5w/40 Oil - Amsoil, Rotella, Mobil 1, Motorcraft - Page 12 - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
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6.7L Upgrades and Aftermarket - Engine Upgrading or adding OEM or aftermarket equipment to your 2011-Up Super Duty truck with 6.7L Power Stroke diesel engine. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.7L Power Stroke engine.

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Old 03-24-2011, 09:01 PM   #166 (permalink)
STG
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I'm still waiting to see just one Blackstone analysis that shows better results with less shearing for Amsoil 5w-40 diesel oil vs. any other 5w-40 diesel oil in a 6.0 Powerstroke (or a 6.4 or a 6.7). Take your pick: Rotella T6. Motorcraft 5w-40 Diesel Oil, Mobil 1 for Turbo Diesel Trucks, Sheaffer's 9000, Delvac 1. Show me an oil analysis!
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Old 03-24-2011, 09:18 PM   #167 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jasonmt View Post
Do you sell Amway as well?
Selling Amsolway is only half the equation.. Do people actually buy Ansoilway from IDABUSE?
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Oxford White, Medium Flint 40/20/40 Vinyl, Prefered Equip. Pkg. 600A , 3.73, Limited Slip, XL Decor Pkg., Jeweled Headlamps, Chrome Rear Step Bumper, 9600# GVWR Pkg., Engine Block Heater, Sliding Rear Window, Speed Control / Tilt Wheel, Camper Pkg., FX4 Pkg., Air Conditioning, Forged Aluminum Wheels-17", Tow Command, Telescoping TT Mirrors. Using this vehicle to produce an ambulance voids Ford warranty. Added: Ford factory upfitter switches, Go Industries Rancher Grill Guard (hammered powdercoat), Hella 4000 Rallye lighting (two Euro Beams), SnugTop Super Sport camper shell, Jotto Desk & Escort Redline Radar/Lidar Detector.
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Old 03-25-2011, 07:21 PM   #168 (permalink)
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Selling Amsolway is only half the equation.. Do people actually buy Ansoilway from IDABUSE?

with his people skills and force opinions down your throat that are like I have... I doubt he sells much. I know I wouldn't be good at it.
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Old 03-26-2011, 11:21 PM   #169 (permalink)
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with his people skills and force opinions down your throat that are like I have... I doubt he sells much. I know I wouldn't be good at it.

some can be thrown off a horse, some get scared and go home never to ride again.
Some get back on the horse and ride they dont look back.

forced opinon? NO, you just dont want to be educated yet. your problem not mine...

The rage to switch to premium and synthetic lubricants as a silver bullet for every problem is winding down. We are now more aware of the true strength of these lubricants and their appropriate application. They can indeed solve a plethora of problems, but not all problems. Precision lubrication means correctly matching these lubricants to the applications to which they are best applied.

Buying lubricants from the lowest bidder is rarely a recipe for achieving machine reliability at the lowest possible cost. It’s time to stop pretending to save money by buying cheap, commodity-grade lubricants to save a quick buck at the expense of tomorrow’s need for reliability. Through greater awareness and education, large user organizations are finally getting the message.


If I am giving bad info please step in and update us with proper information.
making Personal mud slings makes you what?

like pre school kids, trying to be the most popular
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AMSOIL ATF in the transmission, AMSOIL gear oil in the diff.
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Old 03-29-2011, 08:51 PM   #170 (permalink)
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Amsoil / Amway, whats the difference ? (Just kidding) I run Shell Rotella T6 and change it every 3500 to 5000 miles. Engine should be good for a very, very long time !!!

