the full tank mod. Anyone have any thoughts on-or experience with-installing a tank drain? Thanks!
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2002 E-350 7.3 PSD; Triculator Springs/Sonax Valve/Transcommand/AutoLoc Coverter Control
Hm, i don't recall any others having troubles like that, i have heard though, if you have a tank that's made for gasoline it sometimes will do that when you put diesel in it. But if it's a factory tank, i dunno...
First off WELCOME to TDS [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif[/img]
As mentioned I haven't heard of any problems like this. Also, look real careful at what is covered in the 5/100 since parts of the fuel system are included in either that or the emissions warranty. There are a couple of screwy things covered in those that one normally wouldn't think should be covered.
Check your PMs [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]
Good luck,
Larry, keeper of the <font color="blue">"little secrets" </font> CLICK HERE [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]
__________________ <font color="green">MY PICTURES - Look around ... lots of good stuff </font>
2001PSD(PCM:HPI2)SD E-350,Dk Emerald Grn,4.10LS, <font color="blue">Mustang dyno - 183.9/400.4 stock</font> [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img], BTS w/Schaeffer's ATF[img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif[/img] , ITP 3.5"/4" exhaust w/Magnaflow & Aeroturbine,Dieselsite 203* T-stat/Zerex G-05,F.Pwr, Ext/Int. Upgd. pkg,R. Bds,AIC,Tow Pkg, Rear & Slider windows,<font color="red">AMSOIL air, oil-bypass & rear end 75w-140 fluid ,<font color="blue">3/8" fuel sys w/10µ Dieselsite DAHL100 & fuel manifold/sight glass</font>,6 way dr. pwr. seat, Magnefine trans/P.S. filters</font>, husky mats,<font color="red">5 gauge A-pillar ISSPRO EVs w/Grn mkr illum. + air & fuel restriction gauges</font>,Dieselsite coolant filter and zinc electrode, manual GPR switch & GP LED, blinking security LED, weathertechs, a few other "Gadgets" [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img], & a 1981 26' Prowler TT(26Y)
The lining in my tank had deteriorated also. I had the "roll-over valve" get stuck in the closed position, couldn't fill the tank. Not sure if the flakes of lining jammed it or not. I didn't see ant rust in the tank, so I just cleaned it out and reinstalled after cutting out the valve.
Don't know what causes this, but I shouldn't happen on a '02, a '94 like mine maybe.
Yeah, I bought my Van as a year old leftover. I think it must've sat on the lot with excess condensation inside, hence the rusty "bath tub ring" inside [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif[/img]. BTW, how did you clean your tank well enough so as not to have further flaking? Did you remove the intact coating too? If it weren't for the rust I might've attempted the same.
Also, I was wondering what the deal is with the hole in the bottom w/the small plate sealed over it - any ideas?
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2002 E-350 7.3 PSD; Triculator Springs/Sonax Valve/Transcommand/AutoLoc Coverter Control
I have a sending unit with a few thousand miles on it out of my '03 if you want to save some cash.
p.m.me
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'96 F-250 XLT 4x4 reg,cab 8' bed E4OD All synthetic's 4:10 Rancho 9000's, Michelin LTX MS , New injectors, high pressure oil pump, glow plugs and harness, turbo pedestal, Hayden cooler,idle controller, California regulator kit, CPS at 105K, Banks down pipe, Now 144,000 10K mod, Joe Servo Mod
2003 E-350 Super Cargo 7.3 3:55 L.S. Premium van group,Power group "Bone stock" for now!
I just used a hammer and worked my way around the inside of the tank. If it didn't come off, it stayed in. Pretty sure the rest will flake off sooner or later. My main concern was just getting the van back on the road. The lining in my tank was pretty thick and white, not sure if it was paint or some kind of "plastic".
