Here is the gadget. I see no reason why it wouldn't work, it is just listed as for the Powerstroke and I was wondering about installation procedures/instructions. Any help? Thanx!
Here the link for the 16.00 heater bypass. I did this to my truck back in the summer and it helped out a lot. I used the bypass part from auto zone then put a tee in the white vacum line under the pass.dash so it only works when the a/c switch is in the max postion. Also the bypass they use allows the coolent still flow through engine block where as some of the other don't.
If you do a search on "heater bypass" there is a member who used a 95 ranger heater valve & spliced in to the red vac. line. The hot water the goes back to the block & not thought the heater core when the a\c selector is set to A\C, Max, Vent, NO heat when set here even if you turn the temp. control, for heat you must select 1 of the options not listed above.
I did this and I like the results! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif[/img]
Search under username - " LOOK Repair For Hot Cab Vent Air" by superduper
Installation is a snap...takes all of 20 minutes. Spent most of the time choosing the best spot to splice the valve into. Do it with the a cold motor.
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2001 F250 XLT 4X2 CC LWB, PSD, BrightRed, LineX, Banks Turbo housing with Big Head, Banks 4" Monster Exhaust with SS MagnaFlow Muffler,AFE intake, Bill's Chip 45/70/100, Transmission by John Wood, AutoMeter Ultra Lite Gauges,SnugTop Shell, AIC with ITP bracket,TTM, ProComp 6" lift w/MX6 shocks,ProComp 305/70/16 on AR Chrome Baja's,Pioneer Premier CD &12 disc changer,XM tuner, Eclipse speakers, Fosgate sub,PCM Code NMC3. Big Red F250
I have'nt checked to see how cold the temp gets, but I can tell a big differance just by feeling the cold air comeing out of the vents,especially if your running down the interstate or if you leave it idleing and get back in on hot summerday mine will give you chills. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]
After looking at your pictures I took a look under the hood. I assume the hose is the one that runs from the core to the top of the right bank cylinder head. I didn't notice the return from the core (it's a little tight and I wasn't dressed for crawling around the engine this morning [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]).
I also guess guess blocking this line doesn't effect the flow of coolant. If I can't find a nice valve like yours I was thinking a CPVC ball valve from HD.
Correct. I unhooked the hose from the head and pulled it out. I installed the valve and ran a new piece of hose back to the cylinder head. This made the valve easy to get to, and I can put it back to stock easily if I wanted. This modification does make the A/C colder.
Very interesting idea. Gets real warm (hot) here in SE Texas in the summer. My question though is by doing this mod, do we run a risk of having the evaporator coil freeze up? Maybe the warm coolant flowing through the heater core is designed to moderate the temps near the evaporator to keep it from freezing up. I don't know, I'm not an HVAC specialist but I'm just curious if this could be a problem. If this mod keeps me cooler in the summer though without causing problems...trust me, I'm ALL for it!
Tejano
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2006 F-250 SD Lariat 4X4, 6.0 Liter, all stock
I installed a steam-rated ball valve (brass, I think, from HD) last summer. For summer operation, I closed the valve most of the way, but left it open just enough to let a bit of coolant circulate through the heater core.
This valve setting was subjectively determined by allowing for just the slightest increase in air temp from the dash registers with the temp contoller set at max heat.
What a difference this mod made! Last summer's western trip found us in Scottsbluff, NE where it was 113 degrees, but the modified AC, running on 'Normal' and not 'Max', kept our crewcab cool and comfy. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif[/img]
For winter operation, I've fully opened the valve. Everything seems to be working well.
HTH,
crewzer
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crewzer -- Y2K F250 SD 4X2 CC SB XLT 5.4LV8 AT 4.10LS
I'll second what crewzer said. I left the valve slightly opened so the antifreeze in the core wouldn't become stagnant. With the mod I never needed to turn the AC any higher than 'Normal'.
A dumb question - how does the temperature adjustment work in our trucks when we're running the AC? If the heater core is always hot, what does the temp knob regulate?
The temp knob controls a door that blends air coming direct from outside (or inside on Max AC) with the same air that has gone thru the heater core. When turned all the way cold, no air goes thru the heater core. But the core is so hot, it radiates heat into the box next door where the cool air goes thru and heats it somewhat.
__________________ 1991 F150 SC 4.9L ZF5 1991 SAE Bronco 5.0L E4OD 1993 F250 4x4 7.3L IDI NA E4OD
Linear Mode