( 2011 F350 CCSWB King Ranch 6.7 )
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Old 04-18-2011, 10:56 AM   #171 (permalink)
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Shell Rotella Triple - 15/40 - Walmart - and just keep my receipts for any future warranty concerns. Only Motorcraft filters. Someone mentioned a specific mileage based oil change but the 2011s actually refer to your oil life sensors...I change every 7500 based upon my usage but everyone is different.
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Old 04-24-2011, 11:08 AM   #172 (permalink)
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Is Amsoil a great oil, IMO yes. I've used them for years in certain applications and still do, lots of great products there, but it is an expensive boutique oil that can leave your warranty compromised if you have some form of engine failure with an Amsoil product in the crankcase that does not "meet or exceed". In house testing or "recommended" is not good enough for Ford, and I sure don't want to be the guy battling Ford's laywers over wording. Doesn't matter if we know the failure is completely unrelated to the choice of lube, who wants to take on that project. Doesn't meet/exceed, purposely running longer than recommended OCI to counter boutique oil costs, not for me.

The cheapest, crappiest API-approved cj-4 mineral lube would leave you under warranty, and the most expensive, and arguably one of if not the best cj-4 lube available, will leave you up a creek. Doesn't make any sense.

Find a decent cj-4, Doesn't matter if Esso, Penzoil, Quaker State, whatever, use a descent filter (Ford, Donaldson, Wix) and dump the crankcase regularly. There are PS's here from first gen and newer with rediculous km's, no special oils, just regular changes and decent filters. Also with the severe dust conditions here, cyl wash/fue dilution and shear are nothing compared to the dust particulate and silica accumulation, 5,000km intervals, maybe 6,000km's on occasion, are the target, and it works. That's here anyway, and my $0.02.
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Last edited by hoseclamp; 04-25-2011 at 11:51 AM.
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Old 04-25-2011, 03:47 AM   #173 (permalink)
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Amsoil / Amway, whats the difference ? (Just kidding) I run Shell Rotella T6 and change it every 3500 to 5000 miles. Engine should be good for a very, very long time !!!

( 2011 F350 CCSWB King Ranch 6.7 )
A very good point you make. I used to be an Amsoil dealer - learned a very costly, hard lesson. Long story short - keep with what is recommended from the ownwrs' manual -you won't go wrong.

Butch Cassidy1
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Old 04-25-2011, 12:26 PM   #174 (permalink)
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I have been using Valvoline's Premium Blue Engine 15/40 oil and wix filters.
Lots of good oil out there. My truck is a 1994 and has 330,000 mile and still runs strong. So what ever the oil used in the past must have worked fine.
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Old 04-30-2011, 12:10 PM   #175 (permalink)
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okay I finished reading this thread. what do I win? will i by amsiol? no. will i by what is on sale and change my oil when i want? yes
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Old 05-01-2011, 10:43 AM   #176 (permalink)
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I read the whole post, there are some very good arguments here, along with some that are just arguments. I work in a powerplant in the predictive maintenance group we do vibration analysis, oil sampling,etc. Our oil analysis is contracted out. But we do read the reports. In many applications ( especially cold lubing with their lower viscosities), synthetic oil is better, but not every applications. And certainly cost is a consideration. Oxidation of the oil is a major problem,synthetics resist this better. The viscosity index ( VI is the ability of the base oil to resist viscosity change with heat) of synthetics is usually higher, meaning less viscosity improvers have ( the things that make your oil a multi-grade) to be added. Oil can "wear out", the oil molecules and viscosity improvers shear out, but your additive package surrender, long before the base oil itself. Some contaminants can be filtered out with a fine enough filter, but not always with the filters that are standard. Fuel dilution and soot seem to be standard problems with the new emision engines. If an owner wants to have extended drain intervals beyond factory recommended, then oil analysis is a must. Include TBN (Total Base number, how base/acidic the oil has become, often optional) results in addition to your wear metals, fuel,coolant,soot etc. You need to evaluate your needs and decide what is reasonable for you. The engine oil life indicators are as I understand it, are based on a program of run/idle/temperature, etc, and not really an absolute indication of oil condition, but a programmed guess based on certain parameters. I would suggest that you spend the $25-$40 and have your oil analyzed once a year or so. It will help you to trend oil life, spot problems, and may let you extend your drains. All said, I think the synthetics are superior, but when you look at the hundreds of thousands of mile diesels run on well maintained conventioal oils, are they economically justified? Only you can decide that if the costs are justified by fewer changes, less wear, less enviromental disposal issues etc. I have an '11 on order, and I'm arguing this with myself!!

