6.7L Power Stroke Engine and DrivetrainDiscussion of the 6.7L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 2011-Up Super Duty trucks. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.7L Power Stroke engine.
I done a search and found the instructions to do the high idle hookup, my question is do you have to use a resistor or can it be like the 6.0 and just connect the wires? This will be on my new '13 F250 XLT 6.7. Any help.
__________________ 05 F250 SD XLT Reg cab 4x4 Arizona Beige 6.0L PSD, AT, Advanced Security Group, ESOF, Fog Lights, Stabilizer Package, Tow Command System, Upfitter Switches, Aluminum Wheels, Cab Steps & Super Liner bedliner,Fumoto Valve, Air Lift Air Springs & Smart Air. Traded
2013 F250 SD XLT Reg Cab 4x4 Pale Adobe 6.7L PSD, 3.31Elock, AT, Tow Command, Upfitter Switches, Rear Camera, Aluminum Service Body,
Resistor needed as per Ford upfitter SEIC instructions, see page 13-14 of the SEIC/PTO install book
__________________
~Wolf
'12 F550 Tux Black Lariat Supercab 186" WB , 4x4 6.7, 19.5GVW
13k lb hooklift, Cramaro auto tarp, Insta-chain automatic tire chains, Boss 9' SD plow, Atomic led cab marker/strobe
Custom~ fabbed rear bumper, tarp gantry, rear warning led setup, SEIC & rear strobe control panel (in the drivers side powerpoint trim)
And more to come
'99 F350 XLT CC LB 4x4 dually 7.3, Dents build character 408,000ish miles on the clock (2nd motor)
'93 Exploder Sport, 5.0 swap, 4r70w+Baumann TCS, Atlas 2 T-case 3.8:1 twin stick, Narrowed D44 '79 f150 solid axle swap, bunch o other junk...
'69 Ford rust bucket, err Bronco, "resto"/mods in the planning stages
__________________
~Wolf
'12 F550 Tux Black Lariat Supercab 186" WB , 4x4 6.7, 19.5GVW
13k lb hooklift, Cramaro auto tarp, Insta-chain automatic tire chains, Boss 9' SD plow, Atomic led cab marker/strobe
Custom~ fabbed rear bumper, tarp gantry, rear warning led setup, SEIC & rear strobe control panel (in the drivers side powerpoint trim)
And more to come
'99 F350 XLT CC LB 4x4 dually 7.3, Dents build character 408,000ish miles on the clock (2nd motor)
'93 Exploder Sport, 5.0 swap, 4r70w+Baumann TCS, Atlas 2 T-case 3.8:1 twin stick, Narrowed D44 '79 f150 solid axle swap, bunch o other junk...
'69 Ford rust bucket, err Bronco, "resto"/mods in the planning stages
Why do you "have" to use a resistor? Is something going to burn up if you don't? I'm not buying that one. My 2006 didn't have a resistor and worked just fine for 7 years.
__________________
2012 F350 4X4 Dually, Crew Cab, Ultimate Lariat Package, Oxford White, Black Leather towing a 2006 LE3905 Weekend Warrior
2002 F250 CC, 4X4 - Sold
2004 F350 CC, FX4, loaded - Sold
2006 F350 CC, DRW, FX4 - Sold
The resistor value dictates the high idle speed. Different values will give you different RPMs. It's possible to put in a potentiometer and have it variable.
I don't know what no resister would do, but the lower the resistance, the higher the idle speed. According to the chart, 680 ohms would be 3,000 RPM
I think the newer SEIC looks for the resistance (voltage drop) before it will activate.
And here is where I put my SEIC knob, center off switch (stationary-off-live) and on/off light.
ETA: Switch, button and 4 leds on the left are for the rear warning light controls
__________________
~Wolf
'12 F550 Tux Black Lariat Supercab 186" WB , 4x4 6.7, 19.5GVW
13k lb hooklift, Cramaro auto tarp, Insta-chain automatic tire chains, Boss 9' SD plow, Atomic led cab marker/strobe
Custom~ fabbed rear bumper, tarp gantry, rear warning led setup, SEIC & rear strobe control panel (in the drivers side powerpoint trim)
And more to come
'99 F350 XLT CC LB 4x4 dually 7.3, Dents build character 408,000ish miles on the clock (2nd motor)
'93 Exploder Sport, 5.0 swap, 4r70w+Baumann TCS, Atlas 2 T-case 3.8:1 twin stick, Narrowed D44 '79 f150 solid axle swap, bunch o other junk...
