Manual T-case hard to shift

[wldwilliam]

I posted this in the Drivetrain Forum but thought I'd post it here too just in case the PSD guys don't like the V10 in my sig line...

The subject pretty much sums it up. I have an automatic trans. I put her in neutral and tug away at the lever but nothin'...throw her in gear and roll a little, try it again...back up, try it again. Eventually I can get it in 4Hi, and with a little more difficulty, in 4Low but then have a heck-of-a-time getting it back out! I have had other manual t-cases and they have all been somewhat difficult or tempermental to get in and out of gear but this one is a bit more than I'm used to. Granted it's brand new and could probably use a few miles on her but are there any words of wisdom and guidance from other manual t-case users out there?? Please help. Thanks much.

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Bill McCall
ordered 07/15 - delivered 10/23:
'01 F250 XLT 4x4 CC Shortie V10 Auto 4.30LS SRW

[gossamar]

...My T-case was also a bit stiff when first used, but now has loosened up. The key is not to force, but gently tug back. I usually put truck in neutral vs park when engaging 4-low, seems to help a bit. If you are on a hard surface, like concrete, that will put some strain on the system making it more difficult to operate. You can also park in the garage and go through the motion of moving the lever to help get things loosened up. Give it a few miles and see what happens.

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Y2K 250 4x4 Island Blue XLT SB SC V-10 Auto 3:73LS every option except esof. goodies: BORLA exhaust, K/N filter, Jet performance chip, RHINO Liner, Husky Floor Liners

[SuperDave]

One little thing to look out for when playing the manual transfer case and the auto-tranny:

If you get in the trap where both the tranny and the case is in neutral and you can't get the case in either gear because it starts grinding because the transmission output shaft still spins slightly under no load even if in neutral and you can't get the tranny in park because it grinds the parking pawl because the output shaft is still spinning since the case is also in neutral, simply shut truck off, then move to park, then start it up and try again.

How would you get into this trap? By trying to put tranny in neutral to let it roll a bit to unload some of the drive-line tension in hopes to get transfer case into desired gear. (Usually 4low is where the difficulty appears)

Only a "characteristic" with the automatics.

Mine shifts easy from 2hi to 4hi (assuming hubs are already in lock first) but needs some coaxing sometimes for 4-low. Still like the manual, though, because once you get the hang of it for this particular truck, it's easy, quick, simple, and above all, reliable!




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WarWagon-1999 F250 XLT, SD, SC, SB, 4x4, V10, AUTO, Manual xfer case/hubs, 3.73 SRW Open-Axle.

[summitx]

I think you have to have it in Neutral and the brake pressed - Isn't there some kind of electronic lock?

Mine is stiff too, but if I fiddle with it enough, it goes in and out easy!

Maybe I should've re-phrased that

[robsd]

Superdave describes my old 150 to a T. between hi and lo, very easy. To get into low you had to yank on it a bit. Mine never loosened even after 11 years. I would use the t-case at least once a week to run through the gears and to lube the front seals. I never locked the hubs to do this. I always thought it was interesting to go down the road about 40mph in 4hi then slip it into 2hi and listen to how much noise and vibration went away.

I can't help you on a SD. I now just have to flip a switch. But to get it into low believe the procedure is put in park, depress brake pedal, then switch to 4lo.

Rob