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'11-Up Upgrades and Aftermarket Upgrading or adding OEM or aftermarket equipment to your 2011-Up Super Duty.

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Old 01-10-2013, 06:50 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Door Speakers

I'm installing sound deadening/heat blocking insulation next week in ceiling and doors. Normally, no matter how expensive your vehicle, the factory installs the cheapest speakers available. If that's the case with our '12 K/Ranch F350's, I'll swap them out but need to order now. Has anyone had the door panel off and can tell me anything about size and quality?
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Old 01-10-2013, 07:05 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I have no complaints about the factory sound from my truck. Then again I have 2 deployments to the middle east under my belt and say "huh?" a lot more now a days.
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Old 01-10-2013, 07:22 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I know what you mean; retired army 20 years, ex-special forces, viet nam, Huey pilot for 6 years, I've also lost some hearing. That's why I want the best sounding speakers available. While I have the door panels pulled, I may as well upgrade. Still need info on size and speaker material quality.
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Old 01-11-2013, 06:32 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I know what you mean; retired army 20 years, ex-special forces, viet nam, Huey pilot for 6 years, I've also lost some hearing. That's why I want the best sounding speakers available. While I have the door panels pulled, I may as well upgrade. Still need info on size and speaker material quality.
I am not sure on size. Crutchfield.com typically has a fit calculator that will tell you what size you need. I can tell you that my wifes truck has polk audio speakers that sound horrible compared to a truck with stock speakers. I imagine that the speakers that are in there are supposed to be driven by an amp and are currently being powered by just the stock head unit. We bought the truck with those speakers in it. I am probably going to go to a junk yard and buying OEM speakers to put back in. Radio's for me are mostly background noise as it is. I would rather listen to the static on my CB radio, lol.
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Old 01-13-2013, 12:30 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I agree the sound/volume in these leave a lot to be desired (esp compared to my diamond audio set up in my 04) but as mentioned not sure if you'll gain much running on factory amp. Could actually sound worse since most quality aftermarket speakers are designed to be ran with higher watt amps.


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Old 01-14-2013, 10:35 AM   #6 (permalink)
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The 2011-2012 premium sound front door and rear quarter panel speakers are 5"x7"/6"x8 in size, factory are very low wattage and the big problem is the low output factory amplifier, I think you will find that if you get aftermarket speakers without integrating a new aftermarket amp to pump out the power the aftermarket speakers need, the sound quality will be a little better, but certainly quieter depending on the wattage rating of the new aftermarket speaker, also keep in mind these are kind of components with the tweeters in rear doors running from the rear quarter panel speaker in parallel. Not worth it to just change the speakers in my opinion, as you will not be doing it right and defeting the purpose of your upgrade. The correct way would be to add an aftermarket amplifier, run new wiring to all speaker locations, get aftermarket component speakers, upgrade subwoofer enclosure, amp and sub, this all gets very expensive. There is no plug and play integration kit harness for the 2011-up at this time. You'd almost be better off trading it in for the 2013 with sony sound, and getting a more powerful, overall better quality system with more speaker locations, improved amplifiers, and a nicer, bigger screen navigation system. I honestly believe they made this change for the 2013 because of all the disapointment with the 11-12 factory so called premium system. Even the previous audiophile systems were better than whats in the 2011-12.

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Old 01-14-2013, 12:43 PM   #7 (permalink)
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JMO but if it is the same premium Sony sound system that is in the 2011 F150 it is not that great either. That was my #1 disappointment with my F150.
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Old 01-14-2013, 01:40 PM   #8 (permalink)
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IMO, replacing the truck might be a bit overkill for a stereo.......

If the stereo is your only issue with the truck, write a check for 2k-3k and a decent installer will knock you socks off with what he installs.

I haven't heard the Sony "Premium" system but I would bet 1k carefully spent in system would beat it hands down too. I know Sony isn't exactly respected in the aftermarket audio circles, I doubt having Ford's accountants spec out the components will help that either.
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Old 01-18-2013, 01:35 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clev View Post
I'm installing sound deadening/heat blocking insulation next week in ceiling and doors. Normally, no matter how expensive your vehicle, the factory installs the cheapest speakers available. If that's the case with our '12 K/Ranch F350's, I'll swap them out but need to order now. Has anyone had the door panel off and can tell me anything about size and quality?
I just installed a set of J&L 5x7's in the door and a Pioneer tweet in the panel above the door. The rear speakers, at least in the 2012, is in the panel behind the seats with a twetter in the door. The JL's are great and I got them at Crutchfields and the tweets from Amazon. Removing the door panels is no big deal. You can replace the both front doors in about 30 minutes with the wire harnesses Crutchfield sends with the speakers. I would try those upgrades first before you do anything else. They may be enough bass for you. If you need more bass, you have several options.

