I posted this in another forum so I apologize to those who've already seen this. It's a quick video of my first oil change with a good review of the new quarter-turn drain plug.
I didn't think to pre-fill the filter before installing it on the truck. I've since learned that some people do and some people don't. It's probably a good idea to do it because it is a large volume to fill. I'd like to hear if there is any data on whether or not it provides any benefit.
I twisted the original filter off by hand. It took both hands and was at the limit of what I would do without a filter wrench. Next time I think I'm going to punch a hole in the bottom of the filter to drain it before removing it. Should make the process less messy. If it's really easy to penetrate the filter housing, you could use an awl to punch a hole sideways and break the filter loose that way (or just use a filter wrench).
Yea, it seems they changed that at some point after mid-May.
Mine was built around then and I have the twisted metal.
It's not bad but it could be easier and less troublesome.
I twisted the original filter off by hand. It took both hands and was at the limit of what I would do without a filter wrench. Next time I think I'm going to punch a hole in the bottom of the filter to drain it before removing it. Should make the process less messy. If it's really easy to penetrate the filter housing, you could use an awl to punch a hole sideways and break the filter loose that way (or just use a filter wrench).
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I would consider punching a hole on the bottom of the filter to drain it before removing... only after I was assured that the filter was loose. If you end up not being able to get the filter off.. and it has a hole in it, your looking at a tow. I only put on the filter hand tight. The next oil change I can turn it off by hand. I hate oil filter wrenches. There is really no reason to use one.
Hey, I'll trade you my twisted metal for your cable... lol. I think it was Ford's intention to put the cable dip sticks in the beginning but may have had supply/manufacturing issues and went with the temporary twisted metal. All current trucks are shipping with the cool cable.
As far as the benefits of filling the filter at least partly first is simply the peace of mind that nothing is "Starving" on start up. It may not be a problem, but it just makes sense that at least some very minor chance of damage is there... however unlikely. I try to put at least 3/4 of the filter full of oil.
I don't know about the Ford (yet), but Cummins states that prefilling the oil filter is "required and mandatory" because it is considered abuse if it is not done. The Cummins oil filter holds 1 qt. and takes a long time to pump up if empty.
To change the engine oil and oil filter: 1. Unscrew the oil filter and oil pan drain plug and wait for the oil to drain. Note: The oil pan drain plug only requires 1/4 turn to removal/install. A 3/8 inch socket drive may be used to assist with removal/installation, but be careful not to over-tighten the plug during installation. 2. Replace the filter. 3. Reinstall the oil pan drain plug. 4. Refill the engine with new oil. For the proper capacity, see Maintenance product specifications and capacities in this chapter. 5. Reset the Intelligent Oil Life Monitor™. See Message center in the Instrument Cluster chapter for more information.
Obviously says nothing about pre-filling the filter which makes me feel better. Is this practice common in dealerhsips or at Ford? Or is this something that is just a good idea perpetuated in the forums? I wonder if the factory pre-fills the filters.
The engine basicily has a lack of oil as it is trying to fill a empty oil filter. Alot of engines when you put it up dry. They will hammer for about 10 seconds till it gets full. Ford had a problem on the 300 6 cyl of oil
bleed off oil filter and knock badly cold. Put in a one way ck valve. Many many years ago to resolve. You just can't hear the knock on a diesel like a gas burner.
But the 6.7 filter will hold alot of oil.
Cool Video... Now I know what to expect. That is nice stream of oil coming out and a rather snazzy oil pan plug. Wonder if Fumoto will be able to make one for it.
EC..prefilling o/f isn't NEW. Opin's your getting right now are same reason's given looooong ago.(way before internet) Is it really real critical to do, I dont think so. Does it make sense to do, I think so. JMO! At least you have option to do which I can't on mine.
btw...Good to see you've joined (literally) the DIY club. :thumbsup: Good luck
How long before some enterprising company comes up with a locking device for it?
I don't know about you, but I don't think I'd want my oil drain plug to be so easily removed with a 3/8ths inch drive socket wrench, especially on a truck that some scumbag can crawl under really easily.
