Has anyone heard of a TSB for the sticking idle air control valve problem? I'm taking my truck in for the seat belt recall fix and having them look at the ratteling right rear door, and occasional rough idle at cold start-up. I'd like to refer the service writer to a TSB number if there is one.
__________________ FOKISD Charter Member from Hillsboro, OHIO
'01 F-350, XL, SC, LWB, V-10, 4R100, 3.73 LS, High Back Buckets, TT Mirrors, Roof Lights, Camper Package - Check my Photo Gallery for modifications. Michelin LTX M/S on Mickey Thompson Classic II's, A.R.E. DCU cap, Reese Titan V and Draw-Tite front reciever, Audiovox cruise control, Wolf center console, Truck-Lite rear ID bar, Hella FF75 driving lights. Bilsteins on each corner.
I have never heard of a TSB but I know Ford has had problems with that valve. My 1999 had three trips to the dealer including a tow until I convinced them to change the valve. No error code shows up on the computer so they are reluctant to change the valve.
Good Luck
Rich
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2001 F-250 SD V10 5 Speed 4:30 LS EC SB Lariat
Harvest Gold Tinted Windows Banks Power Pack System
BBK 65mm Throttle Body Diablo Delta Chip Custom 1 inch Spacer
Yep, I just had mine replaced also about 1-month ago. Would cough/sputter first thing in the morning backing out of driveway and have vapor lock symptons on hot muggy days. No error codes showed up but the tech did note the valve was sticking and replaced. From what I had gathered on one of my ealier posts on this subject this seems to be common, especially with the V-10's....
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2009 F350 4x4 C.C./L.B.- 6.4 Auto...lots of options, more on the way
I have a 01 V-10 also. It has been in the shop 6 times for this warm-up cycle problem. I want to make sure we have the same problem. Does yours idle way down, to the point of almost dead. Mine sounds like it's only running on 5-6 cyl. Other times it will idle just real low. This only happpens when you first start up, after 15-40 seconds,and lasts for 10-20 seconds. Then will not do it again. After about 4-6 hours(off) it will do it again.
The last thing they (Ford) tried were new O2 sensors. They said the motor was lean but the O2's said rich. That's why new O2's.
Well, this did not work. I have a Banks (headers to tail pipe) kit. Now they do not want to work on it anymore, because of the Banks kit. The CRAPPY thing is they sell Banks, and now that they can't figure out whats REALLY wrong they won't work on it anymore.
If the A.I.C. works for you and this sounds like the same problem as yours, PLEASE let me know.
Im thinking of getting a lawyer and Lemon Law this thing. The sad thing is it's a small problem and my local Ford can figure it out.
When my IAC went bad, I could barely keep my truck running at all. I had to pump the accelerator to get it to start and at a stop I had to brake left footed while still applying some gas so it wouldn't stall. Service manager knew what it was as soon as I told him what was happening. Same day mine went in for replacement, they had 5 or 6 more. [img]images/icons/frown.gif[/img]
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Robb Wing from Cincinnati,Ohio FOKISDCharter Member/Founding President
99.5 F250SD XLT,4X4,CC,SB,SRW,V10,Auto,3.73LS,ESOF,Deep Wedgewood Blue,Swiss Cab-high Cap,Pioneer DEH-P7300,Alpine Amps,Infinity Sub,Street Scene Grill Inserts,full-chrome grill,Fumoto,SPA Gauges,Rancho 9000s w/remote & stabilizer,Heated/Lighted TT mirrors, Jordan Ultima 2020,TYC Elegante Tail Lights,Great Covers Endura Seat Covers,Auto Lock Underseat Drawer,Hella Micro DE Fogs,Full Chrome Front Bumper,PML Diff Cover, JAD Solutions LED running lights below doors,18" Harley Wheels,keypad,chrome tow hooks,leather steering wheel, PF 2-piece Rotors and "Z" pads in front - PS Cryo and Hawk LTS in rear,BANKS Stinger Plus,Banks TransCommand,GMT Transmission My Pics
I have also had this startup/sputtering problem just like some of you described. I had the IAC replaced and it did not help. I have a buddy who also has the same issue. I can reproduce this at will. Typically I park in my driveway when I get home from work. Then if I pull the truck into the garage at night and the start up the truck in the morning, it will experience the problem every time. Seems that the startup and short drive(30') into the driveway os the problem. This is really a pain, not to mention very embarrassing when my new $30,000 truck won't run.
