Time For Brakes- Any Suggestions

[ddog]

Well time for at least front brakes and possibly rears. Close to 40 k on the brakes the dealer did just before I purchased it. Been experiencing DTV (Disc Thickness Variation) for a while, don't want to be chastised for saying my rotors are warped. Also starting to hear rthe chirpers.

Read through some of the Brake threads in F forums, Frozen Rotors, Performance Friction, Etc. So what seems to work well on the vans?

How about the service manual recommendation for turning the rotors on the vehicle, is this absolutely necessary? They were turned at 29k, so not sure if they are still servicable any way.

Thanks in advance for any advice!

ddog

[XRACER]

I've only been driving for 33 years, but in that time I've never had a set of rotors turned that came out perfect. Those lathes must be calibrated with a sledge hammer. I wouldn't be surprised if your DTV issue is dealer related.

In all my years of racing (bikes....mind you.....) I always just changed the pads when they turned into potato chips, and replaced the rotors when they got too thin. Of course, they were full floating rotors, but floating or not, you know when they're warped.

Buy new rotors, and change the pads more often.

Just my 2 cents.

[oystein]

Someone here (Aceman? iirc) have had good experience with ART brakes.
http://www.appliedrotortechnology.com/

[MADVAN]

I have slotted type (gas relief) on my van. Work well and fair priced.
Most of the rotors are machined from oem rotors.
http://www.sp-performance.com/SPhome.htm

Last post from Ace was back in 9-7-05

Bill

[youngster]

I am still running my stock, unturned rotors after three pad changes on the fronts. The rears just got done last month.
Recomendations:
Both front and rear: Get a good impact gun to remove the bolts holding the caliper brackets on and don't forget to loosen the caliper to caliper bracket torx bolts first.
Rears: if you have a full float rear axle ( with disc brakes), get some new axle gaskets and make sure to check the drum-in-hat parking brake assembly...much easier to do when everything is already up and 75% disassembled already.
youngster

[Mr_Roboto]

I've done well with Hawk brand "Super Duty" brake pads. They have an aggressive compound that improves braking. The only drawback is every few weeks they will squeal for a few stops.

For my rear drums I use "heavy duty" semi metallic linings, many of the brake manufacturers make them although the parts stores don't carry them.

As far as I'm concerned you shouldn't turn rotors unless they are warped or heavily glazed. The reason the shops push turning is that it gives you a "factory fresh" braking. Basically they don't want customers complaining that there's a little squeal etc.

I haven't turned any of my personal rotors since the mid 90's.

[bork]

I was under the impression factory pads were best. After reading many post (& in F forums), it seems many are getting 100k miles outta factory pads. I know my E350 15 passenger extended gasser has 100k miles on them & still look like they could go another 25,000 easy. I always thought the factory repackages them & doubles the price.(from Bendix or whoever). Could they have exclusive rights on pad formulation? I may have to do my psd soon cause I hear a noise.(I hope it is the wear indicators)

[blageurt]

Brembo are expensive but they are quality rotors and calipers. Some say they are the best. If you can afford it go wild. If not I've heard Ceramix brand pads from Napa stop the beast quite well. As far as rotors go I've always used Napa in the past.
I only put Brembos on my dump Dually because I overload it regularly and the stock system could not handle the stress and heat due to the extreme weight.

[ddog]

Thanks for all the responses [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img] I'll need to take the wheels off and see just what's going on and how bad things are.

The dealer brake job ( I didn't pay for it, they did the front brakes before putting out on the lot for sale) was pretty good I guess, It was braking straight with no wobble for at least the first 20k miles or so, gradually started getting DTV (warping).

Rear is disc brake semi floater, anything special about that?

Bill, did you get your SP Performance stuff locally or from a sponsor? no pricing on the link.

Colin, How many miles on your OEM Front Rotors, How many miles between pad changes?

If I can find a quality shop (machine shop, not Advance Auto, etc)to turn the rotors, anyone think that's an option or just replace them at this point?

Thanks,
Derrek

[MADVAN]

Local
Paid 150.00 for both. I used the oem pads.
If you cannot find locally, I think they are available thru Jeggs/summit.

Bill

[bork]

Well I got the front & rear pads from dealer for around $156.00. My front is making a noise. Started around 4:00 on driver front(noise maker) found inside wearing thru pad at rear of pad cause caliper piston is pushing out crooked.(boots ripped & piston caps bent) Of course too late for dealer so I got Advance Auto parts store(Cardo brand rebuilt)Really dont care for their stuff, but I 'm in a jam. also decided to repack wheel bearings. & glad I did. past due. Needless to say, about 10:00 pm, one side done.(did I mention I had to drive another 9 miles south to another parts store to get another caliper?) the 2 at original store was really only one cause when I opened 2nd box to inspect, it had an old core in it. & as luck would have it, that was the driver side I needed.

[ddog]

Bruce-Lube the slide pins well and change your brake fluid (all of it)Stuck/sticking hardware is what gives you uneven wear. Its hard to get the fluid out of the van master cylinder, but suck out as much as you can, fill with fresh fluid, start at RR(furthest from MC) bleed till clean, refil M/C, got to left rear,bleed till clean, go to right front, etc, go to left front.

With the Florida humidity, should be changing brake fluid at least every two years. Put 2x4 or something similar on the floor under the pedal so you don't overstroke the master cylinder piston when pumping brakes.

Haven't taken a look at mine yet. Pricewise it looks like I might try rotorpros- 4 slotted and plated rotors and low dust pads for $350 shipped (rotors $270,pads $80) tough to beat, haven't seen any problems reported here yet from people that have them.

Bill- Tried SP-Performance, using their dealer locator, they sent me a dead link first, then sent me a second link and said to do a search on SP-Performance....... apparently no local dealer for me... Online pricing is no where near what you paid, almost double like 130.00 each.

I'm sure the rotorpros are import sourced, almost have to be for the price. Not keen on buying imported if I an help it, but the much talked about (for quality, by FMVRT) domestic Wagner Rotors (in F-Forums) are pretty pricy in my neck of the woods, couldn't seem to get anyone to give jobber on them and the counter price for just the fronts was around 180.00 each.

Won't get a look at them this weekend(side job) or next, going camping/ATVing next weekend at Croom. Will keep you posted...

Derrek

[yaric008]

Well dang. I tried for a while to find slotted rotors for my van but i could never find any. All i would find is slotted and drilled for dually E-series. I ended up getting the brembo rotors because mine were warpped. Got part numbers or something on those slotted ones you are going to order?

[ddog]

www.rotorpros.com I had to e-mail them for a price, they emailed me back with price above, no part numbers. The Sp-performance rotors that Madvan linked above, there's no local dealer for me, but there are part numbers on their website. They have a variety of internet distributors but so far are more money than the rotorpros.

Tough thing about buying brakes over the internet is you can't stand in the store and compare/inspect brands in your hands for quality, etc.

The "better brakes" thread has some good information, I think its in U&A general.

[MADVAN]

dog
My rotors are less expensive due to i only have rear wheel ABS. Also not the same part# due to 4X4. I have f-series rotors.
Will PM you on info when i get it. T54-031/MD-655

Bill