Do a search for posts by user name- Kleen. Randy aka kleen has a thread here detailing some of the performance problems he was experiencing with his van that included numerous trips to the dealership and lots of parts replacement. His tank was found to be deteriorating internally. I think his van is a 2000 or a 2001 but the tank got replaced under warranty, he was under the 100k at the time.Like Larry M said,check into it. The 5 year 100k warranty uses language like related components. If you have injector, pump or fuel system issues(items covered in the warranty) due to the tank lining deteriorating, this is a "related component." Don't modify or repair anything till you have looked into it. Could save you some money.
ddog
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While I love diesels, I don't need one, and unfortunately, after much deliberation its a hobby I currently cannot afford.......... Gone but not forgotten:
1999.5 F250 CC SB XLT 4WD, 7.3 PSD, First F,2nd Diesel, nice but still liked the van better.
2003 E-350 Super Duty Chateau (Club Wagon)7.3PSD, 3rd Clubwagon,First diesel, Never should have sold it....
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Also, I was wondering what the deal is with the hole in the bottom w/the small plate sealed over it - any ideas?
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Last time I looked at my fuel tank there were no holes of any kind on the bottom. Does it look Factory? Sealant or gasket? Machine screws or self tapping screws? Sounds like someone did not want to pull the tank to clean it out at some point. I'd investigate the warranty/repair history of your van a little closer. Even if it was a new leftover, dealer may have filed a warranty repair for the unit as an inventory/prep problem.Hole in the bottom definitely doesn't sound right though. In case you skipped down to here see my post above.
ddog
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While I love diesels, I don't need one, and unfortunately, after much deliberation its a hobby I currently cannot afford.......... Gone but not forgotten:
1999.5 F250 CC SB XLT 4WD, 7.3 PSD, First F,2nd Diesel, nice but still liked the van better.
2003 E-350 Super Duty Chateau (Club Wagon)7.3PSD, 3rd Clubwagon,First diesel, Never should have sold it....
Thanks for the info, ddog.
As for the "hole" in the bottom: it looks like it's factory. The hole is sort of tear-drop shaped and has a small plate - of the same shape but larger - seam-welded over it. At first I thought it might be a magnet or something; it is not in fact magnetic. The hole is located just off center of the plastic sump/labrynth assembly. It looks like a "you-didn't-get-me" type thing [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img]- like a knock-out in your dashboard for an option you didn't get.
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2002 E-350 7.3 PSD; Triculator Springs/Sonax Valve/Transcommand/AutoLoc Coverter Control
I'll look at mine again a little closer when I get a chance, see if it looks the same. Thinking about doing tank mods and wonder what my tank looks like inside. I wonder if the gas and diesel vans are using the same tank. They really shouldn't be.
ddog
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While I love diesels, I don't need one, and unfortunately, after much deliberation its a hobby I currently cannot afford.......... Gone but not forgotten:
1999.5 F250 CC SB XLT 4WD, 7.3 PSD, First F,2nd Diesel, nice but still liked the van better.
2003 E-350 Super Duty Chateau (Club Wagon)7.3PSD, 3rd Clubwagon,First diesel, Never should have sold it....
Yeah, I've been wondering that myself. The gas tank would not have those vents on top since a vapor recovery system would be present. But, Ford might just cork those up. I'm curious to see if my replacement tank turns out to be plastic. I heard somewhere that metal tanks are going to be outlawed for one reason or another. Also, I wonder what any dieseler would find lurking in his/her tank.
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2002 E-350 7.3 PSD; Triculator Springs/Sonax Valve/Transcommand/AutoLoc Coverter Control
You should be able to put in a drain by using an aftermarket trans pan drain. You drill a hole, put in the "holed" bolt with a nut on the inside, then have the drain bolt that goes in the hole. I would think the rubber in it would hold up fine, since it is designed to resist boiling hot trans fluid.
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1985 International rollback, 6.9L 5 speed "Li'l Big Truck"
you might consider the regulated return mod prior to the tank mod. Give Dennis a call at ITP Diesel and he can shed some light on the subject for you.
youngster