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2003 F350 CC SWB, 315/75R16 BFG MTS, MB Motoring Wheels, X springs, Conn Ferr Shackles, Truxedo Tonneau, Stull Grill
Kevin 350 : Yep, it sure sounds as though we have the same symptoms. [img]images/icons/frown.gif[/img]
__________________ FOKISD Charter Member from Hillsboro, OHIO
'01 F-350, XL, SC, LWB, V-10, 4R100, 3.73 LS, High Back Buckets, TT Mirrors, Roof Lights, Camper Package - Check my Photo Gallery for modifications. Michelin LTX M/S on Mickey Thompson Classic II's, A.R.E. DCU cap, Reese Titan V and Draw-Tite front reciever, Audiovox cruise control, Wolf center console, Truck-Lite rear ID bar, Hella FF75 driving lights. Bilsteins on each corner.
Today, I had the "normal" [img]images/icons/crazy.gif[/img] warm up problem. This time I popped it out of gear, and gave it about half throttle. It ran up to 4000 rpm but would not stay up there. With my foot staying still it started falling off. More throttle, back up it would go, but not stay up. Looking at the tail pipe in the mirror, no black smoke [img]images/icons/crazy.gif[/img] It must be LEAN [img]images/icons/mad.gif[/img] I have talked to the wrench man,and he said the IWGO code pcm goes to closed loop in 10 seconds after start up [img]images/icons/shocked.gif[/img] This could be a very good reason why its falling off. The problem now, how do you get rid of this? Would a older pcm code help? Something that would let it stay in open loop longer to warm up?
Any thoughts- HELP!!
With overnight temps still in the upper 40s, I've had no problems with my truck (IWG0) yet. Starts and runs just fine. I have noticed that the idle is staying UP a few seconds longer than it did when it was 100+ out... nothing unexpected.
MNGuy-
Your problem almost sounds like a vapor-lock condition. From your past posts, I seem to remember that if you let the truck warm all the way up before driving that 30', it starts fine the next morning. Is that right?
Correct, if I start the truck up, let it run for a couple of minutes, then pull ahead that 30', the it will start in the morning. I have a buddy with a 2001 V10 that can reproduce the exact problem.
Mnguy
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2003 F350 CC SWB, 315/75R16 BFG MTS, MB Motoring Wheels, X springs, Conn Ferr Shackles, Truxedo Tonneau, Stull Grill
MNguy-
Does it have to be driven 30 feet or just run for xx seconds then shut off? If I can remember, I'll try it tonight.
Kevin 350-
As for early-morning idle, it's been getting a little cooler than I thought. Temps at night are in the low (vs high) 40s. Does your truck have the "California" emissions pkg?
No California crap here.
It will do it more in the warm weather, not cold. We had a weird warm couple of days (80-90 and only down to 50 at night).
I believe it to be a time temp problem. The truck will do it just setting there. Most of the time I jump in and go,so it would seem like a distances thing.
This is why I dont like the quick closed loop thing. Im going test with the fuel pressure regulator, see if I can pull the vacuum line off to boost pressure. If it's to lean before completely warmed up, this should help. I think [img]images/icons/crazy.gif[/img]
Well, I've had my first problem.. I drove the truck this morning and had it parked all day.. 12 hours later, I try to start it..
It revs to 1200 rpms as if it were starting normally, then just idles down to 0 rpms.
Once it idled down to around 200 rpms, smooth and quiet but bascially the truck won't idle there, and just stalls..
Having the 5sp made it interesting for the up-hill stoplights as I had to heel/tow with the clutch in to keep it running..
After about 20 miles on the highway, I pull into my driveway and the problem wasn't there..
As the truck only has 30k miles on it, I'll take it in and hope the dealership has a clue.. I feel that you all have given me one.
I had my truck worked on yesterday, seat belt buckles replaced per the recall.
As for the right rear supercab door rattling; the technician couldn't duplicate the problem but tightened the drivers door striker pin as the door seemed loose to him/her. Even thought they claimed not to have done anything, the RR door now is tight if shaken and the rattling has gone away. Must have been a case of FM (or not knowing your left from your right).
They couldn't verify the complaint about the occasional cold idle problem (no surprise there), found no problem codes stored (P1000 code found-apparently a code that means no prior service performed), and won't change the valve unless it indicates a failure. Trying to reason with the service writer about this being a common complaint (and solution) for this engine got me nowhere, so I'm hoping it gets more predictable as our temperatures start falling. The writer was advised that I'd be back to drop off this truck for as long as it took to diagnose and fix the problem (tying up their loaner vehicle in the process). Wish me luck. [img]images/icons/frown.gif[/img]
__________________ FOKISD Charter Member from Hillsboro, OHIO
'01 F-350, XL, SC, LWB, V-10, 4R100, 3.73 LS, High Back Buckets, TT Mirrors, Roof Lights, Camper Package - Check my Photo Gallery for modifications. Michelin LTX M/S on Mickey Thompson Classic II's, A.R.E. DCU cap, Reese Titan V and Draw-Tite front reciever, Audiovox cruise control, Wolf center console, Truck-Lite rear ID bar, Hella FF75 driving lights. Bilsteins on each corner.
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