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E-Series Vans Technical discussion of topics related to vans powered by any of the Navistar engines. This covers a broad number of years, but there isn't enough demand to split it any further.

       
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Old 06-25-2002, 06:47 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Van Regulator Mods

Pictures here: http://photos.ford-diesel.com/index....00&thumb=1

I've done the regulator mods on my van. I ordered the parts from Jeg's. Since there is limited room on the engine to mount the regulator, I originally decided to mount the regulator off engine on the lip just under the hood. I moved the vacuum manifold toward the driver's fender and mounted the regulator on an aluminum bracket between the vacuum manifold and the oil filler mount. I changed from this location because I thought that noises from split-shot pulses in the lines were entering the interior of the van. So I made a new bracket and mounted the regulator outside the air conditioner compressor.
On the new mount, I put the regulator "upside down" to help insure that air would purge out the regulator and not get trapped in the upper part of the regulator. On re-routing the hoses to the new location, I realized that I had strapped the driver's side hose to the rear A/C lines, which are mounted to the body just behind the regulator. The noise may have been coming from this line and not where the regulator was mounted.
The factory regulator was shimmed with a 4-40 allen head screw as others have suggested. I couldn't find an allen head at first so I tried a regular screw - but the pressure maxed out at 65 psi. So I had to take it apart again and put the "right" screw in. The pressure will now run up to 80 psi.
So far, I've put over 500 miles with the mod and have not noticed any difference. Milage on first 1/2 tank was 17.4 mpg, about the same as before with mixed highway/city driving. The idle knock is very consistent now, before it would come and go. The hammering at mid range is still present.
To purge air from the system, I disconnected one side and capped the regulator and plugged the line, then ran the key-on, engine-off routine several times. Then I switched cap/plug to the other side and purged it. This was done with the regulator set at minimum (about 20 psi) to help with purging. I did the final houkup and purged the system some more before starting. I'm concerned that there may STILL be air in the system because the driver's side hose runs up to a mount along the air inlet hose then down to the regulator. But I seem to have flow in both hoses as both hoses get very warm after the van has been driven for a while. I left the regulator set at 70psi cold, it drops to 65psi when warmed up.
Some tips:
Pull the square head plugs from the heads first, one at a time. If your lucky, the system is full of fuel and it will siphon down the return line to the tank, emptying the heads out and saving you from spilling fuel.
To tap in the return line, remove the line at the fuel filter, remove the tank cap, and blow air in the line to force the fuel into the tank. By doing this, I was able to cut the line and not spill any fuel on myself.
When you remove the return cap from the housing to shim the regulator, it takes a lot of dexterity and the right tools. I used a torx drive from a handle set in a 1/4" hex socket with a short 1/4" extension and 1/4" ratchet. The 3/8" drive setup would not fit in the space.
A rag under the return next to the fuel line will catch small parts that try to fall in the valley.
A magnet on a stick can be used from the rear to retreive small parts and wrenches which bounce off the rag into the valley. Because the valley is full of recesses, you may need to do some "fishing" for parts you can't see. Look under the turbo with a flashlight.
I have no idea how to retrieve magnets that fall off the stick into the valley...
Put a 5/16" hose on the filter drain line to extend it away from the frame. Some fuel drained from the filter can be used to rinse out your hose assemblies. You'll need this next time you change the fuel filter anyway. I left my hose in place and plugged the end with a 5/16" bolt, and cable-tied it loosely to the lower frame. The bolt keeps critters from building nests in there. The filter drain line is on the passenger side, near the front of the engine. You can see it from underneath, it angles to the rear a little.
Any suggestions anybody has on what I might have missed will be appreciated. I intend to replace the long-lead injector, and then I may switch to the single-feed setup. That will have to wait until after vacation next couple of weeks.
Thomas
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2002 E-350 Chateau 7.3L PSD AIC 3.55 LS YZ/BQ
TTP BRB CSB DNS DHCP EAA ARRL - At least that's what the salesman said!
Tank Mod Done (Pics)
1992 Holiday Rambler 32 FT Alumalite Travel Trailer
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Old 06-25-2002, 07:28 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Re: Van Regulator Mods

ThomasL,

Great pics and a sharp installation from "the pioneer" for the fuel regulator mod in Vans [img]/ubbthreads/images/icons/wink.gif[/img] . Two questions: 1) How hard was the passenger side return port to get to and; 2) same for shimming the stock fuel regualtor, especially what you had to remove to get to it (i.e. air intake all the way back to the turbo,etc.). When and if I do this, I sure only want to do it one time. [img]/ubbthreads/images/icons/crazy.gif[/img]

Finally, I probably forgot but have you done both the pre pump and in tank mods and did you leave your CV's in. Getting all this info in one place will provide a good future reference. [img]/ubbthreads/images/icons/grin.gif[/img]

ON EDIT: Found my answer about your pre pump and tank mods <font color="red"> HERE</font color> [img]/ubbthreads/images/icons/crazy.gif[/img] - SORRY for forgetting - keeping all this straight sometimes gets a little more than difficult [img]/ubbthreads/images/icons/tongue.gif[/img] At least now we have most of the important info in one thread [img]/ubbthreads/images/icons/smile.gif[/img]

