Upgrades and Aftermarket - 6.0L EngineUpgrading or adding OEM or aftermarket equipment to your 2003-Up Super Duty or Excursion with 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.
OK, reading the instructions they tell me I will need a universal joint for the torque wrench. From what I can read about a universal joint, the torque will not read accurate. What to do?
Not to worry. It will not be accurate, but keep the universal joint as straight as possible and it will be close. It will be slightly under-torqued so check in a week or so to make sure it hasn't come loose. Better to under-torque then to strip or break off a bolt.
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White 06 F350 Lariet CC 2WD DRW Tow Boss, Timbren SES, Smiths Ultimate Bedliner, RK Tool Box, CondensorGuard, IntakeMod, S&B Intake, SEIC, Banks 4"TB w/cat, Accufab, Edge Platinum/w Evo Trans Tune, Harpoon Mod, Coolant Filter, Glove Box Light, Hood Insulator, Rewired Mirror Heat, Seat Heater Indicator.
I found the hardest part was getting the plastic pipe off the stock elbow and onto the new one. If anyone's got a tip for that task it would be useful to anyone preparign for this install. I was finally able to win out with brute force.
I torqued the elbow down in a cross pattern and snugged it up "valvecover tight". I checked it a week later and it hadn't loosened. It's been about 10,000 miles and no problems.
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'06 F250 4x4 - 5" Flo Pro exhaust, SB Filter intake, Accufab elbow, Edge Evolution (monitoring only), SCT w/ Innovative Diesel custom tune, FASS 195 pump, 14.2 @ 94MPH on a 1.91 60ft - Eric swears it'll run 13s with the new tune, but haven't made it to the track yet
'02 WRX - Outback rear disc swap, EBC green pads, pillar vane front rotors, TXS UP, TXS TBE, TXS TMIC, Perrin lightweight crank pulley, PPG billet steel shift forks, ACT Streetlite flywheel and clutch kit, K&N filter, STi Group N motor/tranny mounts, TiC/Kartboy rear diff mounts/subframe lock bolts/outrigger stiffeners, Kartboy SS & all shifter bushings, custom PDX tune loaded via Cobb AP - went 14.1 on a terrible 60ft before most of these mods; shooting for 13.50s
'87 K5 Blazer - undergoing major rehab, 383 (Edelbrock heads, Crane roller valvetrain, many tricks), Pro-Built 700R4, 2400 converter, NP208, 10-bolts (4.88s, ARB front, Detroit rear, 4340 shafts, full float rear), 4-wheel discs
I cranked on one after running the engine for awhile and it promptly disintegrated about 1/16" above the manifold. Drilled part of it out, then into the threads [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif[/img]. Had to get it towed and repaired by Ford. That was a fun $400.
GnT will do just fine.
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2006 F-350 172" WB (crew cab) 4x4 Lariat White
MBRP 4" "Cool Duals"
SCT from ID - Tow Aggressive, Street and Xtreme Street
Anvil II train horn and air system by Siege Engineering
Autometer gauges (EGT, Trans, Boost)
Intake elbow
3.73s
I should probably add how mine ended up: I used a torque wrench and was following the 23 ft# instructions. At 18 ft# one of the bolts started to strip. I backed it off but could see 2 lines of alloy in the threads. I hand tightened the others and snugged up the wounded bolt best I could. Seems to be holding. I might have a local speed shop do a plug at a later date. Live and learn...
I was afraid I might do just that, but so far I haven't. I've taken it off and re-installed it because I wasn't sure how the dealer would react to it when I took it in for a check engine light.
I broke one of the bolts while torqueing the intake elbow to 20 ft-lbs. I was being extremely careful because you are bolting to aluminum which strips super easy. I was able to pull the elbow again and remove the bolt. I bought four new bolts and tightened them to what I would consider way under 23 ft-lbs. I sprayed water around the seal to check for leaks so far so good. Thanks for the hair dryer tip.
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