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'2011 King Ranch blown engine

15K views 35 replies 16 participants last post by  Flyingdutchman 
#1 ·
Just to add another to the list.

2011 F350 King Ranch CC 94,000 mile

I have owned this truck since less the 10 miles on the odometer and have performed all maintenance items.
Other than a couple egt sensors this truck has been great, but now I'm looking at $12,000 plus to put it back on the road.

I really expected this one to go several hundred thousand miles before total engine failure.

As can be seen in my signature I have been a loyal ford fan for many years.

I'm just wondering what is coming for my 2015 f450 though.

After paying a $10k premium, expensive maintenance and being on a flat bed three times, no help what so every on even trying to figure out what causied this engine fail, I'm done with Ford 6.7 Diesel engines.

Hate to go but they pi$$ed me off this time, I'll see if someone else would like to sell me a truck.

Regards
 
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#2 ·
Wow, sorry to hear.

So where do you go from here?

Put 12k in it then sell it or just scrap it and start over with something else?
 
#5 · (Edited by Moderator)
That is what I thought of my 2011, good luck to you sir!

I asked what I could reasonably expect for mileage life of this motor before one would expect to do an overhaul.
This truck has been used well within reason, towing loads of not over 15k lbs, I never really "lean on it" going up or down grades here in the west.

Response from dealership: crickets

I asked the tech if I could tear the motor down to possibly find what went wrong. He said Ford wants the motor intact
or I wouldn't receive the core value. I told them I would sell it to them for $5000 or I will turn it into a coffee table.

On a side note, the only code when the motor let go was "#4 cylinder injector voltage out of range". If I'm not mistaken this is the cylinder that is used for active regen. I'm sure someone on here could verify.

When the motor let go I was driving at highway speed (55 mph here in Oregon) pulling my fifth wheel RV. At first it sounded like a right front tire was coming undone, slapping the wheel well. Pulled over, stopped, noise still there, not a tire. Next thought maybe serpentine belt going away. Nope hood open, still running, don't want to shut it down yet and cook the turbo ya know. Shut its self down trying to jump out of the engine compartment. I know in my heart it dropped a valve which eventually took out the motor. My dumb #@@ guess, the regen cylinder exhaust valve was cooked and is the culprit.

Maybe some on here have other thoughts or ideas. I would certainly love to here everyone's thoughts.

It actually was quite humorous aside from the blown motor, as I was following my wife driving the F450 pulling a gooseneck race trailer, my son driving the Dodge dually and me bringing up the rear. Of course there was no cell service. Thankfully a nice gentleman with Oregon DOT gave me a lift to their service shop to use the phone. Called wife and son to ask them if they missed me yet. They said they were wondering what happened to me! I told them not to worry as I had food, beer, bathroom, parked in a good spot! Wife made the 80 mile round trip home to drop the race trailer and returning to finish the trip for the RV. She showed at about the same time the tow company with their semi- truck sized wrecker as I told them they would be towing a F350 CC with a 36' fifth wheel toy hauler. Got it all home with only a four hour delay, not bad concidering.
 
#4 ·
I seriously have considered just getting rid of the thing "as is". I had the local dealership value it at around $7500 with a non
running engine or $32,000 in good running condition.


I am having my local Ford dealership install the new long block with its $12k cost purely as a way to recover
some of the value of the truck.

I guess what really got me was when someone at the dealership said it was too bad the 2017 F 350
I have on order hadn't showed up yet. Yeah right they will be keeping that one!
 
#6 ·
Good reads, thanks for sharing.

Just curious- and not that it has Anything to do with the engine failure- but just for grins-
What oil did you use for that engines lifespan?

I'm also in a 2011 with just over 102,000 miles now and plan on running it another 40k or so before trading in.
 
#8 ·
10-4.
Had you listed the oil I've been using I'd be sweating it a smidge more. But seeing how you were using what some consider the best, maybe I should still sweat a little anyways.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#9 ·
I am not sure what the build date is on your 2011, but I am almost positive the early 2011 engines had a known issue with exhaust valves. I would question if the engine is under 100K miles if that known issue is not covered. Not sure if this applies but it may (note the bold text):

