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Upgrades and Aftermarket - 6.0L Engine Upgrading or adding OEM or aftermarket equipment to your 2003-Up Super Duty or Excursion with 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.

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Old 03-11-2010, 04:18 PM   #16 (permalink)
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I think that lubbockguy1979 is giving some good information.

There is a lot of plastic fittings that will not handle high temps for a long period. I have worked in Plastic Injection and know about some of the plastics used. I did look at some hose barb fittings at Tractor Supply and thought they would not hold up to the long exposure to the heat of the coolant. When I found the PE fittings I knew that these would hold up without any problems. I wanted to stay away from the brass due to the weight and the vibration from the motor. I think that the HELP fitting above would be a good item to used because it is made the same as other plastic items in other cooling systems. This is a plastic that has fiberglass strands in it. I wish I could have found it first and just used 3/8" fuel line hose.
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Old 03-12-2010, 12:23 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Lab testing vs real world is totally different. Out trucks commonly see 180+*. I personally as a licensewd plumber have seen a lot of those fittings fail in less than 10yr on hot and cold water lines at a lot lower temps than 180* more around 140-150* @30-60psi. In most residential applications vibration is not a issue where it would be in a vehicle. I guess from my exp I wouldn't use plastic barbed fitting designed for plumbing on my coolant system. Now the automotive parts I have no clue on how they stack up.
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Old 03-12-2010, 09:52 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by lubbockguy1979 View Post
I guess from my exp I wouldn't use plastic barbed fitting designed for plumbing on my coolant system. Now the automotive parts I have no clue on how they stack up.
If you want some heater hose tees, all you have to do is step up to the parts counter of any decent auto parts store and tell them you need a heater hose tee. They will bring you a Gates or Dayco assortment and let you pick the size you need.
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Old 03-12-2010, 09:54 AM   #19 (permalink)
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I am more confused about the whole "Bypass" deal.

The hose that is being Tapped into is for the Heater. If you run ANY Coolant Filter Kit the filter will not see much flow unless the A\C is set to Max. I guess that is the reason my first filter clogged up so fast. Plus the Wix Filter Specs has the fuel filter at 10 Microns and a Wix Coolant filter at 27 microns. I was thinking of getting a Filter Base and a Wix Coolant filter and find a 3/4 U shaped Heater Hose and a 2 foot section 3/4 of Heater Hose. Remove the hose from between the pipe under the alternator bracket and the Vacuum Control Valve. When the filter gets clogged, you would have less heat and you would know when it needs changing.
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Old 03-12-2010, 01:09 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Made some pictures of the Temps from a IR Gauge.

Coolant Filter pictures by DunDoneIt - Photobucket

Right side of Radiator 150 Degrees
Left side of Radiator 158 Degrees
Metal Tube near Alternator 179 Degrees
PE Tee 153 Degrees
Fuel Filter 147 Degrees
Tee from Filter to Degass Tank 153 Degrees
Degass Tank 157 Degrees

This was with motor still at idle after a couple of 0-60 burst. Had been driving about 20 minutes with a Spartan tune Aggressive Street Economy 130HP.
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Old 03-13-2010, 10:47 AM   #21 (permalink)
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I am more confused about the whole "Bypass" deal.

The hose that is being Tapped into is for the Heater. If you run ANY Coolant Filter Kit the filter will not see much flow unless the A\C is set to Max. I guess that is the reason my first filter clogged up so fast. Plus the Wix Filter Specs has the fuel filter at 10 Microns and a Wix Coolant filter at 27 microns. I was thinking of getting a Filter Base and a Wix Coolant filter and find a 3/4 U shaped Heater Hose and a 2 foot section 3/4 of Heater Hose. Remove the hose from between the pipe under the alternator bracket and the Vacuum Control Valve. When the filter gets clogged, you would have less heat and you would know when it needs changing.
You are not correct in your statement that the heater needs to be on max to get the flow thru the coolant filter. It is called a "bypass" system because if installed per instructions the coolant bypasses the heater control valve, allowing a good flow thru the filter. Your filter probably plugged up so fast due to the small micron rating.
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Old 05-02-2010, 02:13 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Thought I would update the Mileage on my second Filter. I have gone past 24,000 miles now, that's over 2,000 now on second filter. It is still flowing like new. I also have towed my 5th at at combined weight of 19,860 lbs. With the ScanGaugeII I had a high of 212 on the Oil Temp but the Water Temp was at 204 at the same time. I guess mine did not have much sand in it or I have not put enough miles to get any sand loose enough to clog the system.

If I had it to do over again I would just use the HELP Tee and 3/8" fuel hose.
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Old 05-17-2010, 08:56 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Hi there just becarefull using the help 3/4x3/4x3/8 tee. I was using that tee when I added a quart of vc8 additive. With in a week of adding the vc8 the tee collapsed,and started leaking. Going to brass.
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Old 05-17-2010, 11:59 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Wonder why the VC8 would affect that coolant rated T and not the other plastic parts in the cooling system. Would the VC8 react with the brass. I am still looking for a filter I can put inline that would be light enough, small enough and that would not restrict flow. It does not take much to stop flow since the water pump does not produce much head pressure.
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Old 05-18-2010, 12:54 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Don't Know if you have the VC's mixed up. VC-8 Should not be used in the 6.0. It was an additive for the 7.3. The 6.0 use the Gold Coolant that does not need VC-8. VC-9 is a cooling system cleaner that might cause some problems but remember the the Radiator itself is plastic along with other connectors on the Motor.
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Old 05-21-2010, 09:24 PM   #26 (permalink)
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cut apart filter

Filter after 4500 miles. Was stopped completely with rusty, gritty, gunk.
Attached Thumbnails
easy coolant filter-filter.jpg   easy coolant filter-filter2.jpg   easy coolant filter-filter3.jpg   easy coolant filter-filter4.jpg  
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Old 09-17-2010, 04:24 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Any updates or anyone cut their filter open. I think I'll do this mod too.
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Old 09-17-2010, 08:07 PM   #28 (permalink)
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I used those plastic tee's for my diy-coolant filter for my '98 Dodge Ram 5,9 gas engine. The plastic broke with only about 2000 miles on it. Never again.

If you're going to add a coolant filter to your 6.0, do it right. I'll think you'll find that putting it together yourself doesn't save any money and it sure as heck doesn't save you any time. The other upside is that all the parts will work, unlike that plastic crap.

Al
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