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6.7L Oil Leak

176K views 63 replies 24 participants last post by  Stroking it 
#1 ·
Well guys I crawled under the truck to drain the water separator yesterday and noticed I have an oil leak,Haven't noticed any spots on the ground yet.. I do my own oil changes so I know it wasn't spilled oil..
Wonder where it could be coming from,at 1st I thought front main seal but then noticed oil on top of the motor so now im not sure..
Any idea's? Would like to see if I could fix it myself if its an easy fix before I take it into the dealer..

Top of motor..


Bottom side

 
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#3 ·
Can you direct me to the Vac. pump,maybe a bolt is loose and I can put a wrench on it and stop the leak...
 
#4 ·
Guess i'm on my own on this one,surpized no one has chimed in other than FishOnone........
 
#5 ·
Also heard reports of the vacuum pump leaking. Some repairs covered and some not. Does not seem to be a pattern of which dealers are covering this repair under the 5yr/100k powertrain. Bad (maybe) news for me, taking mine in tomorrow for what appears to be same issue (79k miles), we'll see how my local dealer treats me.
BTW, dealer told me if the leak is an accessory like the ps pump or ac pump, not covered. Told me if this is an engine related oil leak, should be covered. Guess it all comes up to if the vacuum pump is considered an accessory.

jammer :cool:
 
#6 ·
Let me know how it goes,im at 56k on mine... I got a closer look the other day and it is coming from the vacuum pump.. Im tempted to get in there with a wrench and see if I can tighten it before I take it in...

Does anyone know what all needs to be done to get to the pump per the shop manual?
 
#7 · (Edited)
Took a few minutes to snoop around under the hood, sure enough, I can see the top of the vacuum pump (mounts on upper right front of motor) and it is definitely the culprit! Looks like all of the intake stuff from the airbox to the manifold has to come off just to get access. Will be a total PITA, but I'm not paying F*&^D $700 to $1000 bucks to fix if they don't warrantee this. Sure seems like a systemic failure as many of the boards are showing the same issue. Since failure of the pump could affect the 4WD systems (hub locking) and ultimately the motor, this could be a safety issue, maybe should be reported to the NHTSA???

jammer
 
#9 ·
I noticed an oil leak just last week, right after I tore the ball joints out'a my daily driver. The week before I had the engine stumble on me real bad and throw a code. At first I thought I had hit the wrong gear, but hadn't. Saw some oil on the outside of the turbo oil return this morning.

It's run OK since then. If the oil leaks as fast as the crankcase backs up, at least I won't have to worry about that CCV filter getting 'plugged up' again!
 
#12 ·
My old service writer left the dealership, I can only guess why. His replacement may need some more training.
At this point, I have asked the FordService rep to step in and get me some help. Will update as I have more info.
 
#13 ·
This is why if I can go in and tighten a few bolts to stop the leak I will... Isn't there a $50 deductible on the repair anyway even under warranty?

Will someone post the repair from the service manual please?
 
#14 ·
This is why if I can go in and tighten a few bolts to stop the leak I will... Isn't there a $50 deductible on the repair anyway even under warranty?

Will someone post the repair from the service manual please?
Some say that a new gasket is needed, some say the issue is an o-ring. Could be the same thing. The vacuum pump lives behind the idler pulley (upper right side of motor) and is driven by the hpop. (This is as much as I have been able to discover)

I am sure that some diesel tech has access to the sm and could share the procedure for r/r the vacuum pump.

$50 deductible only applies to extended warranty.


jammer :cool:
 
#18 ·
This is a list of TSB's from forum member EricInWi. The valley on my motor is full of oil and it drips down the bell housing. I am in the process of trying to narrow down where the source is, I am thinking it is the turbo lines.

21374 6.7L OIL LEAK DIAGNOSTIC TIP
SOME 6.7L DIESEL ENGINE EQUIPPED VEHICLES MAY EXHIBIT PERCEIVED ENGINE FLUID LEAKS THAT MAY APPEAR TO BE COMING FROM THE PASSENGER SIDE OF THE FRONT COVER BEHIND THE SECONDARY WATERPUMP OR FROM THE TRANSMISSION BELLHOUSING AREA. THESE CONCERNS MAY BE DUE TO OIL OR OTHER FLUIDS COLLECTING IN THE ENGINE VALLEY AND THEN DRAINING OUT THE FRONT ENGINE VALLEY DRAIN OR OUT THE REAR OF THE ENGINE VALLEY. IT IS RECOMMENDED TO INSPECT THE ENGINE VALLEY TO ENSURE FLUIDS HAVE NOT COLLECTED IN THIS AREA PRIOR TO PERFORMING NORMAL FLUID LEAK DIAGNOSTICS.
EFFECTIVE DATE: 06/14/2010

