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Where to buy rear AC blend door?

5K views 17 replies 8 participants last post by  bork 
#1 ·
All right you google geniuses, where do I get a rear AC blend door? Or does anybody have a P/N or what Ford calls it?
 
#2 ·
Installation of a new blend door (go search the archives) requires removing the rear unit and all of the problems that go with the procedure.

As you have discovered by now, the default is "heat". My solution was to drill a small hole in the case and prop the door open during the summer using a wooden dowel.

Yardbrew
 
#6 ·
My solution was to drill a small hole in the case and prop the door open during the summer using a wooden dowel.

Yardbrew
Any chance you can provide a photo and dimensions of where you drilled this hole?
 
#3 ·
Yeah, I've currently got a self tapping screw holding the door to "cool". Not ideal but I guess it will do. Here in Albuquerque we get enough of all four seasons that it would be nice to have it work right, but not worth major surgery and $$ though.
 
#4 ·
I called F**d when mine failed and they looked it up...........I'm thinking it was over a hundred bucks for that little piece of plastic. When I got up off the floor, I asked the counter jockey to recheck and he affirmed the price. At that point, I decided to go look in a junkyard.

Yardbrew
 
#5 ·
Found this this write up on the job. Sounds like with the right combination of words it can be done w/o disconnecting the unit. Probably just pull the door out and repair it. Can't be that difficult to repair the door. Maybe make a template of it and get rich selling sheet metal reproductions on the interwebs.:lol:
 
#8 ·
I safety-wired the door position to "permanent AC", also disconnected & plugged the hot water lines going to the rear unit.
We get about 2 days of cold weather every year, and anyone sitting that far back can wear a jacket in the van those two days!
 
#9 ·
After you get the old one out, it would probably take a few minutes with some tin snips, a drill, & a pop riveter to build a durable door out of some scrap Aluminum. Do you have an old license plate lying around?
 
#11 ·
My rear heater lines, under body, started to leak, so I unclipped lines , & ran a "U" joint to bypass the rear lines. I took off dog house & the quick disconnects are right there. But before messing with them, get new "O"rings and the little white plastic inserts. Mine broke, they get brittle. Advance auto parts has the entire quick disconnect, so I bought two & swapped out the guts. The U piece I had to fabricate out of copper plumbing parts. If you don't care for the quick disconnects, you cold just cut the hoses, & put a barbed coupling in the two & clamp. I pinched off the hoses, and lost very little coolant, while doing job.
 
#13 ·
That would work if you wanted to stop flow. But for a leak, I would need one of those valves on both sides of lines to prevent back flow. Also I'm not sure if stopping flow would change anything in engine flow/cooling, causing dead ends or dead spots. It would be nice to hear from a Ford engineer on this question, because in summer I choke off my front heater core, approx. 70-90% with a manual valve.
 
#17 ·
But for a leak, I would need one of those valves on both sides of lines to prevent back flow.
Those valves aren't water-tight; they just severely restrict the flow. So if there's a leak, it'll keep leaking no matter how many of those valves you use.
Also I'm not sure if stopping flow would change anything in engine flow/cooling, causing dead ends or dead spots.
If it's plumbed in ONLY on the rear heater branch, it won't affect the engine. Flow will be the same as if there was no rear heater system. If you want to shut off BOTH heater cores, you need this 4-port valve between the engine's heater outlet/return nipples and the heater cores:

. .
 
#18 ·
See #14 of 14, in the first pic, you can clearly see the heater lines running vertically on the left side, with the quick disconnects. The
title of topic;


HPOP is leaking... What else should I do while I'm in there?
 
#15 · (Edited)
I cant believe I forgot to take any pics. I just got a used smart phone & frequently forget! RRRRrrrrr, if I take dog house off again, I'll try to remember.
Here is a bypass u bend on ebay , mine is similar but with copper plumbing fittings soldered up &. I had to make thin little rings to solder on approx. 7/8" from end, for the plastic quick connects to lock on to.
"U" Bend Shaped Aluminum Pipe Fitting 5 8 for Heater Core Bypass w Hose Clamps | eBayand here is what the quick disconnect looks like,& what advance auto sells. There are two o-rings inside with a plastic separator ring in between O-rings & a plastic guide ring just inside white clip.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/U-bend-shap...ash=item43e88f563d:g:vwkAAOSwo6lWNDHv&vxp=mtr

 
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