First, I'm not quite sure what the amperage is on my alternator. It doesn't say on it. Due to the camper pack, trailer tow, or off-road, I'm under the impression it is a 115 amp. I checked at an auto parts store recently and they show nothing but 130 amp alternators for all F-250 SDs. My main elec. plug to the alternator is to three identical tabs and there is a single small wire off the loom that plugs into a seperate place on the alternator. Any idea what the amp is?
After this is determined I'm looking at a Sure Power isolator setup for a deep cycle battery hardmounted in the bed. Anyone used them? How's an isolator compared to a full blown two battery system?
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Mulepick:
...I'm looking at a Sure Power isolator setup for a deep cycle battery hardmounted in the bed. Anyone used them? How's an isolator compared to a full blown two battery system?
Thanks,
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
I don't know what the Sure Power isolator is but I've always just used a solenoid that you can buy at any camping supply store. It works pretty much like the solenoid on your starter. When the ignition is on, both batteries are in the circuit and both are being charged by the alternator. When the ignition is off, the two batteries are disconnected from one another so that the auxiliary battery can be used (for a camper for example) but the truck battery remains fully charged. These cost only a few dollars.
In fact, I'm considering installing one in my Super Duty. I have always installed the auxiliary battery under the hood in the location where the second battery would go for the diesel engine (I have a gasser.) This makes a clean installation. I use this extra battery to power an electric trolling motor. When I'm done fishing, I put the battery back in the truck and it's ready to go for the next trip.
steve
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(Delivered 10/24) '01 XLT F250 4X2 CC SWB V10 3:73 axle, auto trans, Island Blue/Silver, 40/20/40 seats, 265 AT tires, deluxe wheels, Pwr TT mirrors, privacy glass, 6-disc CD changer, chrome tube steps, CRL power slider rear window, Catch-All floor mats, Roll-n-Lock bed cover, Line-X spray in liner; 27 ft double-slide 5er.
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'01 XLT F250 4X2 CC SWB V10 3:73 axle, auto trans, Island Blue/Silver, 40/20/40 seats, 265 AT Firestones, deluxe wheels, Pwr TT mirrors, privacy glass, 6-disc CD changer, chrome tube steps, CRL power slider rear window, Catch-All floor mats, Roll-n-Lock A-series bed cover, PE PowerGate, Line-X spray in liner; 27 ft double-slide 5er.
[quote]Originally posted by stevieD:
[b] I don't know what the Sure Power isolator is but I've always just used a solenoid that you can buy at any camping supply store.
We're pretty much talking about the same thing if you're talking about the solenoid you buy at a camper store or even at Pep Boys. "Only a few dollars" goes up with the max amperage coming out of the alternator which is why I'm trying to nail down my max. The "up to 130 amp" model (which the fine print says really only accomodates 115 amps) goes from $49-59 depending on where you shop.
I have always installed the auxiliary battery under the hood in the location where the second battery would go for the diesel engine (I have a gasser.)
This is interesting. I can't picture in my head where I would have room for another batt under the hood but would definitely prefer it under there. I'll have to look at photos of some diesels to see.
Here's some pictures of my auxiliary battery installation. It sounds similar to what you're wanting to do. I use a constant duty solenoid like stevied recommended. It's simplier and you don't have the voltage loss associated with a battery isolator.
Added on edit: I initially had the second battery in the engine compartment where you guys are talking about. I had to take out the breather/filter for the gas tank vent. I fabricated a battery tray, but I had to use a fairly small battery so it would fit. I'd recommend putting it in the bed or, as I did, in a tool box. You can use a big battery that way, and it's easy to get to.
Also, take the factory alternator ratings with a grain of salt. They're probably lucky to put out 100 amps or so, and when they're hot they put out even less.
For 2000, the "camper pkg" was supposed to include a 130 amp alternator. I've not seen any indication on my truck as to whether or not it really does have this. Better to pay a "few more dollars" now for an upgrade sure to work rather than buy it after the under-rated one fails.
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by NoMo: For 2000, the "camper pkg" was supposed to include a 130 amp alternator. I've not seen any indication on my truck as to whether or not it really does have this. Better to pay a "few more dollars" now for an upgrade sure to work rather than buy it after the under-rated one fails.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
You see why I'm confused. The Ford brochure that contains all the specs and option group breakdowns is called 2000 Commercial Vehicles. It shows a 115 amp alt. associated with trlr tow pack, snow plow pack, and camper pack. No where is a 130 amp alt listed.
I installed the isolator. I attached it to the bottom of the plate that the air cleaner housing sits on. The main line from the batt. gets lengthened and sent to this box, a lead from the box goes back to the alternator, a line then goes to the aux batt. (in my case in the bed), and a small line goes to a ignition/on line. After testing, I've confirmed the proper charging, discharging, and voltages at each place.
I've read that the benefit to an isolator over a simple solenoid (which I believe came with my camper package) is that you don't get the immediate, strong drain from a weak aux batt. at start up which has the potential to start fires and cuts the life of the primary batt. in half. Like I say, I read this- I think it was in a brochure for isolators- and have no personal knowledge.
I mounted a fuse box in the bed and am currently running only a bed light under the lid off of it. Plan to run a line up forward and plant another fuse box up forward and plug the GPS, phone, and CB into it.
Happy to entertain questions if anyone needs help.
Mulepick has it right. The isolator is the better way to go. The voltage drop of the diodes is compensated for in the way you have to hook it up to your alternator. Different batteries should not be charged in parallel the way a simple solenoid will do it. I think Sure Power has an 800 number...you might as well let >them< tell you which size to use
Mulepick has it right. The isolator is the better way to go. The voltage drop of the diodes is compensated for in the way you have to hook it up to your alternator. Different batteries should not be charged in parallel the way a simple solenoid will do it. I think Sure Power has an 800 number...you might as well let >them< tell you which size to use
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by NoMo: Any pics?<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Yeah, I'll be happy to put some pictures on line. Give me a few days to hunt up my old E-bay picture host site and snap a few and I'll repost a note with the site name.
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