I noticed that the oil leak on my used 2011 F350 has been getting worse since I bought it. It seemed like it was only a few drips here and there but now it is leaving little puddles in a few hours of sitting. It will drip a little while running even at this point. I'm trying to find out where to start because it seems like it is leaking up on top near turbo and running all the way down to the bottom of the oil pan. I have a couple of photos to help show what I'm talking about. I don't have a warranty or anything so this is going to be a diy repair if I can. Any ideas on what might be causing this leak? Reading other posts about oil leaks on these 6.7L makes me think it might be a high pressure oil leak but I could be wrong.
Bottom of Oil Pan:
Looking up the left side of block near oil filter:
Looking through passenger side fender to engine block:
The 2011 models have a plastic engine oil pan which is prone to cracking and subsequently starts to leak. You can pick up a steel Dorman pan online for as little as $25 (Dorman Steel Oil Pan on eBay). However, with that said, that is an awful lot of oil and prudence suggests that it is a pressurized leak which likely means the rear main seal. If it were mine, I would pick up several cans of cheap brake cleaner at Walmart, spread some plastic underneath the truck, hose the engine down and remove all of the crud. You will then have a better idea of where the oil leak originates.
I was thinking about replacing the oil pan with a metal one due to the complaints of the plastic one, so that is a good idea and thanks for the link. I think that you're also right in haveing to clean as much of that oil mess up to try and see where it is starting from. That will be my first step it seems like.
First, your 6.7L PSD does not have a high pressure oil system. Second, the pictures you provided only show the evidence of an oil leak, and an oil leak that has been present for some time. Keep in mind that all loil leaks on this engine end up at the oil pan.
With that said, do not discount the oil pan as they are known to leak... the composite pan is no longer available and they supersede to the new metal pan. If you replace the pan you will also need to order 17 new pan bolts. You mention that the leak appears to be coming from the top rear of the engine which indicates to me the turbo as you mentioned. The turbocharger oil supply fittings are known sources of leaks as is the coolant supply line connector.
Other common leaks on 2011 engines include the crankcase vent oil separator to valve cover o-rings, the vacuum pump bolts tend to loosen and oil leaks doen the front and sides of the engine and front crankshaft seals.
So I know it was almost a year since I originally posted this but I thought I would post a update to possibly help others in my situation. I never fixed this oil leak till today because when I originally found the leak it was minor and I was about to go on a long trip from Ohio to New Hampshire and was not willing to take on the challenge to repair the leak due to the thought of what might go wrong or parts that may be needed and I didn't want to take the risk of jeopardizing our trip. So like a naughty vehicle owner I let it go until it was leaving 3"+ oil puddles everywhere and so since it was nice out the last couple of days and warm I took on the challenge. I took everything apart down to the turbo and determined that the turbo oil quick connect fitting was leaking which proved the known issue that many others have mentioned. I replaced the quick connect connectors and the oil line at the same time. I also took the liberty of replacing the coolant line and quick connect connectors as well since I had it apart. I let the truck idle for a long time and no more leaks Before the repair it would start leaking right away. If you have oil all down the back side of the motor on either side of the oil pan or oil collecting in the valley near the turbo it is a good chance you have the same issue as I did.
If your going to replace the oil feed line and coolant feed line the part numbers are:
BC3Z-6A968-C Need 2 one for top of turbo oil line and one for top of turbo coolant line.
BC3Z-6A968-D Below turbo on engine block oil line connector.
BC3Z-6B689-A This is the oil feed tube.
BC3Z-9U469-A This is the water coolant tube.
I didn't replace any gaskets I just reused the old ones and everything seems fine. Unless you damage a gasket taking it apart they should be alright to reuse. I would say it is up to you if you want to change all the gaskets as well.
Thank you sir. I did some more digging and found what you posted. I appreciate the help. My local dealer had everything except BC3Z-6A968-D.
One thing isn't matching up though. Part# BC3Z-6A968-D is showing as the coolant connector. Part# BC3Z-6A968-C are the oil fittings, and I was under the impression that you use both of those on the oil line, (1) in front of turbo, and (1) in the back passenger side of the turbo. PArt # BC3Z-6A968-D is the coolant connector and is used on the driver-side rear of the turbo where the coolant line connects. Am I mistaken, or is there something that I'm not putting together?
Never mind, after reviewing this video: @ 22:14 it does show the longer connector (BC3Z-6A968-D)with the oil tube in front of the turbo.
Doesn't look like I'll be able to get to this over the long weekend after all...
Either way, I'm glad you posted cause I would have had everything torn down and found out I didn't have the part I needed.
BC3Z-6A968-D that's the one the dealer was not showing correctly to me either and I figured it out for myself. I already had mine torn apart to take the connector with me to show them. If you got all the others and once you get BC3Z-6A968-D you will be good to go. I also used that video for reference while working on mine. Also make sure you double and triple check the electrical plugs you take off that you put them back on because I forgot one and caused a check engine light. Was a easy fix but confused me as to why the light was on when it wasn't before.
So even with the repairs I made there is still oil leaking from somewhere. I used a small camera to make sure that the new connectors I put in are not leaking and they are not. There is oil collecting in the engine valley still, so does anyone have an idea what else might be leaking? The oil is going all the way down to the bottom of engine and leaking off a corner of the oil pan. There is no oil anywhere on the front side of the motor.
I didn't find out what the leak after the fixes I did was and it hasn't been leaking much anymore from what I can tell. If it is leaking still it is not leaving oil on the ground for me to notice. It could have been residual oil that I wasn't able to get all out of the valley on the engine block were it likes to collect.
Hey Russ, any updates? I just replaced my turbo oil and coolant feed lines As well and still have a slight drip. Hoping it’s residual oil and not still leaking so curious how you made out and if your leak eventually stopped or not?
edit: my leak seems to be stopping so must have been some residual oil off the top of the engine is all.
With a bad enough leak to cause oil to pool in the valley it can take some time for residual oil to gravitate to the lower parts of the engine even if you clean it all up as best you can and wash it off. A leak such as this can also cause oil to run down the front of the engine as well.
Well that’s how I found this leak in the first place but thank you for your input. I’m just curious on what’s causing the oil to leak out. I am going to replace oil line tomorrow and see if that was the culprit. But any other ideas on what’s causing the leak ? I did have oil leaking from the inter cooler pipe connecting to the turbo however I don’t think that was it but is it possible that it could be that much oil from that? I do not want to do a ccv delete either.
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