I don't know about you, but I don't think I'd want my oil drain plug to be so easily removed with a 3/8ths inch drive socket wrench, especially on a truck that some scumbag can crawl under really easily.
If someone is under your truck with a ratchet, he probably also has the sockets to remove a normal drain plug. I really don't think it will be an issue.
You guys sound like you are in doubt about something as simple as changing oil and filters. No, you do not have to pre-fill the oil filter...that engine can run for quite awhile before any damage results...
No, never ever put a hole in your old filter to remove it...I always remove mine bare-hands or use a filter wrench...the difference between a idiot and a profession is the kinds of tools he owns and uses(Right Tool for the Right Job)
Yes, lube the oil filter gasket or ring...turn it freely until it seats, then tighten by hand 3/4 turn. Use clean hands when tightening...Hee, Hee
Invest in a spill pan in case you make a mistake.
Buy an extra plug...in case you make a mistake(Glove Box Storage)
I have a new cap for my oil, and two fuel filters on my 6.4L
Good Vid (Pre-fill the oil filter) I guess you would do this on a horizontal oil filter? Hee,Hee
I'd like to send a oil sample in for a UOA when I hit 5000 miles. The problem is that the dealer gave me a free first oil change (I'll be doing my own after that). Do you think they would capture a sample for me or should I attempt to get a sample before I have them change the oil?
I was thinking that if the oil is cold I could grab a sample and replace the plug without too much of a mess. Can anyone who has experience with the new drain plug say whether or not this is possible?
I'm sure you could do it. There's just not much room for error if the drain plug is removed too far. It's a large hole in the oil pan and the oil comes out quickly. Perhaps if you turn the plug slowly and carefully (not pulling it out completely), you can get enough out to sample and then just quickly click the plug back in place. It's do-able.
Why do you feel an oil sample is needed at the first oil change? I've never done oil analysis and I've got an '87 F 350 6.9 with almost 300K hard working miles on it and it still runs fine.
Not ideal as cold oil off the bottom of the pan could lead to false results... UO sampling should be done after the engine has come up to operating temps (about 20 min of driving) and you do not want the first or last oil out of the pan. You would want to grab it mid stream after a couple of quarts or so has already dumped. Gotta be pretty quick with the 6.7L though...
Good point. I guess I'll send the sample in after I do my first oil change sometime next summer. I don't really have any confidence that the dealer would get a good sample.
I just changed my oil today filled back up with T6 5-40w for the winter. For those of you that service your own truck and have four wheel drive I found two grease fittings when looking the front end over. They are located on the front axle u joints right under the ball joints. just a heads up for service.
I have the cable style dip stick, I cant tell the level to save my life. It seems that im over the FULL mark but the cable soaks up oil so I dont know what to do?
As for filling oil filters. It is certainly a "can't hurt nothing" action and could have some very faint benefits.
I'm old enough and wrenched on cars long enough ago to recall Buick V6 and V8 and the big cube Mopars having regular issues of no oil pressure after an oil change if you didn't fill oil filter. Some of the practice of filling filters dates to those days.
I'm talking about engines into the 80's.
Modern engines have far better tolerance control on the engine and on the components so that shouldn't be an issue.
You could not pre-fill oil filters on 6.0 and 6.4 p'strokes since the drain of oil filter housing was open if cap was unscrewed. There may be no shortage of other issues but failures due to no oil pressure at start are never mentioned.
I have a digital oil pressure gauge on my LS1 in my sandrail and it takes 5-10 secs for the pressure to read after an oil change. And that is with the little stock filter. I can imagine it takes 20-25 secs to fill that big of a filter.
On my 7.3L, I always filled the filter before installing it. I also always punched a hole in the bottom of the filter, much less mess.
I have changed the oil a few times now. I find it convenient to fill the filter up with a quart of oil first. That leaves 3 gallons left to fill from the fill tube atop of this beast's engine. Its just more convenient for me aside from the fact that the lube oil system on the truck remains nearly full when you start the engine up the first time. I am not sure that you have to fill the filter up first, but it sure doesnt hurt things...
Thanks for the video Epic. I did my first oil change last night, what a breeze. I went with the 10W30 oil on the advice of my Ford mechanic.
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