Hey, my uncle has a 2000 F350 V10 with about 123K miles, trucks runs great but seems to burn about a quart every thousand miles. I just changed the oil about 2 weeks ago with a NAPA filter and Mobil 1 5W30. Just checked the oil this past weekend and it was a quart low. Just wondering if there is something that may be plugged or is this normal oil useage for the V10? Thanks for the help and appreciate everybodys input. Scotty
I think he just switched to synthetic about 20K miles ago. He says the truck has always used some oil, but not that much. I will bring it up and maybe we will try to switch back to dino oil.. Any other trucks that use oil and if there is any opinions on if synthetic is the culprit would be great. Scotty
When I tried Mobil-1 5W30 in my V10 it burned, evaporated, or dissapeared at twice the rate the dino 5W20 would. Now I only use Motorcraft or Castrol 5W20. I'll lose about a quart in 3000 miles. My owner's manual says 5W30, but Ford has recommended 5W20 for all the V-10's.
Try 5W20. Put 6 quarts in and see if that doesn't put you somewhere in the hash marks on the dipstick. It's not necessary to bring the level up to the top mark. Don't add any oil until the level drops to the bottom "add oil" mark on the distick and then add a quart. In my case it doesn't drop to the "add" mark again before I have to change oil anyway. Thus my "1 qt in 3000 miles" statemant above. YMMV
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'00 F250 CC SWB 4x2 XLT V-10 Auto 3.73LS Silver/Graphite
dads '02 V10 Burned the Mobil 1 also... Changed to Castrol and it didnt burn NEARLY as much. I have never been a fan of the Mobil 1 myself...had it in my '94 F-150 302ci. a few times, burned it like crazy... just my .02
When I switched to Mobil 1 fully synthetic 10W-30, it caused a lifter to seize up and that took out a pushrod and the camshaft in my old 460 powered truck. The truck had about 87k on it when I switched and the camshaft was shot in less than 1k afterwards. Called Mobil to see if they would replace the lifters, cam, and pushrods since the dealer mechanics determined that their oil caused it and Mobil did not reply. Thanks Mobil for a $2200 repair bill....learned my lesson to switch oils at low mileage and not get Mobil.
I've heard a lot of good things about the Shell Rotella 15/40 even in gas engines. I am thinking about using it next time in my diesel now since the miles are still low and hopefully that won't cause any adverse effects like the Mobil did in the old truck. I'm also considering switching all my small engines I have to Shell Rotella.
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<font color="blue">2005 National 2nd Place Winner in Agricultural Mechanics in Repairs and Maintenance for The National FFA Organization.</font>
Traded in: 1995 Ford F-250 XLT Super Cab Longbed 4x4, 460, auto, 3.55's., K&N filter, glasspack duals. Miss everything about this truck but the gas mileage....
Some days you're the dog.....Some days you're the hydrant.
Could you expand on your situation as I'm curious as to how the oil caused the failure? I understand just enough about oil to be dangerous, but since I have changed older/higher milage vehicles from dyno to syn in the past, I'm wondering what I should be watching for. Thanks in advance for your reply.
According to ford's nomenclature [and the owners manual] a quart every 800-1000 miles is normal. My 02 always burned a quart and a half between changes. V-10 trait. Not too worry.
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If you can read this thank a teacher...thank a soldier it"s in English.
Don't take this wrong, but there is no way Mobil 1 Synthetic caused you an engine failure by seizing something up. The mechanics telling you that are a bunch of idiots and would rather utilize the blame game to keep you off their butts.
Motor oil does three things.
1) Lubricate engine components
2) Clean engine by suspending contaminates until the oil reaches the filter
3) Cool by transferring heat.
Mobil 1 synthetic is probabally the best commercially oil available in the world. It is the factory fill for the Corvette, all Porsche's, Rolls Royce, ect.
It exceeds every spec by every manufacturer by far. I've torn down many engines im my time and ones that have utilized Synthetic have a mirror finish on the inside with no carbon or sludge build up.
Bret
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Federally Licensed Airframe & Powerplant Technician and Avionics Tech.
95 Ranger 3.0 4x4 95,000 mi w/junk auto hubs
68 Cadillac Fleetwood 472 67,000 mi
73 New Yorker 440 97,000 mi MINT
99 Polaris Victory V-twin 1507cc (GONE)
91 Ranger 2wd, 4cyl, 245,000mi RUSTED AWAY & SOLD
84 Bronco II XLT 2.8L eng. top end dead @ 90,000mi
81 Cutlass Supreme 231 V-6 Biggest POS ever made. Typical G.M. junk.
It might be using slightly more oil since the synthetic oil remains very thin at lower temperatures, unlike regular crude (sludge) base oils. You are far better off in the long run staying with the synthetic and having the better protection (instant oil pressure) at cold starts. THe dollar or two for a partial quart useage every 3000 miles is a deal for preventing wear on the motor.
Bret
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Federally Licensed Airframe & Powerplant Technician and Avionics Tech.
95 Ranger 3.0 4x4 95,000 mi w/junk auto hubs
68 Cadillac Fleetwood 472 67,000 mi
73 New Yorker 440 97,000 mi MINT
99 Polaris Victory V-twin 1507cc (GONE)
91 Ranger 2wd, 4cyl, 245,000mi RUSTED AWAY & SOLD
84 Bronco II XLT 2.8L eng. top end dead @ 90,000mi
81 Cutlass Supreme 231 V-6 Biggest POS ever made. Typical G.M. junk.
That would not be bad, but it burns about a quart every 1000 miles. That seems like too much. I think we will switch over to Motorcraft 5/20 and see if that makes a difference. Scotty
[ QUOTE ]
Don't take this wrong, but there is no way Mobil 1 Synthetic caused you an engine failure by seizing something up. The mechanics telling you that are a bunch of idiots and would rather utilize the blame game to keep you off their butts.
Motor oil does three things.
1) Lubricate engine components
2) Clean engine by suspending contaminates until the oil reaches the filter
3) Cool by transferring heat.
[/ QUOTE ]
Bret -
You make good points about the function of oil in an engine.
I have heard that changing to a fully synthetic oil in an older engine can be a bad thing as it tends to clean up/dislodge deposits within the engine, which can cause catastrophic failures due to oil passages getting plugged from the gunk that is dislodged. A friend of mine who used to own a plane told me that the FAA had issued guidance that fully synthetic oils were not to be used in older piston aircraft engines for that very reason (in response to a growing trend of engine failures not long after the introduction of synthetic oils). I noticed in your sig that you are a FAA power plant tech – have you seen this guidance?
While it may be debatable as to whether the root cause of the failure of the 460 is directly attributable to the synthetic oil, I think a case could be made that it most likely indirectly contributed to the failure.
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