Last edited by colstripguy; 05-01-2011 at 10:45 AM.
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Old 05-01-2011, 06:45 PM   #177 (permalink)
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I read the whole post, there are some very good arguments here, along with some that are just arguments. I work in a powerplant in the predictive maintenance group we do vibration analysis, oil sampling,etc. Our oil analysis is contracted out. But we do read the reports. In many applications ( especially cold lubing with their lower viscosities), synthetic oil is better, but not every applications. And certainly cost is a consideration. Oxidation of the oil is a major problem,synthetics resist this better. The viscosity index ( VI is the ability of the base oil to resist viscosity change with heat) of synthetics is usually higher, meaning less viscosity improvers have ( the things that make your oil a multi-grade) to be added. Oil can "wear out", the oil molecules and viscosity improvers shear out, but your additive package surrender, long before the base oil itself. Some contaminants can be filtered out with a fine enough filter, but not always with the filters that are standard. Fuel dilution and soot seem to be standard problems with the new emision engines. If an owner wants to have extended drain intervals beyond factory recommended, then oil analysis is a must. Include TBN (Total Base number, how base/acidic the oil has become, often optional) results in addition to your wear metals, fuel,coolant,soot etc. You need to evaluate your needs and decide what is reasonable for you. The engine oil life indicators are as I understand it, are based on a program of run/idle/temperature, etc, and not really an absolute indication of oil condition, but a programmed guess based on certain parameters. I would suggest that you spend the $25-$40 and have your oil analyzed once a year or so. It will help you to trend oil life, spot problems, and may let you extend your drains. All said, I think the synthetics are superior, but when you look at the hundreds of thousands of mile diesels run on well maintained conventioal oils, are they economically justified? Only you can decide that if the costs are justified by fewer changes, less wear, less enviromental disposal issues etc. I have an '11 on order, and I'm arguing this with myself!!
Excellent info! I have been studying the machine industry for some time, I plan on taking the NORIA course soon when it comes to my town.
I have been collecting data and purchasing equiptment, such as a filter cart, something I find very valuable.
Your line of work helps one understand how to make maintence as efficient as possible wich also saves $$$ for the bottom line.

Oil analysis for synthetic oils is very necessary and understanding oxidation and nitration levels as well as TBN readings.
With this DATA one can safely extend oil drains and save much cash.
With $5 a gallon coming, any savings will help get you farther down the road.
Thanks for your post!

Javier
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C-6 with GearVendors overdrive 3.55 ring gear
Synthetic SAE 10W-30/SAE 30 Heavy-Duty Motor Oil,
Evans NPG coolant.
AMSOIL ATF in the transmission, AMSOIL gear oil in the diff.
20MPG city 25/28 hwy
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Old 05-02-2011, 08:13 PM   #178 (permalink)
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just did mine tonite change oil meesage came on 7100 miles went mobil 1 5/40 syn motorcraft filter wow expensive 8 bucks x13 qts 21 dollar motorcraft filter= 125 dollars anyone know what the ford dealer charges not cryin i have no regrets with this truck so far terry
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Old 05-07-2011, 01:34 PM   #179 (permalink)
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I got a coupon for $139, regular $199 for the oil change at my local Ford Dealer... (Although they did send a Free Oil Change Coupon a different way - which I am getting ready to do)
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Old 05-07-2011, 05:53 PM   #180 (permalink)
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I have had two different dealers change my oil. Dealer where I bought the truck was $109 with oil filter (Motocraft) and the dealer a little closer to the house charged $129 for the same service except he put in 2 extra quarts.
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