Since this is my first SD and first Supercab, I don't know that my opinion counts, but here it is.
With only 1150 miles, there are a couple of rattles in the doors that I want to get fixed.
Strong braking on rough surfaces seems to cause the RABS to dis-engage which reduces overall stopping power- this must be a design flaw.
The flutter- it's embarrasing to drive down the road with a gas engine that sounds like a diesel.
There's a small "blob" of the stuff sprayed at the bottom of the body to protect from rock dings. Not even going to get it fixed since it would probably be worse than it is now.
Otherwise, it runs & looks great. Getting 10mpg running around town & 4 mile trip to work every day. Dragging the 5th-wheel drops mileage down to around 9mpg in strong OK winds. Overall, I'm pleased.
Just traded my 99 250 cc 4x4 5.4 for 01 350 cc 4x4 6.8 .New truck has much more comfortable seats(xlt),better stereo (6disc in dash),quieter suspension (so far).Had 44k on 99,liked it enough to buy a new one. Can't wait for the new 2003 model year.
I guess this could be divided into categories for Gas and Diesel but I was wondering what
your opinions are on the best model year so far. Not necessarily in regerds to options or
overall performance (although those do count) but mainly in regards to the least amount
of service or repair to date.
I have a 2000 V10 Supercab 2wd shortbed w/ auto and 4.30LS. I purchased it back in Dec.'99 and it now has 19,200 mi on it and I have had virtually no complaints about the
reliability of this truck. Here are the few I have had:
1) SES Light @ 1500mi led to bad PFE (emmisions) sensor. Warranty replaced same day. No trouble since.
2) Recently the cruise control and the O/D override switch ceased to function. Have yet
to resolve that issue. Not a real big deal yet.
3) Pass. side power window performs very poorly while going down. Actually both do but
pass side is real bad. Taking it the dealer (finally) for this. It just flat out seems like it's not going to make it all the way down. Boggs.
4) My last complaint is the oh so annoying V10 Exhaust Flutter. Sounds like a baby PSD.
If I had a PSD of course it wouldn't bother me. But I don't, so it does....tremendously.
Overall the quality and comfort of my '00 has been top notch in my opinion. Of course there
are always certain little personal ammentities that we all would like but that's not what I would judge the reliability or quality of the truck on.
I did however recently develop a concern regarding the quality of the stock front
suspension components. I barely caught the back bumper of an 84 Chevy Camaro with
the right front tire during a right hand turn. No part of the truck body itself came into contact with the other car just my 35x12.5x16.5 BFG Mud TA. I was going no faster than 5mph. That's even pushing it speed wise. Anyway, it bent the I-Beam, the spindle, the draglink, and the radius arm and bracket. I could hardly believe that an impact at such a slow speed could completely annihilate the front suspension like this. It was however easy to fix (did it myself) and parts were far less expensive than I had anticipated. I believe the price of the parts says a lot about the quality. I guess that just gives me an excuse to spend the money and upgrade to high quality/durable aftermarket offroad components he he.
This poll should be interesting if people participate. I for one am curious as to other
people's opinions. Thanks in advance folks.
"I have a 2000 V10 Supercab 2wd shortbed w/ auto and 4.30LS.
No part of the truck body itself came into contact with the other car just my 35x12.5x16.5 BFG Mud TA."
Hmmm. I thought that 33x12.5s were the largest tire I could run but if you're running 35x12.5s on a 2x4, shouldn't I be able to run them on my 4x4 with camper pack? Or did you lift yours? Can't wait to get rid of these General 235/85s.
" Anyway, it bent the I-Beam, the spindle, the draglink, and the radius arm and bracket."
Having dealt with this setup on my old Explorer for 8 years and 130,000 miles, I am sooo glad I don't have to change Radius Arm Bushings all the time (go to poly ASAP).
"I guess that just gives me an excuse to spend the money and upgrade to high quality/durable aftermarket offroad components he he."
I never tried it but spending the money for a lift kit that comes with longer radius arms will solve the bushing problem, give you a better ride, and increase the articulation of the front wheels.
BTW, I've only got about 3500 miles on my truck but love it so far.
1. G2 PSD gives us gassers a better option, should we choose to join the oil-burners. I'd rather put my $4k into something I'll get some $$ back on, rather than a blower for my V10 (sorry, Ricky). [img]/ubbthreads/images/icons/wink.gif[/img]
2. The new 'Torkfork' 5 speed auto.
3. None of 'em are out yet, so nothing has gone wrong.....
... yet. [img]/ubbthreads/images/icons/smirk.gif[/img]
I didn't like the pre '99s, under-powered, pre '01's were under-braked (drums on rear of all but Lariats, ABS was bad across the line).
Other than finicky trans, mine has been good.