6.7L DIESEL - RUNS ROUGH - NO CRANK - GLOW PLUG CIRCUIT DIAGNOSTIC
TROUBLE CODES (DTCS) - BUILT ON OR BEFORE 3/29/2011
TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN
Reference Number(s): 14-0127, Date of Issue: July 3, 2014
Superceded Bulletin(s): 12-11-11, Date of Issue: November 16, 2012
Related Ref Number(s): 12-11-11, 14-0127
ARTICLE BEGINNING
ISSUE
Some 2011 F-Super Duty vehicles equipped with a 6.7L diesel engine and built on or before
3/29/2011 may exhibit a runs rough or no crank concern due to a broken exhaust valve.
DTCs P0671,
P0672, P0673, P0674, P0675, P0676, P0677 and/or P0678 may be stored in the powertrain control
module (PCM) from a damaged glow plug. The glow plug circuit DTCs may also be accompanied by
cylinder misfire DTCs, cylinder contribution DTCs or other engine performance DTCs.
ACTION
Follow the Service Procedure steps to correct the condition.
SERVICE PROCEDURE
1. Does the vehicle exhibit a runs rough, no crank concern with any of the following DTCs
P0671, P0672, P0673, P0674, P0675, P0676, P0677 and/or P0678?
a. No - this article does not apply. Refer to the Powertrain Control/Emissions Diagnosis
(PC/ED) manual for normal diagnosis.
b. Yes - proceed to Step 2.
2. Remove and inspect the glow plug associated with glow plug circuit DTC present. Refer to
Workshop Manual (WSM), Section 303-07C. Is the glow plug damaged?
a. No - this article does not apply. Refer to the PC/ED manual for normal diagnosis.
b. Yes - replace the engine long block. Refer to WSM, Section 303-01C.
1. For prior approval warranty repairs, complete the cost cap tool by selecting short
block, both cylinder heads, oil cooler and 16 lifters.
 
#11 ·
Damnit man,,, My 2011 is a "Job 1" truck, with the two tone leather. Not sure of the build date, but I bought it in Sept of 2010.... so early for sure.
 
#10 ·
Sadly, you are out of warranty on that 2011. My bet too is failed exhaust valve as noted in the TSB above. This is the very reason I got rid of my 2011 last year, just after I crossed 100K miles. Just to clarify your statement, cyl #4 is not the "active regen" cylinder, at least not by itself. Prior to a calibration change last year, just one of the banks was firing for regen, don't recall which side. Then new calibration came out, that now make all the cylinders contribute to the regen process. The other common problem with 2011, 2012's are the turbo's, especially if running a tune that increases boost. Those were also known as a weak link.

My guess is your 2015 F450 will be rock solid for a long time to come. I monitor this board, and another, and there have been very few common issues like yours in the 2015-2016 model years. Jury is out on 2017's yet, but no reason to believe anything bad there, as the powertrain is close to identical to the 2016's.

My fear is that we will see a spike in 2011 grenading this year, and beyond, as the used prices on these are low enough that they are getting popular.
 
#15 ·
Oh...I'm not sure on that. I think everything on these trucks goes by the truck build date. Ford then keeps track of all components internal from that. I could be wrong, but when I read the text you highlighted in the TSB, I understand that as saying all Superduty's built on or before 3/29/2011.... Maybe someone with some deeper knowledge will chime in for us.
 
#16 ·
Just go to dealer with VIN, they can pull up when the engine was built.
 
#31 ·
My 2011 built Sept 2010



My 2011 I traded was built 9/2010.. bought it new.. put dpf twice in the fuel tank by accident early on as it was new to me.. Never drained the tanks..just the water filter..added tons of Power Service to flush it out etc. whatever.. towed and worked it until I traded for my 2016 ..it had 125k or more and ran like a champ..go figure. I used PS alot (not every tank) fearing the HPFP would blow due to corrosion from the DEF. Never happened. Trans was acting up and had other issues so interest rates were at 1.9 and trade was good. This 2016 has been flawless.

I hauled a 4k plus pound Camper in the Bed around the USA alot with it. Plowed snow alot as well as tow a Vnose trailer around all the time for work.etc.
 
#18 ·
If it's due to the regen cycles and something with #4 cylinder, I may simply continue with my delete, pull all my GP out and replace them,, if the GP was breaking off and taking out the valve, then that's what it would take to reasonably prevent it I'd bet...
 
#19 ·
From what I have read in various places:


  • More than #4 cylinder is involved in a regen cycle (it is the whole left bank)
  • The glowplugs are a separate issue
  • The exhaust valves on both sides of the engine are involved in the recall
 
#20 ·
Great, my truck was built 2/11-
It no longer regens so maybe that will help it last?

I'm really not in a position to buy a new one since we purchased my wife a new truck when I paid the Ford off.

So now I'm stuck with crossing my fingers and hope this doesn't happen to me or trade it off for a like valued gasser to get me through until hers is paid off.

If I knew I was doomed I Would sell mine outright, pay hers off with the proceeds and buy new- with low $$ down which isn't very desirable.

Problem with all that is my truck runs great and has since new.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
#21 · (Edited)
Truck is all better! $11,426 out the door. New (not reman) 2017 engine. Used all the old injectors, turbo, water pump, etc.

Not one word from Ford on what may have caused this motor to grenade. I am disappointed in zero communication about my issue. I guess I will take that in consideration on my next pickup. I just don't know if the other two are any better.

On a good note Suburban Ford in Sandy OR was very professional and appreciative of having the work. They kept me informed along the way and got it done in about 3 days once they had the motor, gaskets, etc.

Thanks to all the comments here and good luck to 2011 pre March build owners.