For what its worth, I had the Sony system in my F150 and I thought the bass was a little boomy for me. By boomy I mean that it tended to distort the human speaking voice which usually means the crossover for the bass speaker is set way too high. In fact, I had to decrease the bass setting when I listened to talk radio because it almost hurt my ears after a few hours. A good bass system will cross over at about 150 to 200 Hz and leave the rest of the sound spectrum to the other speakers. Most old farts, and you guys who shoot people for a living, will have a high frequency hearing loss so you will need to augment that set of frequencies, mostly above 7000 Hz. A good tweet will do that if it has enough spl (anything above 95spl). Of course doing all those manipulations with the sound in your truck will probably hurt the ears of your wife, girlfriend or anyone with good hearing since they will be bothered by the excessive high frequencies of the system. My wife is forgiving, she knows that I can't hear ****.
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Old 02-02-2013, 05:32 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Thanks for the replies; I'm trying to catch up on my posts. Sorry for the late reply, but on Sunday the 20th, while installing cab lights, I slipped off my step ladder and smacked the back of my head on the concrete. I couldn't get up by myself for 3 days, and was dizzy and disoriented for the next week and a half. I finally started feeling better a couple of days ago and finished mounting the lights; that's it. I've ordered, and received 4 replacement speakers: Pioneer 6 x 8, 4-way, 90 dB sensitivity, 30- 25 k hz; pretty good speakers, but not installed yet. I'm hoping to finish this job tomorrow with lights, insulation, and speakers; or I should say, my wife is going to finish it, I'm management, LOL. I'll report back when finished.
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Old 02-03-2013, 08:02 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Sub and Radio

Wow dude, Smacking your grape on the cement is NOT a good idea. Hope you get better. Don't let the wife up on the ladder. I'm waiting for some nice weather to put my subwoofer in. Got all of my parts, wires, speakers and now all I need is to remove the rear seat and the factory sub on the rear wall. According to SoundOffAudio I need to keep my factory sub amp in order for the OEM nav/radio to work. So I have to integrate the amp into the system using the supplied adaptor all its is going to do is provide the high level signal to my 300 watt amp that runs my two 8" woofers in my box.

At the same time and the same wires, I am hooking up the power to my Kenwood TS 480 Amateur radio and the necessary wiring for the antenna. I hope I don't get any interference with running the power supplies off of the same power source. But I don't have enough room on my battery to run two 6ga wires and through the firewall.

If this doesn't work I'm going to scrap all the OEM nav/radio and put an Alpine system in the dash with a five channel amp. The more I change the sound the less I appreciate the quality of the Ford radio. My wife got a new Ford Explorer last week for her retirement and it has a very excellent sound system in it. For some reason the Super Duty's sound system really sucks. I think it has a lot to do with speaker placement, particularly in the rear cabin. The main speakers are behind the rear seats and not in the door. The speaker in the door is a tweeter that doesn't work all that great. To get better highs, that tend to get lost in the seats and carpet, you will need to remove that rear door tweeter and place a good high SPL tweet there. I found a pair of Pyle's on Amazon I'm going to put in there. I'm not sure that the will fit, but I'm going to try.
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Old 02-03-2013, 10:21 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Door Speakers

Mojoron I would definietly be interested in that supplies adapter. Can you get it separately from the kit? Thinking o upgrading my sub but don't want to splice the factory wiring if I don't have too. I do know there's several people though you have changed out the factory sub and haven't read anything on factory nav not working though.

edit: I see you said sub amp, so maybe they're all leaving that in place.



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Old 02-03-2013, 04:54 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Wow dude, Smacking your grape on the cement is NOT a good idea. Hope you get better. Don't let the wife up on the ladder. I'm waiting for some nice weather to put my subwoofer in. Got all of my parts, wires, speakers and now all I need is to remove the rear seat and the factory sub on the rear wall. According to SoundOffAudio I need to keep my factory sub amp in order for the OEM nav/radio to work. So I have to integrate the amp into the system using the supplied adaptor all its is going to do is provide the high level signal to my 300 watt amp that runs my two 8" woofers in my box.

