Block Heater Bumper Plug Upgrade
Thought the OEM Block Heater Plug looked pretty Cheezy on a $62k truck. I purchased one of these for my battery charger outlet for my Cobalt boat. So I decided to try and install one for the Block Heater on my new KR. Takes less than 30 minutes to install and bought the Plug on Amazon.com and was about $18. It is made by Marinco and they are designed for wet conditions so should work well and last for years. Took some photos of install. Easy Peasy, not so Cheezy!
Just pull the existing block heater wire through the hole in bumper, you will need to undo a few mounting clips to allow enough slack, Then cut the old plug end off the wire and strip the 3 wires so about 3/8" copper wire is exposed. Green (ground), Black, and White wires correspond to same colors screws on the Marinco receptacle.
The rubber boot slides over to seal receptacle, then tighten with supplied lock-ring on inside of bumper. I used the supplied screws by drilling 7/64 holes for added security and strength.
Here ya go, auto unplug. EcoVantage Catalog: Auto Eject WP
But I think for the price I'll keep the extension cord hanging over the side mirror to keep from forgetting to unplug it...
I think I used a 1-7/8 (one and 7/8 inch) hole saw to cut out bumper hole, I located it low in case I want to put one above it either for a battery charger or a female outlet for a 120v inverter.
I used both the factory lock-ring and drilled for the 3 mounting screws and this is rock solid. I believe an extension cord will easily pop out should you forget to unplug as long as extension cord has a stop or has been tied down.
If you wanted add a Red 120v warning light on the A pillar when plugged in, just add $10 and 15 minutes.
Not being picky, but did you paint the bare edges of the freshly drilled paint. Salt will do wonders, and I'll bet in a year or two, cancer will set in behind the paint. Could you have integrated it into the grille somewhere? I'm thinking about mounting mine behind the license plate and making the plate flip down. Out of sight.
Yeah, was thinking the same thing. Will paint the bare edges with Clear fingernail polish. Also picked up a 120V red LED pilot lamp, will test it when plugged in to be a cord reminder. Want to place on the A pillar at eye level.
Zinc galvanizing primer or chemical rust neutralizer will work a lot better than a paint- or lacquer-based primer.
In the electrical trade, this connecter is called an "inlet". (counterpart of "outlet") There is a wide variety of inlets available and you might be able to save some money shopping at electrical suppliers vs. the RV & boat world.
I thought $16.99 including shipping to my front door was pretty reasonable. (Amazon.com) I've used Clear fingernail polish on a number of things for rust protection with good results. Easy to use as you just paint it on with the cap brush.
It would be nice if Ford did something tasteful and put the plug behind the F250 emblem, making it on a hinge and work as a door. That would be a real "Sneaky Pete" type thing that would have a real WOW factor.
Filler caps were moved from the rear to the side to reduce the risk of spilling & igniting the entire fuel load during a rear-end collision. My nostalgia doesn't extend to two vehicles (and their occupants) burning to the ground after a relatively minor crash.
Under the contemporary FMVSS, spilling more than one liter of fuel is one of the ways to fail a crash test.
Holy crap, we were talking about hiding the block heater plug behind the Ford oval. I analogized it to the old gas cap/tail light and you had to come up with THAT?
I've seen a write-up where the plug was installed in the wall of the fog light. It's not so obvious, but the same or similar water tight plug was used.
I'd considered Option B but my stock cable has a plastic clip that attaches to the tow hook, so I'm fine with that.
I've seen a write-up where the plug was installed in the wall of the fog light. It's not so obvious, but the same or similar water tight plug was used.
I'd considered Option B but my stock cable has a plastic clip that attaches to the tow hook, so I'm fine with that.
Eric, mounting on the rear is a very good idea, but for a reason that you might not think of.
In park, the transmission does not circulate any oil, so letting a rig warm up does the transmission oil no good. The toughest (highest pressure) function of an auto transmission is reverse. If you back into the space where you plug in, you start put going forward, not in reverse. this does not matter if it isn'the very cold very often and for months on end, but if you live in minus 40 country (both F and C degrees are -40), you will find that a lot of transmissions rap out at only 100k, and most of them have torn oUT reverse.
On a related note, having just acquired (picking it up later today) a "new-to-me" 2015, F-350, I am assuming that although the engine has the block heater built in, I will have to purchase the necessary heater cord from Ford? (this was the case for my 2006 F-250).
BC3Z-6A051-A is the block heater element if you do not already have it installed and BC3Z-6B018-H is the power cable. Check for your power cable--mine was tucked up pretty far behind the bumper and so I bought one that is now a spare. :winking:
I really liked the solution that was posted to this page. However, I have a Ranch Hand bumper on the front. Nothing to really drill thru because I didn't want to go through the diamond plate. So I came up with this solution. I ordered a light rack mount that would hold the receptacle. I wasn't able to use the supply rubber mounts so I took some tool box drawer liner in between the clamps. It worked great and is very secure. Additionally I didn't want to cut the OEM cord so I butchered a new extension cord and made the pigtail. I plan on getting one of those extension cord protectors to sandwich the pigtail and OEM cord from the weather. Here are some pictures. (Sorry the pictures are upside down. They are ok on my computer)
I really liked the solution that was posted to this page. However, I have a Ranch Hand bumper on the front. Nothing to really drill thru because I didn't want to go through the diamond plate. So I came up with this solution. I ordered a light rack mount that would hold the receptacle. I wasn't able to use the supply rubber mounts so I took some tool box drawer liner in between the clamps. It worked great and is very secure. Additionally I didn't want to cut the OEM cord so I butchered a new extension cord and made the pigtail. I plan on getting one of those extension cord protectors to sandwich the pigtail and OEM cord from the weather. Here are some pictures. (Sorry the pictures are upside down. They are ok on my computer)
Both very nice re-inventions of the Marinco Mod. :thumbsup:
Had one on my truck since about 2004. (See the Marinco heater plug-in link in my signature).
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