Regards
 

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#22 ·
Truck is all better! $11,426 out the door. New (not reman) 2017 engine. Used all the old injectors, turbo, water pump, etc.

Not one word from Ford on what may have caused this motor to grenade. I am disappointed in zero communication about my issue. I guess I will take that in consideration on my next pickup. I just don't know if the other two are any better.

On a good note Suburban Ford in Sandy OR was very professional and appreciative of having the work. They kept me informed along the way and got it done in about 3 days once they had the motor, gaskets, etc.

Thanks to all the comments here and good luck to 2011 pre March build owners.

Regards



What about the fuel pump- new or your old one?


I've been debating on what to do with my 2011.
It drives and runs so great I have a hard time letting it go.


A few weeks ago I installed all new body bushings, Bilstein shocks, changed the differential fluids and transfer case fluids.
I was about to tackle the coolant when I stumbled on this thread.
Now I playing the odds.
 
#24 ·
I know it seems cheap. I think a lot of cost comes in with the extra like turbos, injectors, fuel pumps, egr coolers.
I used my old fuel pump.

The motor was $9,500 less 3K core charge, rest was labor.

I didn't think the motor cost was too bad, I recently had Polaris quote me $7,500 for a new motor for my RZR! I don't think so!

I reused everything that was still serviceable, trying to keep the cost down.

I will probably sell the pickup in the fall and order a new 2018. Still haven't decided on which mfg though
 
#26 ·
These manufacturers all do just as Ford did with this, put out a TSB but only do something about what happens during the warranty period to get by as cheaply as possible (CYA). They should be notifying owners so owners can if still under warranty get something done. If not under warranty then get something done which is cheaper than a new long block. I experienced this issue with a 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee which the issue showed up at 180,000 miles and up until then was running strong and had I known about the valve spring issue all I would have had to do was a valve job or replace the heads. I put out $5000.00 on a re-manufactured 4.7 engine. I know that sounds like a lot of money to spend on that old of car but it was in good shape and my wife wanted to keep her car and not have to get used to a new car.
 
#27 ·
Wow, what a kick in the Cajones... My early build '04 King Ranch 6.0 blew itself into oblivion at 31k miles when an Injector tip fell into the cylinder pouring raw fuel into it, punched a hole in the exhaust valve, bent the piston rod, melted the piston, and sent raw Diesel all through the Intercooler, Turbo and out the exhaust... Such joy... It was covered under the factory warranty and they replaced it with a re-man, but re-used as many old parts as they could... I unfortunately still have it, as well as a 2014 F350 6.7 which has been good so far...
How sad is it that when you post that it cost you $11,000, someone responded that "you got off cheap", and they weren't kidding...? Sad state of affairs that these diesels just aren't even remotely reliable, nor durable, nor trustworthy...
 
#30 ·
It is so true that everyone feels I got off "cheap" at $11,500. What a sad state of affairs.

Not that it will make you feel any better, but to prove my point here, I was thinking about your $11k+ engine bill on my drive home yesterday in my wife's Mercedes Benz Diesel ML320 CDI... We also own an MB GLK 250 Blue Tec Diesel, and neither of those Diesel engines has given us a single bit of trouble, even with 130,000 on the ML and 60,000 on the GLK... Change the oil, add Blue Def when required, and they start, run and never, ever blow even a hint of Black smoke on acceleration... The difference between those European Engineered Diesels and my 2 - Ford Engineered Diesels is night and day... Curious, I looked at an article yesterday that stated MB is considering getting into the Medium Sized Pickup Truck (MB X-Class) market in the US in 2017 with a Diesel of their own... Seems like a huge opportunity given the "sad state of Diesel offerings" the US Manufacturers are putting out these days... Too bad it will only have 7000 lbs towing capacity...
 
#29 · (Edited)
2011 King Ranch blown engine

So does anyone know how common this failure is?

I'm gonna talk to my local diesel shop on Monday and will decide what to do with my truck from there.

My truck blew the plastic pipe going to the turbo last week while towing my 5th wheel. It was an "oh crap what happened" moment.
Luckily I remembered it was one of the easily fixed weak parts to this motor.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#33 ·
an O2 sensor? Did I miss something here?
 
#34 · (Edited)
I'm another buyer of a early 2010 Built 6.7. I drove the Truck for 5yrs and the only issue was a bad DEF Level Sensor, and EGT Sensor. After reading all of the Horror Stories about the early Built 6.7s I traded mine with 60K MI on a 2016 which is Essentially the same truck. I was within $5K of Owning the 2011 outright, but now I don't worry that the engine will eat a Valve every time that I drive the New Truck.
 

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#35 ·
I have a later built 6.7 F350 Dually CC. But it is still before the 3/26/11 date. I have the extended warranty until 124,000 miles. If it grenades before that then it will be on ford. If it doesn't I will get it in and have all the valves and seats replaced when they rebuild the heads. Holding my breath.
 
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