Change-over to ARP studs

[ImSoAmish]

I'm buying SCT X3 and would like to do my ARP stud changeover myself. I do not have any head gasket problems and would prefer not changing them since they are not leaking. I read one reply to an ARP and Head gasket job posting that if you do not have a leaking head gasket, you can just replace the head bolts one at a time with the ARP bolts. Assuming that everything is torqued up per ARP instructions does this sound correct? If it can be done this way what are the obstacles I need to be aware of?

[ImSoAmish]

Bump.. Anyone done this?

[Justin C.]

I've seen a few people post that they've done this and it seemed to work ok. They just replaced one bolt at a time. The biggest problem is that it's a major pain to get at the heads/bolts with the cab on.

Justin

[ImSoAmish]

Is the changeover to the ARP studs initially suggested or required since I'm only planning on using the three SCT X3 stock tunes? Anyone know what the H.P. increases are on those three tunes?

[sawed off]

Good Question! Bump!

[Justin C.]

Originally Posted by ImSoAmish

Is the changeover to the ARP studs initially suggested or required since I'm only planning on using the three SCT X3 stock tunes? Anyone know what the H.P. increases are on those three tunes?

The 6.0 is prone to blow gaskets while stock, so any power increase isn't going to help. It's not required, but eventually you will need them, it's more of a now or later thing.

Justin

[Chuckdogg6.0]

Im going to chime in here im in the same boat as amish. I say im not going to race the truck but who knows whats goin to happen ive have no gasket problems YET. But i see someone chimed in and said w.o removing the cab? Is is possibile at all? If so then **** ill do the studs myself insted of paying someone 1600bucks to do it, thats what i was quoted. Sound like a decent price?

[ImSoAmish]

The only odd thing I've read was something about someone using rubber bands to keep the studs in the back from falling. Possibly when the head was slid into place? I'm not sure if that implies that they could not drop the studs in under the cowling region after the head was in position or what.

[Justin C.]

You can do it without removing the cab, but it's a major pain. Got to strip it underneath the hood. If you have the means to lift the cab, it is much easier.

Justin

[Chuckdogg6.0]

Sounds like i gotta take the cab off....dammit! more money

[expertrider]

You're not going to be able to replace the bolt with the studs on the back couple of bolts.
Some guys have done a stud job with out pulling the cab, but they always pull the heads and insert the ARP's (held in place with rubber bands) and then replace the heads with new gaskets.
You might be able to just lift the cab a little bit (about 10" or so)
It's only 6 bolts and a few other pieces (steering column, radiator hoses, etc...) The major stuff might be able to stay connected if you just lift a little (like the A/C, the wire harnesses, etc...)

The guy that just did my studs had the cab in the air in under an hour!
It sure looked easy by pulling the cab. I can't imagine doing it any other way!

[ImSoAmish]

The guy that just did my studs had the cab in the air in under an hour!

Was that done with a vehicle lift or floor jacks and cribbing like I would have to do?

You might be able to just lift the cab a little bit (about 10" or so)

Sounds like one of those topside creepers would be a must have to get over the fenders and down to the heads.

[Chuckdogg6.0]

Anyone know anyone is the maryland area that can do studs?