Larry
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<font color="green">MY PICTURES - Look around ... lots of good stuff </font>
2001PSD(PCM:HPI2)SD E-350,Dk Emerald Grn,4.10LS, <font color="blue">Mustang dyno - 183.9/400.4 stock</font> [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img], BTS w/Schaeffer's ATF[img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif[/img] , ITP 3.5"/4" exhaust w/Magnaflow & Aeroturbine,Dieselsite 203* T-stat/Zerex G-05,F.Pwr, Ext/Int. Upgd. pkg,R. Bds,AIC,Tow Pkg, Rear & Slider windows,<font color="red">AMSOIL air, oil-bypass & rear end 75w-140 fluid ,<font color="blue">3/8" fuel sys w/10µ Dieselsite DAHL100 & fuel manifold/sight glass</font>,6 way dr. pwr. seat, Magnefine trans/P.S. filters</font>, husky mats,<font color="red">5 gauge A-pillar ISSPRO EVs w/Grn mkr illum. + air & fuel restriction gauges</font>,Dieselsite coolant filter and zinc electrode, manual GPR switch & GP LED, blinking security LED, weathertechs, a few other "Gadgets" [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img], & a 1981 26' Prowler TT(26Y)
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Old 06-26-2002, 10:21 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Re: Van Regulator Mods

Larry,

To get to the passenger side fitting, I had to remove the alternator. First remove the air filter, box and all by removing the 4 screws and loosening the clamp on the air tube. You can slide the box forward, into the front plastic piece to remove the air tube on the rear side, then slide it up and rearward to get it out of the front plastic piece and off the vehicle. Use a 1/2" drive breakover handle to loosen the drive belt tensioner and slip the drive belt off the idler then off the alternator. Watch your fingers! Disconnect the positive cable from the rear battery where it connects to the front battery and tape it so it doesn't accidently short, then remove the ground from the front battery. Three bolts hold the alternator in place. Remove them then turn the alternator "on it's nose" to remove the nut holding the main wire and disconnect the smaller wires. Then wrestle the alternator out. The plug is fairly easy to get to after that - but installing a right angle adapter required almost every tool I own. I used an open end, a crows foot, a large wrench stuck thru a crows foot, etc. Each wrench got me about a 1/16 of a turn tighter, but I eventually got it in there. After I had all the plumbing done, I put cushioned clamp under the inside bolt on the alternator to hold the hose in place and prevent chafing.
To access the regulator, I removed the rubber air tube back to the fitting where the crankcase vent is. First remove the resonator box from the rear - loosen it's clamp from the front side then remove the one bolt from the rear. The box will slide right out. I actually removed the tube without removing this box but realized it's a lot easier to remove the box first. When you change the fuel filter, you'll have to remove the box because it hangs out over the edge of the filter. Once the box is out, then remove the clamp that holds the air tube to the crankase vent tube and remove the air tube. Both clamps are fastened to the air tube so they won't fall off when loosened. I then used the torx setup described above to get into the regulator. Note - the crankcase vent tube is bolted to a mount so you can't just remove the clamp at the turbo and pull the whole thing out - perhaps you could remove the bolts at the crankcase vent and its hose, but that seemed like more trouble.
Both the tank and prepump mods are done as you have linked. I left the check valves (CVs) in place. I didn't open the fuel filter bowl - just the regulator part. I didn't replace the lines from the filter to the heads - that's still stock including the CVs. I'm seriously thinking about going to the single feed setup and removing the CVs.
This was my first AN/JIC fitting project, so it was all new to me. I'm still learning ways to couple this plumbing together. One tip I did discover on this: Aeroquip says to insert the hose into the fitting by twisting and pushing - yeah right! I twisted and pushed on my first hose for two days and all I managed to do was fray out the braid and build frustration. I finally realized that a small screwdriver is a great help in getting the hose started into the fitting, then it's fairly easy to twist and push the hose in place,
especially if your wearing gloves. Having the strength of king kong would help too.
One more tip: the o-ring fittings on the regulator will accept a AN union without any modification. You don't have to buy the expensive "regulator" fittings. This may mean that you could use a -06 to -04 reducing union and use -04 hoses and adapters. I didn't realize this might work and used -06 hoses to match the regulator size. -04 hoses might be easier to work with and fit into the tight spaces.
I've also thought that it would be neat to have a valve on each line from the head to the regulator. You could shut off one side at a time to purge air from the other side. Anybody have any ideas on valves that would be suitable - without having 16 million adapters and a regulator that's 2 feet wide?
Thomas
__________________
2002 E-350 Chateau 7.3L PSD AIC 3.55 LS YZ/BQ
TTP BRB CSB DNS DHCP EAA ARRL - At least that's what the salesman said!
Tank Mod Done (Pics)
1992 Holiday Rambler 32 FT Alumalite Travel Trailer
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Old 03-21-2003, 05:12 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Re: Van Regulator Mods

While this is old news, BTT and pics can be seen <font color="red"> HERE</font>.

Larry
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<font color="green">MY PICTURES - Look around ... lots of good stuff </font>
2001PSD(PCM:HPI2)SD E-350,Dk Emerald Grn,4.10LS, <font color="blue">Mustang dyno - 183.9/400.4 stock</font> [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img], BTS w/Schaeffer's ATF[img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif[/img] , ITP 3.5"/4" exhaust w/Magnaflow & Aeroturbine,Dieselsite 203* T-stat/Zerex G-05,F.Pwr, Ext/Int. Upgd. pkg,R. Bds,AIC,Tow Pkg, Rear & Slider windows,<font color="red">AMSOIL air, oil-bypass & rear end 75w-140 fluid ,<font color="blue">3/8" fuel sys w/10µ Dieselsite DAHL100 & fuel manifold/sight glass</font>,6 way dr. pwr. seat, Magnefine trans/P.S. filters</font>, husky mats,<font color="red">5 gauge A-pillar ISSPRO EVs w/Grn mkr illum. + air & fuel restriction gauges</font>,Dieselsite coolant filter and zinc electrode, manual GPR switch & GP LED, blinking security LED, weathertechs, a few other "Gadgets" [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img], & a 1981 26' Prowler TT(26Y)
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