At the same time and the same wires, I am hooking up the power to my Kenwood TS 480 Amateur radio and the necessary wiring for the antenna. I hope I don't get any interference with running the power supplies off of the same power source. But I don't have enough room on my battery to run two 6ga wires and through the firewall.

If this doesn't work I'm going to scrap all the OEM nav/radio and put an Alpine system in the dash with a five channel amp. The more I change the sound the less I appreciate the quality of the Ford radio. My wife got a new Ford Explorer last week for her retirement and it has a very excellent sound system in it. For some reason the Super Duty's sound system really sucks. I think it has a lot to do with speaker placement, particularly in the rear cabin. The main speakers are behind the rear seats and not in the door. The speaker in the door is a tweeter that doesn't work all that great. To get better highs, that tend to get lost in the seats and carpet, you will need to remove that rear door tweeter and place a good high SPL tweet there. I found a pair of Pyle's on Amazon I'm going to put in there. I'm not sure that the will fit, but I'm going to try.
Hi Mojo; thanks for the concern. I slipped off of the 2nd step up and fell straight back to the concrete smacking the back of my head. It's taken 2 weeks, and I still get dizzy if I'm on my feet too long or tilt my head too quickly. But there was no fracture or brain damage. My wife said that I had to have a brain, in order to damage one, LOL. I got the rear speakers replaced today and had to modify the transistor/resistor leads to the tweeter in the door. Like you, I'm interested in replacing it; let me know if the Pyle's fit. And, are they good quality, good specs? Where are you putting your sub? Same place, direct replacement? I haven't checked the specs on the OEM, can a better one be bought?
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Old 02-04-2013, 07:25 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Get on the website www.soundoffaudio.com and buy it on there. You can call them up and get information from them on how to incorporate the adapter.
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Old 02-04-2013, 08:27 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Hi Mojo; thanks for the concern. I slipped off of the 2nd step up and fell straight back to the concrete smacking the back of my head. It's taken 2 weeks, and I still get dizzy if I'm on my feet too long or tilt my head too quickly. But there was no fracture or brain damage. My wife said that I had to have a brain, in order to damage one, LOL. I got the rear speakers replaced today and had to modify the transistor/resistor leads to the tweeter in the door. Like you, I'm interested in replacing it; let me know if the Pyle's fit. And, are they good quality, good specs? Where are you putting your sub? Same place, direct replacement? I haven't checked the specs on the OEM, can a better one be bought?
I wanted to get a quick note out before I went into detail. The sub I"m using is a direct fit behind the seat and it was made by SoundOffAudio. I bought everything from them. They gave me the wiring and all that for the amp. Since I ran 6g wire from the battery to the rear cab for my amateur radio, I placed a Streetwires power block x 2 that has 3 6g terminals and 4 12 g terminals. I am using two power blocks because in ham radio they tell you to run both the positive and negative terminals to the radio for better grounding and decreasing RF from the trucks electronics. Using the 6g wire I'm assured to be able to power the big amp and my radio which puts out 200watts of transmitter power and needs 30 amps to do it. The audio amp also needs 30 amps at full power, which I doubt I will ever use.

Before I ordered the sub I was unaware that I had an OEM subwoofer behind the rear seat. It is a POS to say the least. Has too much boom which tells me that the speaker is cheap and the amp doesn't put out a very clean signal. Unless you are going to remove your head unit, this is from Matt at SOFFaudio, you will have to incorporate the OEM amp into your system by taking the high level output from the amp and placing the high to low level signal adapter into the sub's amp. You will need to wire the adapter so that the load on the OEM amp is more than 4 ohms so that the amp doesn't overheat and distort. Matt can send you a wiring diagram, or I can if you need to see it. It sounds more confusing than it is, believe me. Since I can't get my tank in the garage I have to wait until I get some decent weather here in Arkansas. It has been raining or freezing for the whole month of January. I had a good day yesterday to work on the project(s) and got most of my amateur radio installation done but I didn't get started on the sub or my rear speakers. While I have off the face panels on the rear speakers I intend to loosen the rear seat and move it forward to cut away the wall covering under the rear window to make room for the sub and to remove the OEM sub/amp body. The darn seat is heavy and it is one piece and is hard to remove by myself. Once I get the sub in place I plan to put the sub amps in the tray under the seat. I already have my amateur radio in the passenger tray and I plan to put the other amps in the drivers tray with my M4 and two clips of ObamaMags I hope they all fit.
I'll send pics of the wiring when I get a chance.
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