Runs great.
Had Ed rework the FICM with a small tune.
Every now and then it puffs a great deal of white smoke then stops.
Just replaced the EGR valve (the old one was caked pretty bad and a bit moist).
Had to fill up the coolant a couple times.
On start it blows just a touch of white smoke which appears to be vapor.
So I have read a lot on here and believe the Oil cooler and EGR need to be replaced. Thinking about the EGR delete...
I tackled the HPOP in my other truck last year with help from you all and wasn't bad but very time consuming for me. I am thinking of getting someone else to go this job.
They have priced me about $1700 for the EGR delete and Oil cooler replacement or $3800 for that plus heads shaved, gaskets, and studs. Would you recommend just doing it all? Is that a fair price?
I hooked up the laptop today with Auto Enginuity and the EOT read 201 while the ECT read 177. That seems to confirm my suspicions on the Oil cooler. Thoughts?
What questions should I ask them before committing to the job?
I left the truck parked nose up for the last week to keep water out of the bed while sitting.
Drove it last night down the interstate about 15 miles both ways to record on the laptop and never saw any smoke and the truck ran perfect except for the numbers on the EOT and ECT.
It sure sounds like you are on the right track. The one thing I will mention is there is a reasonable chance the heads are pooched. These heads really like to crack, not just warp. Even if not cracked, there is very little you can safely shave off of them. So if I were you, I would have a "plan B' in mind factoring in heads before you give them the OK to tear into it so there are no surprises. Make sure the heads get checked for cracks before authorizing cutting them.
As far as cost, I'm really not sure what is good or bad, others may chime in on that.
Thank you all for the replies and opinions...makes me feel so much better when dumping $3800 for the work and a little more for gauges.
Guess I'll take it on up there and hope for the best.
Just make sure they understand how far they are authorized to go without talking to you first. I hate shops that say they'll call when they know more about what needs fixing but the first call you get from them is "It's all ready, come and get it...oh and we had to replace the heads and 8 injectors"
i had the same symptoms,it was a clogged oil cooler and cracked egr cooler, no problem with the stock head gaskets and bolts and its been 25,000 miles now no issues, sept a radiator cracked and replaced it along with the water pump
Your truck is about 16years old. Your motor probably has 150k to 200k. Dear sir, your motor (block and heads) are barely breaking a sweat. You've only now broken your motor in and suspect warped heads? Your white smoke is probably just condensation dude!!! I bet your cooler snd screen need a cleaning!!! Throw some seafoam in your oil and fuel and see if the problem persists.
Not True in the least, egr cooler can and will leak water directly thru the exhaust system thru the EGR path, and NO water will enter your oil system at all
And also, your diesel/water seperater may just be letting water pass, and thats why you only see a puff at startup and shutdown. If you had a major problem, white smoke would be more constant
Again not true if you have that much water in your fuel system you will have a no start issue and more problems, what happens is water seeps out the EGR cooler thru a hairline crack after you have driven it a while, as it cools down the crack is open, when it completely cools off for instance sitting all day or night, the crack closes back up, so when you start it you get white smoke for a minute or 2 and it disappears until the process happens again,
So when you have a cracked EGR cooler it gets a very slow leak as you are driving and up to temp, but you will notice NO smoke at this time, it is when you park it after a trip and the pressure in the cooling system bleeds thru the small hairline crack in the egr cooler, so now you have a small puddle of water in the EGR system- then as the motor cools the crack in the egr cooler seals back up, when you go to start it the water heads down the egr system goes thru the exhaust system and burns up making a Mosquito killer out the tail pipe for a minute or 2 then clears up
I agree. Sry. For some reason i was thinking oil cooler. But he's right your egr is where exhaust and coolent meet. If there is a fracture in your egr there will be some steam at start and shut down. I suggest egr delete or new egr.
And actually, if there is too much water passing your seperator. your truck will start and shut down with a puff of white smoke. I own an 05 that puffed when i bought it until i blead the water out of the diesel.
Here's the update. I got the truck back this past Friday. They were within 40 bucks on the quoted price which I don't think was bad compared to some others I've seen.
They did the EGR delete (advised it was blown or at least compromised), oil cooler, truck already had the upgraded HPOP fitting, installed ARP head studs, sent the heads to the machine shop for checking/truing, replace heads gaskets, and installed the Blue Spring upgrade.
So, EGR blown and head gasket(s) blown was the verdict. Honestly, in my opinion I believe it was mainly just the EGR and the blown head gaskets are written on each receipt where they do a replacement. Not a big deal, but the reason I say this is buddy's who have gotten the job done have the same thing diagnosis written on their receipt when they had no problems or symtoms to begin with.
So far so good. I had towed it up the mountain to the shop about 80 minutes away. Drove it back with no issues except for a hot caliper.
Now lifting it up to replace the calipers and pads tonight. (One seems to be sticking).
Nah, got the wheel and caliper off on a 15 minute break...should finish it up fairly quickly after work.
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