E-Series VansTechnical discussion of topics related to vans powered by any of the Navistar engines. This covers a broad number of years, but there isn't enough demand to split it any further.
I have the Boost, Pyro, trans, and I have room for one more.
DP-Tuner offers a very sturdy and visually appealing tune selector with their chips that'll do absolute wonders to your van. You ever considered one?
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2001 E-350 ext 15 passenger. 7.3L psd, DP-Tuner 20, 60, 80, 80E, 120race, Overboost Annihilator, Turbonetics BB, 4" DiamondEye turbo-back exhaust, custom fabricated 4" intake, Gold Line rebuilt powder coated calipers, braided stainless soft lines, Precision torque converter, TransGo shift kit, ATS Deep Sump trans pan, AutoMeter Ultralite Boost, Trans temp, EGT and in a three pod pillar and fuel pressure, DP-selector and oil temp in an over head console.
I been thinking about the DP unit, I have the 1705 SC Tuner now, it's OK, but not as good as jody's everyone says.
I have the Magnaflow SS 4" exhaust, Mag-Hytec tranny & rear end covers, Sonnax Valve, Bilsteins, centermatics, and the dual battery dual alt system.
the 4" exhaust is also wrapped with the Thermo-Tec header Wrap 2" Tape, it helps cut down on the interior noise/drone. This was a major improvement, I could not believe how quiet the exhaust sound is now.
When it rains the wrap hardly gets wet and if it does get wet it dries almost right away. The pipes are stainless and I'M not worried about corrosion. Even if I had a galvanized exhaust pipe I would still wrap it with the tape, it would be worth replacing the exhaust in 5-10 years if need be. I think it would actually help the pipes from rotting as no salts and or water would get to it. The wrap actually repels the water.
I did what a few others have done, I even wrapped the round magnaflow muffler, and that cut more noise out.
I recently had my brake fluid vacuumed pumped out and flush, then new fluid installed. My brakes work so much better now.
I'M writing a paper with all the maintenance requirements to keep inside the van in case it ever needs service.
Like the mag-Hytec tranny cover and rear end covers use so much more fluid than stock, etc.
One rookie at an oil changing place thought the engine took 5 quarts of oil. I told him it was about 15 quarts. I have one of the "FilterMag" high quality oil filter magnets on my oil filter, FilterMAG: Magnetic Oil Filters finish the Job Your Filter Started. , and it needs a special screw to remove the magnet when it's time to change it. You cannot pull it off by using your hands, it's too strong. When we cut one of the filters open to see if there was any metal on the inside, it was full and packed with sludge and you could see all the metal content. They really work great.
I want to install a new water cooling in-line spin-on filter system, I just want to know what is the best one to use.
Anyone know of any website photo sites with van 7.3L engine and performance mods?
Any help would be kind.
Thanks,
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2000, E-350, SuperDuty, Explorer Extended LivingRoom, 7.3L PSD. 3:55 LS Rear, SuperChips 1705, Dual K&N's, FleetGuard WF-2077 Coolant Filter, AutoMeter Phantom Guages - Pyro, Boost, Tranny & Hobbs Hour Meter, 4" SS MagnaFlow Turbo Back Completely Wrapped with Thermo-Tec 2" Header Tape, Sonnax Valve & Tricumulator Shift Springs, Mag-Hytec Tranny & Dana 60 Cover, One-Up Front Spring Option, Bilstein's, Centramatic's, 35 Gallon Main Fuel Tank & Trax II TransferFlow 27 Gallon Aft. Aux. Fuel Tank = 62 Gallon Range, ACPM/AIC, Dual Battery & Dual Alt, FilterMAG, Fumoto, Amsoil Tranny & Rear End, Alcoa's, 4 Leather Captain Chairs w/ Back Bench Seat/Bed, Inflatable Aerobed, 20" LCD TV Overhead, DVD, VCR, KVH TrackVision, SAT/NAV, Walnut Cabinets & Trim, 3000 Watt Sine Wave Power Inverter, BioVault 2.0 Gun Safe, 2xDIN Pioneer DVD Head w/Backup & Side Cameras, 5 Channel Surround Sound System, PowerTank, 12 Volt Refrigerator, RainX Wiper Blades, 3M Rubberized Undercoating, Bob's AC Valve, H3R
Real oil pressure is what I am considering along with the triple pillar. I will probably mount it on the left lower panel or in the dash . I'm not sure yet .
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95 E350 PSD HD Cargo , BB shim , E4OD , B&M aluminium Trans pan , HD cooler , Cat sleeps with the fishes , 3:55 D70FF, Michelin LTX " E " ,Not installed yet DP flashed PCM (60 Tow )Autometer Triple Pillar Guage pod , New Injector O-rings /IPR /lift pump / filterbowl @ 235K
1977 F350 Dually Dump , 460 , 429 POLICE heads , 4:56 D70FF, Edelbrock Intake , Holley 850 dbl pmper ,MSD IGN , Custom HiPo C-6 Trans , Dual Exhausts , Bridgestone "E" Tires
1983 KZ1000R , Yoshimura Stage I
1982 KZ1000 , 1045 Wiseco , Turbo ready
1990 KX500
I have the Boost, Pyro, trans, and I have room for one more.
What is the most important to install?
I was thinking about the water temp?
Any help would be kind,
Thanks,
Back in 2001 when I got my two "two gauge" pods and installed them I originally had the Boost, Pre and Post Turbo and Tranny temp. When I was considering the 203 T-stat I wanted to base line my water temp so I got a water temp sensor and moved the Post Turbo up to the area of my "shelf it" so I now have a custom "5" gauge A-pillar gauge install. That top gauge is not really usable driving because of the angle, but since it's for shut down I'm stopped when looking at it.
I've found between the water temp and the post turbo, the post turbo the most useful since with a 4" wrapped DP it takes longer than usual to cool of the turbo so I use the post turbo to determine shutdown. I'm not sure there is a good answer for that 4th gauge since it all depends.
Larry
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2001 PSD with lots of gauges and a few other mods. If interested look HERE
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