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2001 F251 SRW Lariat CC 156 4x4, V10, 4R100 Auto (#3!), 3.73 LS, ESOF, BU sensors
OffRoad, Camper Pkg. Born, KTP: 08-01-00, Delivered: 8-29-00
SCMT, Volant intake, Gibson stainless cat-back exhaust, PML ALu trans pan and diff cover, Snuglid, 285x75R Geolandar AT II+, Edelbrock IAS shocks.
My truck hasn't been flawless but, it hasn't been too bad. I have 46000 miles on it and the list of problems have included: front spring squeak, IAC valve, loose baffle in the muffler, cruise control that only works when it feels like it, and passenger side window that doesn't care to work every once in a while. The dealer fixed the IAC valve under warranty and attempted to fix the spring squeak. I ended up just getting X springs after they started squeaking again after the warranty ran out. The rest of the problems have yet to be fixed. If you find out what's up with your cruise control, do please tell. Maybe the same thing is wrong with mine so then I could fix it. I kinda miss it. [img]/ubbthreads/images/icons/crazy.gif[/img]
The IAC and VSS sensors went bad around 25k miles and were quickly replaced under warranty.. When getting the IAC fixed (wouldn't idle), they said the MAF threw some codes too, and they replaced that..
I use my cruise control almost everyday with no problems, the power windows are perfect, and no spring squeaks (although I have the 4x2 which doesnt seem to have this problem). I'm also still on the origional Firestone tires and they seem to be wearing pretty even, rotating them every 10k, and the truck tracks straight. I've not had an alignment done yet. So I believe the front suspension components are pretty decent..
Well, I had a 99 F250 with the V10 and at 17,000 the syncro's went out other than that it was alright. Now my 2000 PSD is awesome! Its been a very dependable rig and taken every bit of abuse I've given it! 70,000 and counting! With hopefully many more mods to come! [img]/ubbthreads/images/icons/grin.gif[/img]
1999 F250 V10 Auto 3.73 axle ratio, 4x4, manual hubs and T-case.
Good truck overall, but it had some problems....
1) Replaced all rotors myself with NAPA ones due to nasty warpage on rear,
some warpage on front. Didn't mess with the dealer on this one. Just wanted to
do it once, do it myself, do it right. The brakes have been fine now.
2) Had a strange pop/ting noise when shifting from forward to reverse or from
reverse to foward. Took it to a good dealer. All they had to do was put some
metallic-locking compound on the output shaft splines of the T-case and then they
properly torqued the flange nut. No more noise since.
3) Had one small little oil leak out of driver-side valve cover grommet. Bought new grommet
myself and installed it. Very easy, only about $10.00 (Replaced both grommets) No leak.
Seemed like a bad batch of rubber compound since the leaky grommets simply had big
splits in them.
4) Fixed the exhaust flutter myself by bending tranny plate away from tranny a bit. Also
removed exhaust system shields. No flutter at all now.
5) Original tape player broke. Tossed it out and put a CD-player in instead.
6) Played around with driver-side doors to get optimal open-close alignment. (Super-cab)
7) Interior lights sometimes got stuck on even when doors were fully shut. Sprayed some
WD-40 into sensing switch....haven't seen the problem since.
8) Really squeeky/groany front springs. Took it to dealer once. They replaced the two link bars for
the torsion bar. Worked great for a while. Then, noises came back. For the groaning, I took out
the isolator tips and injected synthetic grease into small holes to "impregnate" them with grease.
Put them back and no groaning at all now. Still squeeks a little bit, but no-where near as bad as
it was originally....I think the squeek hais comming from the link bars again. Oh well..it's not near
as bad as it was. I'm just happy the groaning is gone...man, that was loud!
Other than these little annoyances (except for the brakes and the flutter which really
torqued me off) this has been my highest-quality American vehicle. The motor runs really
smooth and quiet and is sealed up very well. No more crappy half-seals, cork-gaskets,
or other junk like that.
I've got 58,000 miles on it now. Not a single leak except for the little one noted above. I plan on
keeping this truck for a long time. It's well cared for and well treated... Except for an occasional
hot-rod burst of full throttle .... [img]/ubbthreads/images/icons/smile.gif[/img] Overall, nicely engineered and built compared to things of the past.
Great smooth highway cruiser, and pulls my little camper and ATV just fine. Does good off-road also
(for a vehicle of this size and type).
Just thought I'd update everyone on my cruise control. I got a copy of the pin point trouble shooting list and went down the list trying to find the problem. You have to disconnect the connector at the cruise control servo and do many of the tests there. Well, I did that and I couldn't find anything wrong so, I hooked it back up and the things been working perfectly for the last week now. Maybe I just had a loose connection or something? A couple years ago I was having problems with my hubs not engaging and disengaging and I found the problem to be a loose connector at the solonoid to control the vacuum. Might be something to add to your list of things to check if you start having problems since it seems to be a common problem, at least on my truck. [img]/ubbthreads/images/icons/mad.gif[/img]