'69 Ford rust bucket, err Bronco, "resto"/mods in the planning stages
I think the newer SEIC looks for the resistance (voltage drop) before it will activate.
And here is where I put my SEIC knob, center off switch (stationary-off-live) and on/off light.
ETA: Switch, button and 4 leds on the left are for the rear warning light controls
That looks sharp, is that 12v power point a factory point on the '12? In my '11 that is a useless cubbyhole that holds nothing when you step on the gas. I put hidden switches in there for my hide-away strobes, complete with a dimmer switch that I never use and a pattern select button that I never use(I like the options and it was just as easy to do the hookups now rather than later). All of my aux switches are used up for various warning lights hence the reason i built a control box to be independent from everything else.
The resistor value dictates the high idle speed. Different values will give you different RPMs. It's possible to put in a potentiometer and have it variable.
I don't know what no resister would do, but the lower the resistance, the higher the idle speed. According to the chart, 680 ohms would be 3,000 RPM
It just will not work with no resistor. To make the potentiometer work you will need a 50K ohm potentiomenter and a 680 ohm resistor to make the values work for the full RPM range.
I have been reviewing a few posts about the high idle mod and i think I have a general understanding of it. But, i do have one question regarding using the high idle mod with the remote start. Most installations listed on here use one of the upfitter switches for power. . But since the up fitter switches dont get power until the key is turned on, the high idle cannot be set during a remote start. But if one were to get power from a constant 12v source, rather than the up fitter switch, would it be possible to remote start the truck with the seic on? Assuming the park brake was set
I am a huge fan of the cleanliness and simplicity of Wolf's install shown above. Could you share any part numbers for the switches and light you installed?
Thanks
Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF700T using AutoGuide.Com Free App
__________________
Current Truck:
'12 F250 6.7 Lariat, S/C SB 4wd,
Dark Blue Pearl with Sterling Grey accent
3.55 rear, FX4 Package, Upfitter Switches
Weatherguard Toolbox, cab rack, 8-strobe Whelen miniedge, Husky mudflaps.
Still waiting on the ventvisors, bugshield, and a few other ideas.
Former:
'03 F350 6.0L
300,000+ miles stock.Original turbo, head gaskets, EGR valve/cooler and oil cooler.
Supposedly the "first of the worst" 6.0's
Great Truck - Never let me down.
I done a search and found the instructions to do the high idle hookup, my question is do you have to use a resistor or can it be like the 6.0 and just connect the wires? This will be on my new '13 F250 XLT 6.7. Any help.
Can I use the upfitter #3 that is a 10 amp circuit or do I need to use #4 that is a 15 amp circuit? Just like to save the heavier circuits for future use.
Thanks
Carl
__________________ 05 F250 SD XLT Reg cab 4x4 Arizona Beige 6.0L PSD, AT, Advanced Security Group, ESOF, Fog Lights, Stabilizer Package, Tow Command System, Upfitter Switches, Aluminum Wheels, Cab Steps & Super Liner bedliner,Fumoto Valve, Air Lift Air Springs & Smart Air. Traded
2013 F250 SD XLT Reg Cab 4x4 Pale Adobe 6.7L PSD, 3.31Elock, AT, Tow Command, Upfitter Switches, Rear Camera, Aluminum Service Body,
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
05 F250 SD XLT Reg cab 4x4 Arizona Beige 6.0L PSD, AT, Advanced Security Group, ESOF, Fog Lights, Stabilizer Package, Tow Command System, Upfitter Switches, Aluminum Wheels, Cab Steps & Super Liner bedliner,Fumoto Valve, Air Lift Air Springs & Smart Air. Traded
408,000ish miles on the clock (2nd motor)
Linear Mode
