Is there a maintence proceedure for changing the V10 sparkplugs posted anywhere? Would I need to do that (or should do it) on a 1998 V10 that has less than 65K miles?
Yes. Do a Search on the "v10" forum on ford-trucks.com There is a detailed procedure along with tips and tricks from those of us who have already done it. Make sure to have a torque wrench available as the torque (14 ft lbs) is critical to avoid stripping the threads out of the head.
I just changed mine out a week ago and while it wasn't a cakewalk, it wasn't nearly as bad as some would lead you to believe. Mine were in for 97,000 miles and really didn't look or gap too bad for that kind of mileage. As you'd assume from looking under the hood, number's 4 and 5 are the toughest to get at. It's alot easier if you first remove the intake all the way to the throttle body, the throttle and cruise comtrol cables, and a few other odds and ends that will become evident when you're in there. You may also want to replace the coil boots while you're in there. Took about 3 1/2 hours working slow and steady. More than half of that time was getting up and down from the engine bay. It would be much quicker if you had a helper to apply the anti-sieze and dielectric grease to the plugs and coil boots, and hand you everything as you lay in the engine bay. I'm guessing that now I could probably knock out a set in under two hours easy. Have fun and post questions.
They're $3 each from Napa or anywhere else, and the extra $30 is just extra insurance against a problem later.
Use dialectric grease about the tip of the boot, and I put some where the boot slips onto the coil. I also put it around the seal area where it seals against the head.
Other than that, no special tricks. Just blow out the holes with compressed air first, loosen plugs 1/2-1 turn, then blow it out again. Use anti-sieze on the plug threads.
$3 at Napa for the boots? I just tore one as I was changing the plugs this past weekend (no grease from the factory?) and Napa and Schucks both told me they don't stock them - dealer item they tell me. I ended up paying $12 with tax at the dealer for a single boot! I guess I'll have to call a different Napa next time.
I didn't change any boots except the one that tore. I did have a couple others stick after ripping that first one. The trick to getting them off without tearing is to seperate the coil from the boot if it's stuck. The coil will come off and then you can stick a long flat blade screwdriver down into the boot and break it loose from the plug.
BTW, I only have 55k on the odo but the truck is running really rough and I figured that while I was pulling each plug to check for fouling/lack of spark I might as well change them. The plugs were all fine and replacing them didn't fix my rough running [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif[/img] More troubleshooting to come [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif[/img]
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The NAPA computer listing does not list some of the applications that use the boots, but they are available. Around 3-4 dollars without center spring and about 8 dollars with. This is in the Belden brand. They are also available in the NAPA Echlin brand also. Most dealers will offer in one brand only
FORD says do NOT use anti-sieze on these plug threads! It will change the torque reading of the install. I know, I know it goes against common wisdom to go without on a steel surface on aluminum, but this whole spark plug issue is far from normal to begin with.
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FORD says do NOT use anti-sieze on these plug threads! It will change the torque reading of the install. I know, I know it goes against common wisdom to go without on a steel surface on aluminum, but this whole spark plug issue is far from normal to begin with.
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You are absolutely 100% correct!
DO NOT use any form of lubricant or anti-sieze on these plugs!
The FACTORY plugs are Ni coated to prevent galling or corrosion, so there is no need for it anyway.
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