21389 6.7L DIESEL - OIL LEAK - REAR MAIN SEAL
SOME 6.7L DIESEL EQUIPPED VEHICLES MAY EXHIBIT AN OIL LEAK FROM THE REAR MAIN SEAL AREA. THIS MAY BE CAUSED BY THE OUTER SEAL DIAMETER BEING DAMAGED BY THE CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR (CKP) DURING ENGINE ASSEMBLY. WHEN FOLLOWING THE WORKSHOP MANUAL (WSM) REAR MAIN SEAL REPLACEMENT SERVICE PROCEDURE IN SECTION 303-01C, LUBRICATE THE REAR MAIN SEALS' OUTER DIAMETER WITH CLEAN ENGINE OIL AND LOOSEN THE CKP RETAINING BOLT 2 COMPLETE TURNS PRIOR TO SEAL INSTALLATION TO PREVENT POSSIBLE CONTACT/DAMAGE DURING SEAL INSTALLATION. AFTER SEAL INSTALLATION, TORQUE THE CKP RETAINING BOLT TO 10 NM (89 LB-IN). THE ON-LINE WSM IS CURRENTLY IN THE PROCESS OF BEING UPDATED WITH THIS ADDITIONAL INFORMATION.
EFFECTIVE DATE: 06/25/2010

21448 6.7L DIESEL - OIL LEAK
SOME 6.7L DIESEL EQUIPPED VEHICLES MAY EXHIBIT AN OIL LEAK FROM THE TOP OF THE LEFT SIDE OF THE ENGINE THAT MAY COLLECT IN AND AROUND THE FUEL INJECTORS OR ALONG THE VALVE COVER. THIS MAY BE DUE TO THE OIL FILL TUBE (BASE PART 6763) TO VALVE COVER O-RING SEAL BEING MISPOSITIONED OR DAMAGED. INSPECT THE AREA TO DETERMINE THE SOURCE OF THE LEAK AND REPAIR AS NECESSARY.
EFFECTIVE DATE: 08/09/2010

21457 6.7L DIESEL - OIL LEAK AT TURBOCHARGER
SOME 2011 6.7L DIESEL EQUIPPED VEHICLES MAY EXHIBIT AN OIL LEAK FROM THE TURBOCHARGER SUPPLY LINE OR FITTINGS. THESE COMPONENTS ARE AVAILABLE SEPARATELY AND DO NOT REQUIRE TURBOCHARGER REPLACEMENT (FITTINGS 6A968, LINE 6B689). IF LEAK IS BETWEEN THE FITTING AND LINE USE BOTH PARTS. THE CORRECT TOOL TO DISCONNECT LINE IS A 3/8 INCH QUICK LINE DISCONNECT TOOL, SUCH AS SNAP-ON LDTSP4 OR EQUIVALENT. TURBOCHARGER OIL SUPPLY FITTING TORQUE IS 20-28 NM (177-247 LBS-IN). PLEASE ENSURE THAT THE LINE IS COMPLETELY CONNECTED AND THE RETAINING CLIPS ARE IN PLACE.
EFFECTIVE DATE: 08/13/2010
 
#20 ·
@ Crystal: Thanks, waiting to hear from regional.
@ Shane: Thanks for the TSBs, unfortunately, none of these apply to a leak between the vacuum pump and the hpop.

jammer
 
#21 ·
Regional rep called this am. Polite guy, but not any real help. Per his suggestion, taking truck back to dealer for 'diagnosis' of the oil leak.

We'll see how Monday goes!

jammer
 
#22 ·
had mine fixed under warranty, the bolts on the vacuum pump were loose causing an OIL LEAK from the motor not the vac pump. find a new dealer this is why the test they start with to find the OIL LEAK is a DIE ADDED TO THE OIL witch we all know gets added to the oil pan so it can be pumped to find the leak, the vac pump holds the gasket in place keeping the oil inside the motor. they are probably looking at this as the vac pump is bad when its not bad, good luck
 
#24 · (Edited)
Yep, just as I expected. Local FMC dealer just called, diagnosed truck and is refusing to repair under warranty. Problem is vacuum pump gasket.
Engine is leaking oil, my problem, not theirs.
So disappointed in my local dealer.

Will repair myself. .



jammer
 
#26 ·
Haven't heard the tag line "Quality is job 1" lately. :icon_rolleyes:

As soon as I figure out everything I have to get off the motor in order to get to the pump, I'll be checking for loose bolts and/or replacing the cheap gasket.

Just wanted FMC to take care of an engine oil leak, but it looks like they're not too keen on keeping their customer base, at least here in Castle Rock!

Closest dealer other than MedV*& is 30 miles away; total PITA to drop off the truck there.

Oh well...................... :ugh:

jammer
 
#28 ·
Jermort keep us in loop on how hard it is to get to the pump,the SM only give 1.4hr labor so it shouldn't be to bad to fix... Take some pics if you can...
 
#29 · (Edited)
At this point, before I order parts, I'm going to wait for the Regional service manager to call me (as promised) for a follow up, who knows, maybe a miracle will happen. :rolleyes:

side note: since the weather has warmed up somewhat, the leak has really slowed down. I'm suspecting all that aluminum and steel changed sizes when it was really cold. Maybe a simple bolt snugging is in order. :rolleyes:

jammer
 
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